VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 15, 2014 22:10:54 GMT
It looked like it was coming from the air hole ??? Was it flooding past the o-ring up to the deck ??? Tried a nickel build on a single mesh wick just for the hell of it on one of mine and it was stable from the off. I must've been lucky or my Attie has better threading ??? Very reluctant to disturb the bugga now It was from the lower side of the tank, I had left it in a stand for an hour or two. I put the thinner o'ring below the tank and got a slightly thicker one from my selection for the top of the tank. I wouldn't disturb it either and if you do take the deck out watch out for the small o'ring at the bottom of the pillar as after the first time mine wasn't seated correctly.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Dec 15, 2014 22:15:32 GMT
It looked like it was coming from the air hole ??? Was it flooding past the o-ring up to the deck ??? Tried a nickel build on a single mesh wick just for the hell of it on one of mine and it was stable from the off. I must've been lucky or my Attie has better threading ??? Very reluctant to disturb the bugga now It was from the lower side of the tank, I had left it in a stand for an hour or two. I put the thinner o'ring below the tank and got a slightly thicker one from my selection for the top of the tank. I wouldn't disturb it either and if you do take the deck out watch out for the small o'ring at the bottom of the pillar as after the first time mine wasn't seated correctly. Yeah, that was a bugga. That o-ring kept moving when I reassembled after cleaning the Attie before first use. I lubed it with juice and I thought that was the reason
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2014 23:06:59 GMT
I've spent the evening with the new vaporshark nautilus temperature sensing coils, the ohms on the ones I have are .4 which is a lot more than the coils I make on my atties -usually they're between .11 & .19 but at .4 they are doing a pretty grand job there are 0.2ohm coils available judging by the check boxes on the side of the packet. Filled with my beloved cocomel I've been through a couple of tanks and this thing hasn't missed a beat- to make sure that it wasn't a fluke coil I fitted another and it's performing exactly the same. Set to 400 on the temp cos cocomel doesn't like being too warm and run at between 12 & 14w I'm finding it a superb vape. Quite impressed, if you have a dna40 and you have a nautilus then you really should give one a go- faff free dna temp sensing at its simplest I've also spent the day with a 0.3ohm head in my mini. I'm trying them see if I can identify if my problems are related to my coils or the board. The coil registered 0.35 ohms when fitted but I didn't get a "new coil" prompt, in fact I tried to rest it by removing, firing and refitting the mini on numerous occasion and I haven't had that prompt once. It vaped ok at 11w - 420f for about 0.5 -0.75ml of juice during which time the resistance dropped to 0.31hms. The vape got thin in both vapour and flavour, this was because the TP cut in as soon as I took a drag, so I was effectively vaping at 5 -7ww I gradually increased the temp but it wasn't until I got to 500f that I could maintain a steady 11w through a drag, up to then TP still cut in to strangle the vape. At 500f I was getting a similar vape as I do with kanthal without TC. 500F would certainly burn cotton! Maybe my juice is gunking the coil and changing the resistance and so giving a false temp, hence having to keep upping it? I have to hold my hand up and admit that some of the issues I've had have been down to my coil building, I've got that sorted now, no jumping form TC to V but I experience the same inconsistent vape with them as the mini head, I think that with all the hype my expectations for the DNA40 were high, maybe too high and it's working as it should, but I prefer to turn the TC off and set the power as I get a better vape and less faff. Maybe TC/Nickel is just not for me.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Dec 16, 2014 7:19:20 GMT
I've spent the evening with the new vaporshark nautilus temperature sensing coils, the ohms on the ones I have are .4 which is a lot more than the coils I make on my atties -usually they're between .11 & .19 but at .4 they are doing a pretty grand job there are 0.2ohm coils available judging by the check boxes on the side of the packet. Filled with my beloved cocomel I've been through a couple of tanks and this thing hasn't missed a beat- to make sure that it wasn't a fluke coil I fitted another and it's performing exactly the same. Set to 400 on the temp cos cocomel doesn't like being too warm and run at between 12 & 14w I'm finding it a superb vape. Quite impressed, if you have a dna40 and you have a nautilus then you really should give one a go- faff free dna temp sensing at its simplest I've also spent the day with a 0.3ohm head in my mini. I'm trying them see if I can identify if my problems are related to my coils or the board. The coil registered 0.35 ohms when fitted but I didn't get a "new coil" prompt, in fact I tried to rest it by removing, firing and refitting the mini on numerous occasion and I haven't had that prompt once. It vaped ok at 11w - 420f for about 0.5 -0.75ml of juice during which time the resistance dropped to 0.31hms. The vape got thin in both vapour and flavour, this was because the TP cut in as soon as I took a drag, so I was effectively vaping at 5 -7ww I gradually increased the temp but it wasn't until I got to 500f that I could maintain a steady 11w through a drag, up to then TP still cut in to strangle the vape. At 500f I was getting a similar vape as I do with kanthal without TC. 500F would certainly burn cotton! Maybe my juice is gunking the coil and changing the resistance and so giving a false temp, hence having to keep upping it? I have to hold my hand up and admit that some of the issues I've had have been down to my coil building, I've got that sorted now, no jumping form TC to V but I experience the same inconsistent vape with them as the mini head, I think that with all the hype my expectations for the DNA40 were high, maybe too high and it's working as it should, but I prefer to turn the TC off and set the power as I get a better vape and less faff. Maybe TC/Nickel is just not for me. You don't get the new coil query if the DNA knows its dealing with a new coil, only if it doesn't know. The resistance on my coils for this nauti dropped to 3.4ohms during use and bedding in and that's what they're displaying this morning.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2014 8:35:35 GMT
Makes sense blakey Cheers for that.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 16, 2014 12:11:24 GMT
@scooby I have found that if the resistance is reading higher than expected when you first put your atty on there is a connection problem and there is no point going on until you resolve it, another sign is the resistance lowering when you fire it. I had a bad clone atty recently that needed a couple of modifications to get the resistance to what it should have been cold.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2014 13:46:46 GMT
@scooby I have found that if the resistance is reading higher than expected when you first put your atty on there is a connection problem and there is no point going on until you resolve it, another sign is the resistance lowering when you fire it. I had a bad clone atty recently that needed a couple of modifications to get the resistance to what it should have been cold. I expect a rock steady resistance reading once set as that's the datum point for TC. I was getting fluctuating readings with my coils to start with and that really messed with the TC. I seem to have resolved that by being more meticulous. The drop in use I mentioned was with the pre-built head for the Nautilus Mini. I only vape tobacco and in the main coil gunking HoL juice, I think the gunk is messing with the TC, that's what's causing the gradual drop in performance after a promising start when the coil is new. Anyway I think I'm resigned to putting this one down to experience, I can't with complete certainty say the board has a fault, and I don't think it worth the potential expense of sending it back and no fault is found, although I still have the option to do that within the warranty. I can use up my nickel wire with the TC off, and there's always kanthal so all is not lost, just a shame it didn’t live up to my expectations.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 16, 2014 16:42:07 GMT
@scooby some attires are worse than others as I said that ChiOrigenny clone was a nightmare, the Orchid is a challenge with thin wire and I hear the Rose & Squape can both be a PITA so it maybe the atty more than you. Only other tips are to clean both sides of the 510, the battery & terminals and to check the coil screws are tight when you rewick (I only vape tobaccos and normally change cotton/rayon wicks with every tank of liquid, sometimes I got two tanks).
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2014 17:17:55 GMT
VapingBad yes, the Spheriod can be a pita. Built a coil that wasn't recognised as nickel but worked in volt mode, the very smallest of turn on the base of the atty and it went into TC mode, may have been a poor internal poor connection. I won't give up completely, i appreciate your help and will bear in mind your very useful tips and advice, Cheers.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Dec 17, 2014 14:20:41 GMT
Ok- reporting in on day 3 with these nautilus coils and I'm happy to say that they haven't missed a beat The only problem I've had was a little resistance fluctuation earlier today on one of the nautiluses, resolved by removing the head and thoroughly cleaning out the base of the attie- something I never did before I first fitted the head so not the fault of the head or the coil within Refitted the head and back to perfect performance.
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Post by blakey on Dec 19, 2014 15:32:12 GMT
Reporting on day 5 with these coils and now I'm pleasantly surprised I would consign a coil to the bin or the re-coiling queue on day 4 using Cocomel and day 3 using vanilla slice Both of these temperature control heads are still going strong after 5 days, I've been using nothing else all day at work and they are showing no signs of dropping off yet Will be stocking up on a few of these heads methinks
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2014 15:40:41 GMT
I've had a downer on the rDNA40 for the best part of the 4 weeks I've owned it. I got over poor NI wire, thought I'd perfected my coil building, checked every connection from the battery terminals to the posts, tried different coil and wick configurations and it still vaped like sh1te. I was beating myself up about my coil building technique and inability to build a decent one, or rid myself of hot spot or shorts. Why was TP cutting the power and spoiling the vape? The vape from a premade 0.3ohm coil in a mini nautilus behaved the same as my own builds, little consolation as it was still a sh1te vape "it working correctly, that's what it's supposed to do, cut the power when the set temp is reached" they said. So why did I have to set an abnormally high temp or even turn it off to get a decent vape? The penny dropped when I read a post by VapingBad Juice flow cools the coil but so does airflow My Spheroids have a tight draw which I like, all my AFC equipped atties were set similarly and there was just not enough air cooling the coil, so the power was cut with the resulting degrading effect on the quality of the vape. With the airflow just about fully open the Squape R is a revelation, I get the flavour burst from the preheat and for the first time I can set a low/moderate temp for good flavour and maintain a steady power output to the coil. Because of the very airy draw the way I was vaping seemed alien to me, but a couple of days in and it's second nature. 'Sometimes vaping is like a conjurers slight of hand trick in that it's too easy to focus on the part of the problem that isn't' I'll remember that quote VapingBad DNA40 issues resolved
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Post by blakey on Dec 31, 2014 16:32:01 GMT
Final update on them vshark nautilus coils, I changed them both after 9 days 9 days is plenty surprising considering I'd be changing a standard coil after 3-4days I'm also noticing that my nickel builds on my rebuildables are working longer than standard builds, I think temperature control slows the gunking effect considerably. I'll be a happy bugga when China adopts this technology and starts making temp controlled e-grips
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 31, 2014 17:05:05 GMT
Good to hear you got it sorted @scooby. I find much slower gunking to blakey, it just goes to show that we were overheating before and didn't know it. We probably vaped the coil surface dry more often in the past. Are you going to re-wick or re-coil those heads?
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davetherayon
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Post by davetherayon on Dec 31, 2014 17:57:18 GMT
Still getting variable results, down to coil builiding. Ofttimes a weakening draw is fixed simply by tightening in the coil (Squape is super for this), rewicking, recoiling, dry burning the coil a bit to degunk it, even spacing the coil winds out a tad with a tiny screwdriver.
On less marvellous news, the Vaporshark rdna40 is ded. The display went first, scrambled then stopped, and very quickly it just stopped firing. Undid the allen bolts and had a look around, nothing obvious. Oops, warranty gone. Still, the homebuilt dna40 is performing stellarly.
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