happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Jan 18, 2016 22:12:49 GMT
Brilliant thankyou both
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Jan 17, 2016 22:08:25 GMT
Apologies for the list but I couldnt see a better way of asking, Ive watched a numerous youtube videos and read a few guides but Im still left a little confused. I have a Kanger SubTank plus and a Crius. When putting a new coil on to a deck which has the screw down design like the subtank RBA do you wrap the leg of the coil a little round the screw or leave it straight and screw the head down on to it? I got scissors with my coiling kit but I tend to find there is always a tiny straggly bit hanging out after cutting, I get a more flush cut using nail clippers, do the wee straggles make any difference could I just leave them? Im used to the dual coil 1.8ohms kanger coils and so wanted to rebuild that ohm level. I tried using 30g and 14 wraps with a 2.5 hole, they came out at about 2.5 or 2.6ohms. to get 3.6 in each am I better going for a higher guage or trying a wider hole? I was using a "magic coil" jig but found after about 12 wraps it started over lapping, that and the fact I never see 3.6ohms coils premade on FastTech/GearBest makes me wonder if Im trying to do something unpractical? From what I can tell the Cirus v3 velocity deck. cant be used as a single coil device? Lastly Im always a bit worried about mixing up my batteries. So if I went down the route of having two 1.8ohm coils in my Crius and I put it in a non-subohming battery what would actually happen? Ive got an Innokin MVP 2.0, MVP 3.0 and a Innokin disrupter, so only the MVP 2.0 cant subohm but would I do damage to battery if I forgot, or would it just not fire? Sorry again and thanks for any help forthcoming
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Jan 17, 2016 21:44:56 GMT
Sad to see this stuff getting in papers, as has already been said mobile phones have caused a lot of fire damage over the years, even appeared in a fire safety advert recently in Scotland, but no polls about banning them.
On a side note, do people know what to do if a battery does explode? I never leave them unattended and have a fire safety blanket in my room, more for when I was a stinky user, which is about to expire, is there something better than that for this type of incident?
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Jan 8, 2016 17:42:41 GMT
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Jan 7, 2016 19:13:46 GMT
Maybe not much use to anyone, but someone might search the forums for info on it, so just to say I ended up getting an Innokin Disrupter. Most places seem to sell with battery for £35 to £40 but I was able to get the "disrupter" for £19.99 and the battery for £12.99 both from Amazon. A wee bit disappointed with it, in that its not like your usual battery from Innokin, theres no thread protector or USB charger. The latter surprises me as most often when you hear about ecigs exploding its someone using the wrong charger on it, so its a strange not to include one, like they do with the MVP's , cpuld say the same for thread protector but I wonder if its the same idea as the battery in that you just replace the disrupter when its worn. Its actually quite heavy, maybe slightly lighter than the MVP3 and slightly smaller. Ive pictured the two side by side below I bought a coffee maker a few years ago and then they stopped making the pods for it, so Im a wee curious to see how this pans out, there are very good reviews of the disrupter but there arent many reviews in total lol. Will probably buy another 2 batteries later in the year, if I get a whole year out of the disrupter part then I cant complain Even though I didnt listen to anyone on here I do appreciate the help and advice, thanks again
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Jan 4, 2016 21:37:08 GMT
In case you weren't aware the KBox 70W doesn't have a built in battery, just thought i would mention it as you seem set on wanting a mod with a built in battery. vape-it.co.uk/kanger-kbox-70tc-10159-p.aspits described as built in mate.
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Jan 4, 2016 18:16:52 GMT
happyloman you mention your other mods not holding charge as well as they did. The advantage of an external replaceable 18650 is exactly that. It's replaceable. A lot of mods taking an external battery can be charged in situ with a usb, just like your mods with built in batteries. Then you can replace the power source in your mods relatively cheap. If I'm honest though an external charger would be the better option but it's something to think about. Jay tbh mate my barrier to making the switch is not really knowing what Im buying, have been doing some reading just now, but there always seem to be safety warnings about charging or using them, so it feels safer buying an all in one.
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Jan 4, 2016 14:27:08 GMT
thanks mate
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Jan 4, 2016 14:01:12 GMT
For what its worth Ive currently got a MVP 2.0, MVP 20W and MVP 3.0 The 2.0 has developed the well known firing issues, after 1 year of use. The 20W is fine, but only 6 months old, so not sure whats ahead and the MVP 3 is great, but its started to hold the charge a little less than before ( its only 3 months old, but was £15 in a sale). So Ive started to hunt around again, dont want to buy one where you have to add a battery, prefer the all-in-one build. There seems to be a lot of complaints about the Coolfire and rattling buttons and there was a poll I found online saying that about half of the people with eleaf 100W were finding it firing up in its own. I was looking at the Kanger Kbox 70 TC, but it states it only works with "nickel or titanium coils", how would I know what my coils are? Ive been trying out building my own using Kanthal based coils, but I tend to stick to the Nature Vape coils, or the actual ones Kanger supply for the Aerotanks, Ive never seen coils listed as Tatanium etc, so its putting me off this one.
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Dec 18, 2015 15:02:34 GMT
Although its described as 510 thread for the drip tip none of my other drip tips fit, Ive got Kanger aero and aero mega, Aspire nauticulus, Davide, Kanger subohm plus, plus a few others I purchased individually, they are all too wide. By "small bore" do you mean the hole in the drip tip? I suppose it could be, it is the narrowest Ive ever seen. Im thinking about trying to drill through that too. Can only assume its either the drip tip or the issue with the rubber, as if I vape on the chimney directly I get a fantastic vape, its unreal the difference in flavour compared to all my tanks. Its not going to get me to shell out £100 on an original, but I might keep an eye out for the £50 ones.
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Dec 18, 2015 5:16:19 GMT
Yea that rubber is in the right place Is the cotton touching the deck without blocking the juice channels? When you suck does it feel like a blockage, (hard to suck) or just no vapor? It feels like Im sucking my finger Ive tried cutting the cotton down to a very narrow width, about less than 1 cm, but its still no good. Im tempted to stick a drill in it to be honest, as when I suck on the chimney the flavour is unreal compared to all my other tanks, so it maybe worth the risk.
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Dec 17, 2015 19:32:10 GMT
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Dec 17, 2015 18:55:15 GMT
Finally got my order from GearBest, it says in description 510 fitting, but none of the 510's I own were slim enough, theres no adaptor either.
The real issue is Im getting nothing out of it at all. When I fire the coil on the open deck, it all looks good, then I screw down the chimney and if take suck on that I get a nice vape lol, but as soon as I screw the rest of it on I get nothing, even with the airhole screw completely out. If I take a mega deep draw I do get a tiny wee amount coming through but not even enough to blow smoke with, I cant think what else to check after unscrewing the airhole screw and positioning the coil well above the hole, Ive put it a very small amount of cotton too. When I took it out of the box and unscrewed it, a small round black silicon seal came out, stuck on to the top part of the chimney, if anything though I would of thought that made the draw easier. The fact the sealant wasnt in properly and the 510 drip tips I have dont fit, Im not sure whether Im doing something wrong or I just got a dud, it was only £11 after all lol.
Ive seen a few videos on drilling holes, but they all tell you to remove the screw in the centre of the base and I just cant get it to budge, that aside the videos all start with them getting a good easy draw before drilling anyway.
Can anyone think of anything else I could try?
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Nov 30, 2015 12:33:27 GMT
Just to round off this thread, in the end on Wednesday last week I went into a shop in the town and bought a Kanger Subtank Plus for £25. Its only single coil, but there are some youtube vids on how to do a dual build on it, Ive emailed Kanger asking if the Dual coil RBA for the original subtank would fit in the Plus and was waiting for a reply before posting, but they arent great at that sort of stuff, so Im not holding my breath. The tank is great a big beast of a thing that will easily wear away at any jacket or trouser pocket when attached to a battery The tank Vapegear sent was the v1 of the subtank, the Plus is supposed to be designed off the v3 version, but already there are upgrades available for the rba cylinder because of dry hits. The air holes arent great on this design either, Im not sure if subohming requires more air or something but they have put 3 types of holes in the valve and then done the same on the other side, so you will always have 2 airholes, for me its too airy, compared to the Kanger Mega tank and the best setting on the AVC, middle hole half open, tends to give a whistling noise when I vape on it Im still getting used to the single coil and extra air, wouldnt say I ever will though, theres no improvements other than no leakage when compared to the Mega, if anything flavour is weaker. First couple of days it was fine, but as soon as I changed the cotton I hit these dry hits, google is awash with. Short of drilling holes on eitherside of the cylinder, Im left with paying £8 + p&p for the "upgraded" mini rba. Its going to be a tank I will tinker with for a while before Im happy, but at least no leakage. I also ordered a Kayfun v4 clone from gearbest, but its not here yet. Thanks again for all the help
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happyloman
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Post by happyloman on Nov 24, 2015 21:41:58 GMT
wow. gearbest prices are incredible.
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