Penelope Teething Troubles

[DiscoDes]

OK I made my first coil/wick on my Penelope last night and it vapes OK but I have a couple of questions.

1. The negative(?) wire, do you just lay it in the stainless channel or trap it with the knurled adjuster ring (the big one that goes over the ceramic assembly)? I laid it in the channel as on the GG videos but did not get a good connection, so ended up trapping it using the large knurled ring, and it works.

2. The draw is rather airy and I like a tight one (don't we boys) any tips? I've tried it on a couple of different Batteries, tried Ego/510 adapters and no discernible difference in the draw.

3. The juice adjustment, does not seem to do a lot on my PP, even fully closed I am able to vape, vapor is OK but not the mind blowing Nirvana I was expecting.If I open it a lot, and I do mean a lot, then I get a slight gurgle, so I nip it back a little and the gurgling stops but I REALLY have to open it up, it almost will not go any further. Comments/suggestions please.

That's it for now, I'll get these points sorted before anything else.

[OneDay]

Des -

1) Don't try to trap the negative wire or you'll cause leaks. Some one (Blakey?) talked about leaving it longer than normal and bending it back on itself to make a kind of V shaped spring to improve connectivity in the channel

2) Penelope was designed to be used on a GG. On some other batteries, especially ego types, it's almost impossible to get a tight draw. Best solution on these is a plinth screwed up tight against the bottom of the Penelope. On a Provari you can get a tight draw if you only have the posi post sticking out a smidgeon

3) The juice control should shut off the juice completely if everything on the bottom bits, including that big knurled locking ring, is tight. I only have to open mine half to 3/4 turn to go from dry to wet wicks.

[Gordy]

with the negative wire make sure that it is under the wick as that will keep it tight against the channel

the draw can be quite airy with these... some mods are better than others ...if its a problem just plug one of the holes in the 510 connector with blu tack or similar

with the juice control closed the juice will dry out from the wick after a few draws ...if it gurgles then you have it too far open

[DiscoDes]

Sept 10, 2012 13:55:29 GMT OneDay said:

Des -

1) Don't try to trap the negative wire or you'll cause leaks. Some one (Blakey?) talked about leaving it longer than normal and bending it back on itself to make a kind of V shaped spring to improve connectivity in the channel

I tried just laying it in but had a >30ohm connection, the coil metered out at about 2.5 ohms, I don't have any leaks and the ring loks snug agianst the bottom, but I will ty the V.

2) Penelope was designed to be used on a GG. On some other batteries, especially ego types, it's almost impossible to get a tight draw. Best solution on these is a plinth screwed up tight against the bottom of the Penelope. On a Provari you can get a tight draw if you only have the posi post sticking out a smidgeon

I tried a Ego, Lavatube Mini and I have it on the Provari, the centre post just sticks out a gnats winkie, I may try winding it back in a touch to see if I can get a bit of a seal agiant the Provari Bottom and the PP

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3) The juice control should shut off the juice completely if everything on the bottom bits, including that big knurled locking ring, is tight. I only have to open mine half to 3/4 turn to go from dry to wet wicks.

It's vaping OK, no dry hits, no leaks and no gurgling, but I'll try the other coil method to see if trapping the wire is affecting it somehow......

Thanks for your comments, they were helpful



[/quote]

[Ellen]

Think the guys above have already answered your questions Des
My only thought was the wick set up you're using?
I find that only by doing a "Blakey special" multi wick do I get the real steam train flavour and vapour

[OneDay]

Des re the draw on Provari, I go through this sequence when re-wicked:

-screw the large locking ring a few turns onto the ceramic housing to trap the wicks in place

- screw the ceramic housing a couple of turns into the base

- screw the base tight onto the Provari

- screw in the ceamic housing until it just makes contact with the posi

- unscrew the base about 1/8 turn off the Provari

- screw the ceramic housing in again until it just makes contact

This should give minimum airflow and a nice tight draw. To test the draw before attaching and filling the tank:

- screw the locking ring right down

- screw on the mouthpiece tight down

- test the draw and adjust as necessary

[DiscoDes]

Sept 10, 2012 14:37:35 GMT OneDay said:

Des re the draw on Provari, I go through this sequence when re-wicked:

-screw the large locking ring a few turns onto the ceramic housing to trap the wicks in place

- screw the ceramic housing a couple of turns into the base

- screw the base tight onto the Provari

- screw in the ceamic housing until it just makes contact with the posi

- unscrew the base about 1/8 turn off the Provari

- screw the ceramic housing in again until it just makes contact

This should give minimum airflow and a nice tight draw. To test the draw before attaching and filling the tank:

- screw the locking ring right down

- screw on the mouthpiece tight down

- test the draw and adjust as necessary

Excellent advice Oneday, i'll try this.

[DiscoDes]

Sept 10, 2012 14:33:22 GMT Ellen said:

Think the guys above have already answered your questions Des
My only thought was the wick set up you're using?
I find that only by doing a "Blakey special" multi wick do I get the real steam train flavour and vapour

Hi Ellen, I am using the 3mm wick as advised by GG, the main thing I guess is the draw and I'll try what Gordy says and block a hole.

These things certainly are a "learning curve" even for a "seasoned vaper" like me!

This was only my first effort I am sure I'll get these things ironed out in time.

Once again thanks for your helpful advice.

[johnboy]

Ellen I am lost again!!!! where do I find "Blakey special" Sorry Pet.



Edit for me smiley.

[Ellen]

Check out this thread, the 3rd post, Blakey has instructions and a pic on his special wick

allaboute-cigarettes.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=tips&thread=9482&page=1#209782

[DiscoDes]

Sept 10, 2012 16:11:30 GMT Ellen said:

Check out this thread, the 3rd post, Blakey has instructions and a pic on his special wick

allaboute-cigarettes.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=tips&thread=9482&page=1#209782

Thanks Ellen.

[jayjay]

Des,

I found the penny wont leak if you trap that wire with the gnurled nut, until you try and refill her. Then it leaks. The gap might not even be visible, but it will leak on refill. Leak for ten mins, then its fine.

But if you do as suggested, its fine.

[jayjay]

Oh and des, for a tighter draw, I just needed the centre post sticking out the bottom of the penny half a mm, max. What I was doing wrong, was just not tightening it enough onto the provari. I wasn't giving it that extra half a turn. Thats what makes the difference.

[DiscoDes]

Sept 10, 2012 18:32:05 GMT jayjay said:

Des,

I found the penny wont leak if you trap that wire with the gnurled nut, until you try and refill her. Then it leaks. The gap might not even be visible, but it will leak on refill. Leak for ten mins, then its fine.

But if you do as suggested, its fine.

I've refilled it and no leaks but i will recoil it as per Blakey's instructions.

[DiscoDes]

Sept 10, 2012 18:40:59 GMT jayjay said:

Oh and des, for a tighter draw, I just needed the centre post sticking out the bottom of the penny half a mm, max. What I was doing wrong, was just not tightening it enough onto the provari. I wasn't giving it that extra half a turn. Thats what makes the difference.

The center pin is only poking out a gnats todgerbut I'll set it up as per Blakey's instrctions. I have blocked one of the holes with Blu tak and it has improved it, though it's still not tight enough for me, i'll keep on experimenting.......................