maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Feb 5, 2013 17:54:38 GMT
If you put a meter across a couple of inches of wire you'll know straight away..Usually the res wire is a bit stiffer, but metering it will establish which is which for definite..
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2013 18:41:16 GMT
silver wire is lighter in colour and more flexible but as macca says run a meter over them to be sure also run a lighter over the wires the silver will melt and doesnt glow as quick as the resistance wire
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archiecat
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Post by archiecat on Feb 5, 2013 18:44:02 GMT
OK thanks guys, I'm off to buy a cheap multimeter on ebay.
Thanks for your help.
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archiecat
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Post by archiecat on Feb 5, 2013 19:13:25 GMT
I'm allmost sure that my first attempt at setting the thing up I had the wires the wrong way round, I had 1.4 ohms and f-all happening at the coil!!! lol.
Its quite fiddly hope it's worth the hassle when I get it working correctly.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2013 20:18:04 GMT
Its quite fiddly hope it's worth the hassle when I get it working correctly. it certainly is
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bones3
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Post by bones3 on Feb 5, 2013 20:18:30 GMT
i tried eveything to get mine working right i can get the coil firing correctly but for the life of me i cant get it to stop flooding and gurgling !!
1 good thing tho i have come to realize is that i need to boil my silica !! or my gums hurt!! wierd or what!!
i have given in with it for a day or two and i have built up a did16 with a silica wick as i find that i quite like silica wicks now that i have boiled it!!
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Ron
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Post by Ron on Feb 5, 2013 22:09:10 GMT
I had the self same gurgling problems with my Nautilus so in the end I stripped it down to the last o ring .The positive post that screws into the ceramic housing has an o ring on it under the housing and it was mis-shaped not having a spare I put it between my fingers and squeezed it then re-assembled and with 3mm wick with an extra 2mm under the coil it is now a treat.If I said its a more meaty vape would you understand what I meant
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neofolis
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Post by neofolis on Feb 6, 2013 14:14:10 GMT
Can someone explain to me the air path, because I have the Chinese version and having read that the air flow is controlled by the height of the positive pin, I moved that down as far as it would go to give an airy draw, but the furthest it will go down is with only a very slight part protruding and when I close the mouth piece I get no air flow at all. I don't actually want a particularly airy draw, but I was trying to wind the positive post down more to get some air flow and it's just not happening. I see there is a small hole in the centre of the positive post but surely the air doesn't go in through that and obviously it doesn't go between the positive post and the negative, because there is an O ring sealing in between, so I'm a little confused. Sorry if the answer is in the thread somewhere, I have read most pages a couple of times and not found anything.
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Ron
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Post by Ron on Feb 6, 2013 15:05:17 GMT
The mouth piece is for juice control I think.Just cracked open between half or one full turn .It stops the choddy flooding
Also moving the mouth piece is not the positive post
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neofolis
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Post by neofolis on Feb 6, 2013 16:20:01 GMT
Yes, I am aware of this, what I am saying is that when the mouth piece is closed, there is no air flow, so if I open it, it would try to suck air through the juice and suck loads of juice onto the coil, flooding it. I think I have worked it out anyway. I think I had the ceramic holder screwed too far into the base and it was shutting off the air flow, I assume, because the O ring on the positive terminal was blocking it.
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neofolis
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Post by neofolis on Feb 7, 2013 6:00:00 GMT
Sorry, I'm still having an issue with this. Basically when I screw the ceramic holder into the base I should have the positive pin protruding from the 510 connection very slightly, but if I do that there is no air flow. I have to back it off a full turn before I get air flow, at which it is a totally open draw and the positive pin is no longer protruding from the base. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong, I assume it can't be a manufacturing fault, otherwise they'd all be like it.
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Post by Perpetua on Feb 7, 2013 7:36:19 GMT
I don't really know the answer to your problem Neo, is this the Choddy, not the Nautilis or Terminator?
But a couple of questions, what are you screwing it into and have you tried it with an adapter?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2013 12:32:51 GMT
Sorry, I'm still having an issue with this. Basically when I screw the ceramic holder into the base I should have the positive pin protruding from the 510 connection very slightly, but if I do that there is no air flow. I have to back it off a full turn before I get air flow, at which it is a totally open draw and the positive pin is no longer protruding from the base. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong, I assume it can't be a manufacturing fault, otherwise they'd all be like it. have you got the o-ring tight up against the knurled locking ring on the ceramic housing unit cos if you have it sat in the groove at the bottom of the unit it will cause an air tight seal?
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neofolis
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Post by neofolis on Feb 7, 2013 16:56:42 GMT
I don't really know the answer to your problem Neo, is this the Choddy, not the Nautilis or Terminator? But a couple of questions, what are you screwing it into and have you tried it with an adapter? It's the Chinese version, there is no air flow even when it's not screwed into anything.
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neofolis
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Post by neofolis on Feb 7, 2013 17:00:35 GMT
Sorry, I'm still having an issue with this. Basically when I screw the ceramic holder into the base I should have the positive pin protruding from the 510 connection very slightly, but if I do that there is no air flow. I have to back it off a full turn before I get air flow, at which it is a totally open draw and the positive pin is no longer protruding from the base. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong, I assume it can't be a manufacturing fault, otherwise they'd all be like it. have you got the o-ring tight up against the knurled locking ring on the ceramic housing unit cos if you have it sat in the groove at the bottom of the unit it will cause an air tight seal? Yes, it's tight against the locking nut, but it's like the positive pin is not long enough, because, by the time it's screwed in far enough to make contact with the positive part of the 510 I'm screwing it into, that O ring is totally blocking any air flow and is being squeezed between the knurled locking nut and the groove at the bottom.
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