Mech Mods - Where Am I Going Wrong??

[GunJack]

ok, so trying a UDT-L with either protected 18650 or IMR 18350 battery. I have pimped it in line with the video (copper braid over spring) and with Protank-II, evod, iClear30 and bauway CE4. No matter what combo of battery, resistance, tank & juice I use, it's just not doing it for me

Am I missing something, or just expecting too much and should stick to my electronic mods??

[Deleted]

Other than the aesthetics and robustness of a mechanical mod, there is no great advantage over a regulated mod unless you have a fully charged battery and your atty resistance is around 1 ohm or lower when you will get 16 watts and over power output. Make sure your battery current discharge characteristics are up to the job in this case.

[GunJack]

this is why I think there's something up somewhere, I normally only vape around 6-7 watts anyway....

[fred]

Mar 3, 2014 10:37:34 GMT GunJack said:

this is why I think there's something up somewhere, I normally only vape around 6-7 watts anyway....

Are you using RMS mode?

Before I swapped my vamo to RMS, I'd swear 8w was more like 15! Everything was tasting burnt. Once swapped to RMS, 10w is my sweet spot.

My aga-t is microcoiled at 1ohm, and as @yinyang said, on a fresh battery, is just over 16w - its blows clouds compared to the vamo.

Personally, I think the Atty/coil/wick makes much more difference to my vape, than the device it is on.
Of course, 1ohm coils won't even fire on the vamo!

[Deleted]

Mar 3, 2014 10:37:34 GMT GunJack said:

this is why I think there's something up somewhere, I normally only vape around 6-7 watts anyway....

The only reason that I favour mechanical mods over regulated mods is for the looks and the robustness. I am not a sub-ohm cloud chaser and prefer my vape around 9 watts with an atty resistance around 1.5 - 2 ohms. This is why all my mods are fitted with a kick module - I get my regulated output but with a bullet-proof mod that meets my aesthetic requirements. 

[GunJack]

fred, yes, vamo in RMS... but using the same tanks etc the mech doesn't come close hence my concerns......

@yinyang, protank @ 2.1ohms, only use 3.4-ish volts on the vamo hence expecting the mech to vape similar, but it just doesn't

[Deleted]

Mar 3, 2014 11:17:38 GMT GunJack said:

fred, yes, vamo in RMS... but using the same tanks etc the mech doesn't come close hence my concerns......

@yinyang, protank @ 2.1ohms, only use 3.4-ish volts on the vamo hence expecting the mech to vape similar, but it just doesn't

I was having a read of the reviews on this mod and they ain't very favourable. Have you checked with a voltmeter what voltage output you are actually getting at the 510 connector as a lot of ownwrs are complaining about the crappy switch and unacceptable voltage drop?

[geordie_vaper]

Mar 3, 2014 11:27:02 GMT @yinyang said:

Mar 3, 2014 11:17:38 GMT GunJack said:

fred, yes, vamo in RMS... but using the same tanks etc the mech doesn't come close hence my concerns......

@yinyang, protank @ 2.1ohms, only use 3.4-ish volts on the vamo hence expecting the mech to vape similar, but it just doesn't

I was having a read of the reviews on this mod and they ain't very favourable. Have you checked with a voltmeter what voltage output you are actually getting at the 510 connector as a lot of ownwrs are complaining about the crappy switch and unacceptable voltage drop?

hey yingyang how would you check that just make contact with 510 pin then with other lead make comcact with the switch contact? and what would be a decent output reading?

[Deleted]

Mar 3, 2014 11:36:07 GMT geordie_vaper said:

Mar 3, 2014 11:27:02 GMT @yinyang said:

I was having a read of the reviews on this mod and they ain't very favourable. Have you checked with a voltmeter what voltage output you are actually getting at the 510 connector as a lot of ownwrs are complaining about the crappy switch and unacceptable voltage drop?

hey yingyang how would you check that just make contact with 510 pin then with other lead make comcact with the switch contact? and what would be a decent output reading?

Voltmeter set to 20 volt DC range, red lead on 510 pin, black lead on outer threaded part of the 510 connection and then press down on the switch. The reading should ideally be close to the actual voltage of the battery - ie: very little voltage drop within the mod.

[GunJack]

Mar 3, 2014 11:27:02 GMT @yinyang said:

Have you checked with a voltmeter what voltage output you are actually getting at the 510 connector as a lot of ownwrs are complaining about the crappy switch and unacceptable voltage drop?

next job...

[DiscoDes]

What batteries are you using?

Protected?

Un-Protected?

It might be the battery your using is not delivering enough current.

[GunJack]

I would expect 3.6-ish volts, maybe .8 or .9 with the extra copper in the base...will see what it turns out at when i get to it...

[GunJack]

Mar 3, 2014 11:44:21 GMT DiscoDes said:

What batteries are you using?

Protected?

Un-Protected?

It might be the battery your using is not delivering enough current.

tried 18650 protected and 18350 imr... both similar

[DiscoDes]

Mar 3, 2014 12:12:44 GMT GunJack said:

I would expect 3.6-ish volts, maybe .8 or .9 with the extra copper in the base...will see what it turns out at when i get to it...

GunJack without anything on and a fresh battery I'd expect nearer to 4v to 4.1v.

[dave]

I find the simplest way to check what is coming out of a mod and the drop under load is one of these:

www.safercigs.co.uk/Tankometer/cat705284_1285820.aspx

Other vendors do similar ones.