Dude the black beauty is the SR-71a of mods so
so
.
I'd buy one of your mods without even thinking twice, but the need to build one over rides the need to buy one.
Guide here for this box
Notes:
Use flux on all connections and wiring
I use 0.32 60/40 solder with a chisel tip for the soldering iron
Tin all wires
Clean all areas where you are soldering with Isopropyl to remove grease (except wires) and make sure the Isopropyl has dried
Clean all solder joints with Isopropyl after soldering
Be very careful when handling the OLED screen as it is the most fragile part of the board
Get yourself a tool like free hands or a adjustable vice to hold things
Epoxy must be left to dry fully on all parts before moving onto the next part
When fixing parts with epoxy keep a eye on the parts to make sure they don't move out of position
Periodically check wire connections with a multimeter to make sure nothing has come away from soldering joints
1a: Measure and mark the drill holes for the: 510 connector + Buttons
1b: Centre punch the marked drill holes and drill a 1mm pilot hole for each marked hole followed by a 3mm drill hole to make it bigger and then use a reamer to make them the required size
2a: Measure and mark the rectangle cut-out for the OLED frame and also make a mark behind each inside corner of the rectangle with a distance of 1mm from the marked rectangle edge
2b: Centre punch the four marks you made for each inside corner and drill all four holes with a 1mm drill bit making sure the holes do not protrude beyond the outer rectangle
2c: Using a dremel and cutting disc start in the center of each outline of the rectangle and dremel to each corner of the drill holes you made until the inner rectangle falls through
2d: Using small files, file until you get a perfect rectangle for the OLED frame to fit in, the frame should just drop in without any force
4a: Measure and mark the cut-out for the USB hole and light
4b: Inside the marked cut-out for the USB mark two holes for a 3mm drill bit leaving a 0.5mm gap between each, Centre punch the marked holes and drill 2 x 3mm holes where you have marked with a centre punch and then file the rest by hand to make the shape of the USB hole
4c: Centre punch the marked USB light hole and drill 1 x 1.5mm hole for the light
5: Sand box with 80 grit paper and then 180 grit paper and then 400 grit paper
6: Using 60 grit paper sand the area inside the box where the 510 + Buttons + OLED frame + USB + Battery holder will be epoxied down, also sand down where the DNA board will be fixed into place
7: Keep cleaning the box with Isopropyl until there is no residue/dirt/dust left and wait for it to dry (2mins)
8a: 8b must be done within 30mins after the Isopropyl has been done or oxidation will kick back in
8b: Using self etching primer, prime the box with one coat
9: Leave to dry for 24hrs for the acid to etch the box
10: Once self etching is dry prime the box with 2-3 coats of High build primer (see can instructions for re-coating times between each coat)
11: Leave to dry for 24hrs
12: Sand down the primer with 800 grit wet and dry paper (put two drops of washing up liquid into the water that the wet and dry is using) until smooth making sure not to go too hard on the edges of the box as that is the weakest point, you do not want to sand too much or you will get down to the bare metal
13: Clean box with Isopropyl until there is no residue/dirt/dust left and wait for it to dry (2mins)
14: Spray paint the box with 2-3 coats (see can instructions for re-coating times between each coat)
15: Once you have done the last coat of spray paint wait for it to just finish of drying (as soon as there is no shine left) then spray paint the box with your chosen laquer (see can instructions for re-coating times between each coat) and then leave to dry for 24hrs once finished
16a: Cut a piece of 2mm Lexan just a little bit over sized and file down until it fits the OLED frame and then using very fine sandpaper finish of the edges until smooth
16b: Using 5min epoxy very finely put some on the inner edges part of the OLED frame and fix the 2mm screen into place
17a: Before 17b clean area with Isopropyl and wait for it to dry (5mins)
17b: Using 5min epoxy, epoxy the frame into the box using a very fine sheen of epoxy to do this
18a: Clean solder points with Isopropyl and wire up the DNA board, when finished clean all soldered points with Isopropyl to remove any flux that is left behind
18b: Using double sided tape, tape the OLED to the inductor on the back of the board to keep it in place
19a: Clean the area with Isopropyl where the board is going to sit and wait for it to dry (2mins) and then place the OLED into the frame and the DNA board into position making sure the OLED is securely fixed into place inside the OLED frame in the box and using epoxy 5min, epoxy the bottom edge corners of the board and secure to the box holding it in place whilst the epoxy sets
19b: Once the epoxy has dried put some epoxy 2hr on top to make it even more secure
20a: Wire up the Buttons + USB + 510 Connector + Battery holder with fuses making sure all soldering points are cleaned from flux using Isopropyl and then soldered parts heat shrinked
20b: NOTE: Best to rough up the edges on the inside of the 510 connector where the negative wire will be with 80 grit sandpaper and clean with Isopropyl and wait for it to dry (2mins)
20c: Once the Isopropyl is dry you can solder the negative wire
20d: Optional: You can pack out the underside of the 510 with epoxy to keep the wires in place from stress, this will also stop the 510 center pin to move when a atty is fitted
21a: Cut a 1mm piece of Lexan to the same size of the USB board but just below the + & - holes as you don't want the 1mm Lexan covering these holes and then epoxy it too the back of the board using 5min epoxy making sure you do not get any epoxy on the USB light
21b: Rough up the back of the 1mm Lexan with 80 grit sandpaper and clean with Isopropyl
21c: Clean the area where the USB will be fixed with Isopropyl and leave to dry (5mins)
21d: Put some 2hr epoxy on the 1mm Lexan and fix the USB into place
21e: Once the 2hr epoxy is fully dry put some 5min epoxy on top for extra strength
22a: Before 24b clean area with Isopropyl and leave to dry (2mins)
22b: Fit the 510 connector into the box and epoxy into place using JB weld epoxy
23a: Before 25b clean area with Isopropyl and leave to dry (2mins)
23b: Fit the buttons into place and epoxy them down using 2hr epoxy and once fully dried put some 5min epoxy for even more strength
24: Place a piece of heat shrink over each wire on the DNA board
25: Solder each wire coming from the DNA board onto each corresponding wire in the box and heat shrink one by one at a time
26: Place a sticker with a + sign on it and stick inside the box, Place another sticker with a - sign on it and stick it inside the box (Place the battery holder in place so you get a idea of where to stick the stickers)
27: Fit the battery holder with the + end facing north (510 connector end) and epoxy down using 2hr epoxy
28: Test all connections with a multimeter to make sure all is fine
29: Tidy up all wires without putting to much stress on them
30: Fit the battery in place making sure you put the battery in the right way
so 
.
