Perseus Atty, extras £9-44 SS/GL FT 7days.

[VapingBad]

Aug 15, 2014 12:41:16 GMT Ripshod said:

It's arrived.

Got it boiling right now, ready for fun and games later.

Gotta say the machining is bang on

Are the holes in the -ve posts pointing in the same direction?

-ve post are a good idea, but the holes are cross-eyed on the FT pics.

[Ripshod]

Now you mention it they are cock-eyed, both holes lined up with the centre post, 90 degrees out from what I'd expect. Both -ve posts screw out so swapped them over and they're worse. Not to worry, I'll work something round this.

[Ripshod]

Dammit this thing works really well. 0.8ohm kicks a**.

Only problem is it's a freakin' whistler. I'm glad I tested this thing at home, it's loud enough to stop a match.

It's the restriction in the top cap that's whistling but only with it's own drip tip. Other drip tips are silent so quick fix

[monty]

I mainly use gennies, I find them the lest faff of anything because (1) cleaning them is so quick - remove the wick and wipe it, dry burn the coil and clean with an inter-tooth brush and (2) a wick will last months and months. Here are a few tips on making the set up easier.

• Use thick Kanthal 0.32 on a mini genny, 0.4 if the wick hole is bigger. This eliminates hot legs.
• Use the drill bit method.
• Make almost touching coils - like a micro coil but with space to let the vapour out.
• When your tightening the nut on the centre post if you put the wire on one side it tends to pull the Kanthal. if you put it on the other side tightening will tend to push the wire out - you want it on the pulling in side. When it's screwed down tight use the nut under the Kanthal to correct any pulling in. This is the only part where you need to take care, the coil needs to be vertical and the top coil mustn't be tighter than the others.
• Remove the drill bit and fire the coil without the wick. This is belts and braces, oxidising the Kanthal and the wick.
• With the microcoilish coil you can put in a loose fitting wick, this reduces the dangers of hot spots.
• Cut the bottom of the wick at an angle.

Since I've used this method I've had almost no problems and I can enjoy being a low faff. lazy vaper.
I use www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001862/1134600-honest-503-pen-style-butane-jet-torch-and-lighter to oxidise the wick which works fine and refills without a hitch. I heat the wick once, after rolling- no quenching.
Juice burns are to reduce the time the wick takes to be broken in rather than for insulation.
Fat wicks, thin wicks, solid wicks straw wicks - they all work. I don't take any notice of the boffins (buffoons?) who say the wick should work without tilting - nobody told me how I should smoke a cigarette. My recommended wick for a big holed genny like the Persius is a thin walled straw wick ie a big hole own the middle. This gives a lot of tilt control, when you want to vape at high Watts just hold the mod almost horizontally. It also means you can experiment by adding a thin wick or popping in some SS rope - these should be good and loose, its the space that does the wicking.

ps I'm not making any claims about this being the right way, the best way or the way it ought to be done. Just the easiest way with the least problems or at least the most problem free way I've found.