New microstick wouldn't fire - now FIXED!!!

[Pepperty]

there was a slight delay on the wire front.... man wouldn't let me cannibalize the tv or kettle/ toaster lead for a few inches of earth wire.....

rudeness! does he not understand how important this is? surely he can live without a cuppa so I can attempt to fix my microstick?!

[Greg]

Aug 31, 2014 12:31:33 GMT Pepperty said:

there was a slight delay on the wire front.... man wouldn't let me cannibalize the tv or kettle/ toaster lead for a few inches of earth wire.....

rudeness! does he not understand how important this is? surely he can live without a cuppa so I can attempt to fix my microstick?!

It's no good Pepperty, he'll have to go 

Come on crack on and get it fixed. If you have no wire just skip it and whip the 510 out again and give all threads a good clean. It seems there's a little aluminium corrosion going on in the threads causing the issue as per kl34 findings, cleaned up thoroughly and now his is working fine 

[Pepperty]

I've had it back to bits, its been scraped and gouged at, its been buffed and polished and it still wouldn't fire


So following advice from miniecig and copying on from kl34 I've attached a wire from 510 metal to under button,and the bloody thing 'snap crackled and popped' like a good pack of Kellog's rice krispies and let me tell you, squeezing that cable into gap with atty attached in was a conundrum....

It's nowhere near as useable and attractive as earlier photo but my eyebrow tweezers and a pair of nail scissors aren't really the ideal tools for stripping cable It won't work without the wire connection and I've taken a right good scrape at the grooves in the body (for the atomiser) and then cleaned with aurosol and cleaned up the brass battery ring but my 'wonky donkey' is still not working

[Pepperty]

and NO I wont be using it will cable attached, its not 'the latest thing' in e-cig lanyards Tease-smiley however much you lot try to convince me....  

[Greg]

Pep when I zoom in on that 510 connector of yours I can see that white powder corrosion I think in the threads. Is there any of that white stuff in the mod body threads.

Damn you microstick just work won't you

by mod mod threads I mean the ones the 510 ring screws into.

[Greg]

Pepperty another thought, leave one end of wire on the atty and move other end of wire from switch to one of the screws holding the base on, will it fire now ?

[Pepperty]

test no. 30084 just off to try that...........

Yes, with one end of wire squished into one of the side gaps and pushed down touching 510 connector and wire poked into a screw hole underneath - it also fires 
I'm still not fashioning it into a lanyard......

[Greg]

Aug 31, 2014 13:36:09 GMT Pepperty said:

test no. 30084 just off to try that...........

Yes, with one end of wire squished into one of the side gaps and pushed down touching 510 connector and wire poked into a screw hole underneath - it also fires 
I'm still not fashioning it into a lanyard......

So now we know the brass switch insert is good so it seems it's definitely the connection between the two sets of threads between the 510 outer ring threads and the mod body threads.

strip the 510 out again and clean both sets of threads and in particular the mod body threads as these are aluminium and the cause of the white powder corrosion I suspect is causing the problem. The 510 looks like steel so any powder on that has come from the mod body threads.
clean threads to death then try again, ask your man if he has a little wire brush or any wire wool.

[Greg]

kl34 what did you use to clean up the mod body threads ?

[Pepperty]

I'm now going to try mineral oil on threads..........as clean number 3 didnt work

Microstick also fires if I press wire to spheroid tube and other end under fire button

[Greg]

Aug 31, 2014 13:58:08 GMT Pepperty said:

I'm now going to try mineral oil on threads..........as clean number 3 didnt work

Microstick also fires if I press wire to spheroid tube and other end under fire button

Yep it's definitely the 510/body threads that's causing the issue. Because continuity is lost at these threads you have no current flow. When you connect the wire to the atty your are bypassing this high resistance joint with the wire.

[Greg]

Not sure mineral oil will help, you need abrasion to remove the coating from the threads

[blakey]

Aug 31, 2014 14:05:29 GMT Greg said:

Not sure mineral oil will help, you need abrasion to remove the coating from the threads

Wire wool will do the job nicely

[Pepperty]

I've just taken some macro-close ups. I think there might be a tiny bit of black on the first thread nearest the tube part the atty goes in? I cant think wtf I have at hand that can get half inch up to that point...............


I really cant think what I can use to scrape at it, a metal scouring pad isnt going to fit up there....

[Pepperty]

I'll empty out under the sink- I may have an old fashioned wire wool lurking....but its unlikely  I already know from son using a multimeter, that the reading fell off just past halfway down