New microstick wouldn't fire - now FIXED!!!

[Brambles]

Aug 30, 2014 11:51:31 GMT Pepperty said:

Aug 30, 2014 11:45:11 GMT Wobblybootie said:

One probe on the threads of the m/stick where the switch screws in the other on the outside of the 510. You should get 0.1

Sent from my Nexus 7 using proboards

I can't see the logic of that one as the brass ring with grooves for button is not connected to anything else except the anoxidised body (which isnt supposed to conduct? is it..)

It is where the threaded inserts are!
..and this is what I think the problem might be.

[Greg]

Aug 30, 2014 11:51:31 GMT Pepperty said:

Aug 30, 2014 11:45:11 GMT Wobblybootie said:

One probe on the threads of the m/stick where the switch screws in the other on the outside of the 510. You should get 0.1

Sent from my Nexus 7 using proboards

I can't see the logic of that one as the brass ring with grooves for button is not connected to anything else except the anoxidised body (which isnt supposed to conduct? is it..)

The brass thread insert MUST conduct to the anodised body or the mod won't fire. The suggestion is that the anodisation is preventing conductivity hence mod not firing. It's all guess work Pepperty but if you do the suggested test it will prove or disprove the theory.

[Brambles]

Aug 30, 2014 11:55:17 GMT Pepperty said:

im just cornering my son so I'll get him to go through this with me............

You do NOT have a bleep continuity test on your meter...just use the 200 Omega as you call it

[Greg]

Aug 30, 2014 11:55:17 GMT Pepperty said:

im just cornering my son so I'll get him to go through this with me............

If the paperclip test works then set your meter as above with just the red lead connected and poke the other end of the red lead in the COM plug hole of the meter, you should get close to zero if the lead is good. Take out the red lead and replace with the black lead, are you getting a steady zero ish with both leads ?

[Cousin Itt]

Thats the lady Pepperty

[Pepperty]

he says that the positive end works (brass button - battery -bar - 510 brass into atty works) but the negative - (silver outer ring of 510) can't seem to get back to button to complete the circuit hence no power.................

Does that info help? he's saying how can the silver ring outside the brass pin connect to anything?

[Ripshod]

Dare I suggest sending it to someone who can sort it and send it to you working Pepperty? It'll svae a lot of typing, and FRUSTRATION. Or is there someone close by who could visit and fix it?

It can be very frustrating trying to deal with things like this in this way!

For now I'm going to step back and give others a chance, different opinions on the use of DMMs is already surfacing.

[Wobblybootie]

No continuity between the threaded ring and body OR no continuity between 510 and body

Sent from my Nexus 7 using proboards

[Brambles]

Aug 30, 2014 12:19:13 GMT Pepperty said:

he says that the positive end works (brass button - battery -bar - 510 brass into atty works) but the negative - (silver outer ring of 510) can't seem to get back to button to complete the circuit hence no power.................

Does that info help? he's saying how can the silver ring outside the brass pin connect to anything?

OK, so now you have established it is the body of the mod which is faulty.
There are two possibilities. The threaded insert for the switch, or the 510 connector outer part. One of them or both do not make contact to the body.

Use your meter again to check between one of the small screw threaded holes in the body (for the bottom cover) and the brass threaded ring, and then the 510 connector outer part and see which ones do not connect to the body.

[Wobblybootie]

You need to make sure the probe on the body is in contact with METAL and not the anodized surface!!

[Greg]

Pepperty more guess work here but if the mod body was anodised before the switch threaded insert and the 510 threaded insert and the two sets of mod threads (or even just one set of threads) weren't protected from the anodisation process then the anodisation is acting as an insulator between sets of threads. I recall although it didn't prevent firing decor identified this issue on a gizmo and when he removed the anodisation the mod performs significantly better.

Do the two tests WB suggests and let's see the results.

[Greg]

Aug 29, 2014 17:27:27 GMT Pepperty said:

no I don't have the old one, I could afford to keep both, I just assumed brand new mean no issues - I'm a fool!


Nothing untowards underneath, seems as tightened as it can possibly go 



I cant even cry a lot and drink copious amounts of vodka to numb my pain......son needs a lift home in a couple of hours

Referring to the pic above stick one probe in one of the Allen key holes and one probe in one of the dimples on the silver outer 510, what are you getting ?

[Pepperty]

Pep's son here. Just tested the current between the threaded insert for the switch and the body of the microstick and it is the same as the battery. Therefore the problem lies with the 510 connector outer part as I cannot get a reading from it. Can't see how to remove the 510 connector outer ring to see the connection

[Greg]

Aug 30, 2014 12:49:48 GMT Pepperty said:

Pep's son here. Just tested the current between the threaded insert for the switch and the body of the microstick and it is the same as the battery. Therefore the problem lies with the 510 connector outer part as I cannot get a reading from it. Can't see how to remove the 510 connector outer ring to see the connection

Outer 510 ring may just screw out, maybe the spheroid fork tool will fit those two holes in the base of the outer 510 ring and allow it to be screwed out.

[Pepperty]

Aug 30, 2014 12:48:07 GMT Greg said:

Aug 29, 2014 17:27:27 GMT Pepperty said:

no I don't have the old one, I could afford to keep both, I just assumed brand new mean no issues - I'm a fool!


Nothing untowards underneath, seems as tightened as it can possibly go 



I cant even cry a lot and drink copious amounts of vodka to numb my pain......son needs a lift home in a couple of hours

Referring to the pic above stick one probe in one of the Allen key holes and one probe in one of the dimples on the silver outer 510, what are you getting ?

Just did that, no resistance between dimples and body/alan key holes and did test the multimeter on other parts and it did show a reading. Clearly the body has been oxidized where it shouldnt have been