New microstick wouldn't fire - now FIXED!!!

[Wobblybootie]

photo please ...

[Pepperty]

Previous Post edit: Actually noted the readings. brass threads to body is 1.1 once settled and the 510 threads read about 1.2 Ohms when I could get a reading. This is from the 200 Ohm sensitivity. I guess that's an issue being 11x the resistance

[Wobblybootie]

Those readings are not good.

They should be 0 or 0.1 meaning there is no resistance to interrupt or block the current flow.

Anything above 0 means no current can flow, It's Dead. Send it back ... see previous post re DOA.

[Wobblybootie]

Aug 30, 2014 13:06:41 GMT Wobblybootie said:

I would not attempt anything that could impair your claim re Dead On Arrival. eg damaging the 510. Manufacturer should reimburse ALL costs incurred, postage etc.

This is your best course of action, or at least it would be mine. I would not expect to pay good money for something then be expected to fix it myself!!

Off to collect daughter from Hockey, back in 20 mins

[Greg]

1.2 ohms is probably fine as they may be inaccuracy in the meter or the leads. Short the meter leads together, what reading do you get ?

Regarding the 510, is there any coating on the mod threads that the 510 outer screws into ? I'm suggesting maybe the coating is on the mod 510 threads rather than the 510 itself.

[hijack]

If that is a brass thread that is being tested in the pic above and its not reading close to .0 Ohm you will have to send it back to the vendor. There is no way of getting those out, I think they are press fitted into the aluminium body.

[Pepperty]

Aug 30, 2014 14:26:35 GMT hijack said:

If that is a brass thread that is being tested in the pic above and its not reading close to .0 Ohm you will have to send it back to the vendor. There is no way of getting those out, I think they are press fitted into the aluminium body.

No, no it isn't hijack. The one part that cannot be removed is the brass rings around the neck of the battery part. But on the other side it can all be removed, 1st the brass pin, then the metal 510 ring (from the underneath) using a gp spheroid fork. This leaves the body stripped down to brass grooves at other side/battery button and grooves at base on atty side




From all the probing my son tried out the metal grooves inside the body that take the 510 connector (theres about 5 twists) half conduct and other doesnt and readings are too high.

At first I couldn't work out how the brass firing button could be the end of the continuous loop ( I understood it being the start - from the brass screw and spring making a connection) but now I see that the mod is made from a solid block and that only the outside is non conductive, due to its anoxidising coat and the inner part which has the 510 fitment should be conductive back to the firing button... so least I now understand HOW just not WHY it wont work

At least this thread is interesting to anyone who wonders what the microstick looks like in detail..... I think I will have to contact miniecig Chels and ask him to read thread to see what my issue is 

You've all been so helpful, and its confusing but I cant see that its anything I can fix, I may borrow a better multimeter and go though some of the tests again, but I'm fairly sure this is DOA, which  is heart wrenching as I've waited so so long to own one 

[gill2009]

Aug 30, 2014 14:42:16 GMT Pepperty said:

Aug 30, 2014 14:26:35 GMT hijack said:

If that is a brass thread that is being tested in the pic above and its not reading close to .0 Ohm you will have to send it back to the vendor. There is no way of getting those out, I think they are press fitted into the aluminium body.

No, no it isn't hijack. The one part that cannot be removed is the brass rings around the neck of the battery part. But on the other side it can all be removed, 1st the brass pin, then the metal 510 ring (from the underneath) using a gp spheroid fork. This leaves the body stripped down to brass grooves at other side/battery button and grooves at base on atty side




From all the probing my son tried out the metal grooves inside the body that take the 510 connector (theres about 5 twists) half conduct and other doesnt and readings are too high.

At first I couldn't work out how the brass firing button could be the end of the continuous loop ( I understood it being the start - from the brass screw and spring making a connection) but now I see that the mod is made from a solid block and that only the outside is non conductive, due to its anoxidising coat and the inner part which has the 510 fitment should be conductive back to the firing button... so least I now understand HOW just not WHY it wont work

At least this thread is interesting to anyone who wonders what the microstick looks like in detail..... I think I will have to contact miniecig Chels and ask him to read thread to see what my issue is 

You've all been so helpful, and its confusing but I cant see that its anything I can fix, I may borrow a better multimeter and go though some of the tests again, but I'm fairly sure this is DOA, which  is heart wrenching as I've waited so so long to own one 

     Rhydian!!  ???

[Pepperty]

oh shush! gill2009 it was the only mousemat I could find, dont shame me

[decoy]

stupid question
have you tried putting the 510 connector together,leave the base off and screwing an atty in
the 510 center pin should rise as you screw the atty in holding the mod upside down

[hijack]

Aug 30, 2014 14:42:16 GMT Pepperty said:

From all the probing my son tried out the metal grooves inside the body that take the 510 connector (theres about 5 twists) half conduct and other doesnt and readings are too high.

That is very odd Pep I cant for the life of me see why it would do that

Aug 30, 2014 14:42:16 GMT Pepperty said:

At first I couldn't work out how the brass firing button could be the end of the continuous loop ( I understood it being the start - from the brass screw and spring making a connection) but now I see that the mod is made from a solid block and that only the outside is non conductive, due to its anoxidising coat and the inner part which has the 510 fitment should be conductive back to the firing button... so least I now understand HOW just not WHY it wont work

At least this thread is interesting to anyone who wonders what the microstick looks like in detail..... I think I will have to contact miniecig Chels and ask him to read thread to see what my issue is 

That's right Pep the current will travel from the positive of the battery, along the brass strip, through the pin to the atty, through your coil then out the 510 threads into the aluminium body through to the switch and back to the battery when the screw on the switch touches the other end of the battery.

I feel like Dorothy following the yellow brick road

[Pepperty]

*sigh* picks up allen key (which is attached to an entire bike kit/weighs a ton) BRB decoy Tease-smiley

*edit* It cant be done, without the base plate, theres nothing to brace the pin and 510 atty connector against and the entire thing starts unscrewing from the body

[decoy]

sorry its just if it dosent rise then there is no way it will make a contact
it might be your not able to screw the atty in far nuff

[Wobblybootie]

Aug 30, 2014 15:04:55 GMT decoy said:

sorry its just if it doesn't rise then there is no way it will make a contact
it might be your not able to screw the atty in far nuff

But that does not explain the lack of continuity between the body and parts ...

[Pepperty]

Aug 30, 2014 15:04:55 GMT decoy said:

sorry its just if it dosent rise then there is no way it will make a contact
it might be your not able to screw the atty in far nuff

From using the multimeter my son confirms that the power seems to go OK from button/ brass screw to brass base bar, through to brass bolt into atty....its the outer part (silver bit of 510 connector) where it seems to start going pear shaped  ???

All I can say is I'm laying the blame on Chels for this being the second day I've had to fortify myself and >>>> sit and admire my non working microstick - which now doesnt feel beautiful and precious and brand new as I've unscrewed it so many times I'm starting to hate it