geordie_vaper
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Post by geordie_vaper on Jan 23, 2015 15:52:01 GMT
well thats a bit of a bummer i wasnt to fussed about a tc one just a kick with more oooomph say a 25watt version maybe china will make one
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2015 16:11:21 GMT
hopefully they are working on a kick 3 Quote from John Bellinger: 'We’re not doing it. The problem is some of the things that the DNA40 does better than DNA30 that it’s always keeping tabs on the heating coil. A kick wouldn’t work if you’re working out on an oil rig and it’s the middle of December and it’s 20 degrees below zero because it needs to know that at 20 degrees below zero that the coil’s at 20 degrees below zero. And fundamentally, with mech mods, once the circuit is broken by the button, on a bottom-button mod, or by disengaging the coil on a top-coil. I don’t want to be a party-pooper there but that’s really why we’re not doing a kick version. It works in sort of a symbiosis between the coil and the device so it’s either the device isn’t always on or the coil isn’t always connected.'I was hoping too but thinking about it running TC through a mech it will play up. but I don't work on an oil rig so try harder party pooper.....!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2015 16:11:53 GMT
will do jeffc I like the idea behind this one as the airflow screw can still be accessed and adjusted Yeah much better solution, plus can be used with the 4S kit as well. geordie_vaper I think he was referring only to the development of a temp protected Kick, not the kick in general.
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geordie_vaper
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Post by geordie_vaper on Jan 23, 2015 16:13:51 GMT
ahhh haaaa well there is still hope
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jan 23, 2015 16:24:01 GMT
ahhh haaaa well there is still hope Start emailing just in case they haven't thought it's worth it, I'm sure they would sell well especially with the Sub Tanks & Atlantis popularity. All the Evolv bashing lately makes me laugh as Kicks were so reliable I don't recall ever hearing about one failing.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2015 16:49:38 GMT
ahhh haaaa well there is still hope Start emailing just in case they haven't thought it's worth it, I'm sure they would sell well especially with the Sub Tanks & Atlantis popularity. All the Evolv bashing lately makes me laugh as Kicks were so reliable I don't recall ever hearing about one failing. The quote was from this Interview with Ward and Bellinger it takes a bit of wading through, but there are some interesting pieces, and it gives an insight into there thinking.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jan 23, 2015 18:15:47 GMT
The quote was from this Interview with Ward and Bellinger it takes a bit of wading through, but there are some interesting pieces, and it gives an insight into there thinking. Oliver: Circling back slightly to the power/heat and heat limitation: When you’re putting in higher wattages I presume what you’re actually doing ultimately is you’re getting the device hot more quickly, that’s the advantage of the higher wattage systems? John: No – that’s not it. And there’s actually a fairly excessive write-up I did in the non claim section of our patent. Essentially, if you had infinite wicking what you’re doing with higher wattage is that you’re actually generating more vapor. If you can wick it, the amount of vapor you get is directly proportional to the wattage you’re putting in exactly on a one to one basis. So given infinite wicking, twice as much wattage gives you twice as much vapor, and given infinite wicking it’s actually at the same temperature. What happens is you heat up the liquid to the boiling point, you apply a finite amount of power at the boiling point and then it turns into a vapor and goes off in the airstream. So you don’t need high temperature to get high wattages or to get high amounts of vapor because the vapor will always be at the boiling point.So we are wattage dominant. The DNA40 is a temperature protected system, not a temperature regulated system. In a temperature regulated system you might say: “Okay, I’m going to keep this playing at 410 degrees,” but you would have literally minimal to no control over how much vapor comes out: if that temperature’s above the boiling point it will simply boil off everything that gets to it immediately, which isn’t really what you want: that’s not very controllable. So what we do is we say, “At 21 you’re going to get a certain number of millilitres of use per hour or second or whatever,”. So you say: “I want this much vapor, that gives me this much nicotine per draw,” and then if it gets to the maximum temperature then and only then will it back off the wattage, and it will give you less vapor to hold it below that temperature.
Brandon: And the only time it would do that is if your wicking were constrained or your airflow were low.
John: The only time you should be hitting a high temperature is if there’s somthing non-optimal about your system. Otherwise you’ll be at the boiling point which is around 380–390F. It depends on the juice. So, for lack of a better word, what we’re doing with the wattage control is “direct dosing”.
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tim26
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Post by tim26 on Jan 23, 2015 18:21:28 GMT
I've got two k4 clones made by two different manufacturers one works fine on the Dna40 in TC the other was playing up constantly , it was jumping in and out of TC and the resistance was jumping from .22 to .4 ohms . The only difference I could see was the spring in the stable one was about twice the wire thickness of the unstable one . So I took the spare thick spring I got and put it in the unstable one and now they both work fine in TC . Seams to me the easiest and cheapest solution to the ohms changing is get a thicker stronger spring
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pyr0
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Post by pyr0 on Jan 30, 2015 11:26:43 GMT
Order arrived a few mins ago. Put the updated part into the KF4 clone I have from FT... Left the atty for 5-6 mins before putting back on my DNA40 and selecting new coil Set to 210C and 20W, the resistance is reading 0.16 ohms and it's vaping well I'll have to see if the resistance drifts at all over the course of the day, but I'm pretty sure something similar could be achieved by just using a small tube made out of brass or something instead of the spring.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2015 11:55:33 GMT
Order arrived a few mins ago. Put the updated part into the KF4 clone I have from FT... Left the atty for 5-6 mins before putting back on my DNA40 and selecting new coil Set to 210C and 20W, the resistance is reading 0.16 ohms and it's vaping well I'll have to see if the resistance drifts at all over the course of the day, but I'm pretty sure something similar could be achieved by just using a small tube made out of brass or something instead of the spring. Good news pyr0 I experienced some intermittent problems with my V4 (original) when i first got the DNA40, but I also had the same problems with other atties at the time, due in hindsight to my errors. I ordered one of these just to be sure, looks like it will be with me soon.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2015 15:39:49 GMT
Postie came with mine today pyr0 and yes a piece of copper microbore would be easy to work to the right size, then sit it on top of the A11 nut, which you still need for the 510 contact pin to screw into. When fitted the new bit make positive contact in the open position, and when closed it relies on the spring, so no need for it really. Can't be long before SM offer something similar.
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pyr0
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Post by pyr0 on Jan 30, 2015 15:47:20 GMT
My resistance has changed slightly over the day...
Over the course of the day I've seen 0.16 and 0.15 ohms and right now it's reading 0.13 ???
Still seems to be vaping ok at the moment though and the fluctuations seem less than with my bodged fix of pushing parts A10&A11 up by unscrewing the positive pin A1 and pushing it in until they make contact with B14
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jan 30, 2015 16:07:11 GMT
My resistance has changed slightly over the day... Over the course of the day I've seen 0.16 and 0.15 ohms and right now it's reading 0.13 ??? Still seems to be vaping ok at the moment though and the fluctuations seem less than with my bodged fix of pushing parts A10&A11 up by unscrewing the positive pin A1 and pushing it in until they make contact with B14 I would only worry if it went up, the DNA40 has a refinement mode where it tests the temp of the board and the resistance as it cools down and over time this better calibrates your coil.
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davetherayon
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Post by davetherayon on Jan 30, 2015 17:53:08 GMT
I had a ??? moment when the Subtank that was sitting pretty at 0.18R on one homebuild DNA40, went to 0.20 and gradually all the way up to 0.48! on the other. The negative lead needed seating more firmly as it happened.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2015 7:28:21 GMT
Since fitting the Steam Tuners mod and once settled at 0.14oms my K4 has been rock steady
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