ss mesh & best wire

[andyplatt62]

Hi all
I'm after advice on the best wire to get .

0.20 nickel chrome
0.15 nickel chrome
and what is A1 kanthal wire

Am sorted for the mesh gone for 400

[steve386]

I get all mine from here:-

wires.co.uk/acatalog/E-CIG_IATTY_ATOMIZER_WIRE.html

wires.co.uk/acatalog/ss_fabric.html

I went with the 400 mesh as well and it seems to do the job. I've had trouble using the 0.20 wire on the Provari though. It works great if I use any other device. Just received some 0.15 wire to see if that makes a difference.

[Batdragon (AKA Batty)]

Hi Andy,

I have some wire that I can send you a bit of to try out if you want, it is these specs:

Kanthal A-1 Resistance wire
Made by Hallstahammar Sweden
Maximum continuous temp- 2550 degrees F
Resistance- 13.81 ohm/ft 45.3 ohm/m.
Wire Diameter- 0.008" / 0.20 mm.
Wire Gauge- 32awg

Nichrome - Nickel 60% Chromium 16% Iron / balance , resistance wire
Maximum continuous temp- 2100 degrees F / 1150 degrees C
Resistance- 10.97 ohm/ft 35.98 ohms/m
Wire Diameter- 0.008" / 0.2 mm
Wire Gauge- 32awg

I believe that the differance between the two are that in some cases the Nichrome can stretch a bit under the heat and the contact might become loose, but that all depends on how it was put on etc.

From the spec's above you wil be able to work out what would be the best thickness for you. I am sure that there will be someone else that will give their own thoughts and experiances on the wire that they have used

[andyplatt62]

Brilliant. Thats helped a lot Thx

Should of come on this forum first instead of ukvapors all i got off them was ignorant snobby answers.

Again Thx

Love my new hobby, Just wished i'd started sooner

[andyplatt62]

Jun 24, 2012 7:51:04 GMT Batdragon (AKA Batty) said:

Hi Andy,

I have some wire that I can send you a bit of to try out if you want, it is these specs:

Kanthal A-1 Resistance wire
Made by Hallstahammar Sweden
Maximum continuous temp- 2550 degrees F
Resistance- 13.81 ohm/ft 45.3 ohm/m.
Wire Diameter- 0.008" / 0.20 mm.
Wire Gauge- 32awg

Nichrome - Nickel 60% Chromium 16% Iron / balance , resistance wire
Maximum continuous temp- 2100 degrees F / 1150 degrees C
Resistance- 10.97 ohm/ft 35.98 ohms/m
Wire Diameter- 0.008" / 0.2 mm
Wire Gauge- 32awg

I believe that the differance between the two are that in some cases the Nichrome can stretch a bit under the heat and the contact might become loose, but that all depends on how it was put on etc.

From the spec's above you wil be able to work out what would be the best thickness for you. I am sure that there will be someone else that will give their own thoughts and experiances on the wire that they have used

Don't have atty yet thx for offer , sounds like thats the stuff i want. I'll get back to you if i may.

[blakey]

Jun 24, 2012 7:48:33 GMT steve386 said:

I get all mine from here:-

wires.co.uk/acatalog/E-CIG_IATTY_ATOMIZER_WIRE.html

wires.co.uk/acatalog/ss_fabric.html

I went with the 400 mesh as well and it seems to do the job. I've had trouble using the 0.20 wire on the Provari though. It works great if I use any other device. Just received some 0.15 wire to see if that makes a difference.

Steve, heat the .2 wire up with a lighter till it glows orange before you make your coil, it becomes far more pliable and allows a more precise coil. The .2 has a higher resistance than the .15 so it means you can make more coils for the same ohms.

[steve386]

Jun 24, 2012 8:20:05 GMT blakey said:

Jun 24, 2012 7:48:33 GMT steve386 said:

I get all mine from here:-

wires.co.uk/acatalog/E-CIG_IATTY_ATOMIZER_WIRE.html

wires.co.uk/acatalog/ss_fabric.html

I went with the 400 mesh as well and it seems to do the job. I've had trouble using the 0.20 wire on the Provari though. It works great if I use any other device. Just received some 0.15 wire to see if that makes a difference.

Steve, heat the .2 wire up with a lighter till it glows orange before you make your coil, it becomes far more pliable and allows a more precise coil. The .2 has a higher resistance than the .15 so it means you can make more coils for the same ohms.

Good idea thanks Blakey. I'm also going to try the rizzla paper trick as well.

I think the main problem I'm having is the limited space in the Cyclon and LV for the coil and wick. I don't have the same problem on the Genesis mini. That works a treat on the Provari as well.

[blakey]

Jun 24, 2012 8:24:25 GMT steve386 said:

Jun 24, 2012 8:20:05 GMT blakey said:

Steve, heat the .2 wire up with a lighter till it glows orange before you make your coil, it becomes far more pliable and allows a more precise coil. The .2 has a higher resistance than the .15 so it means you can make more coils for the same ohms.

Good idea thanks Blakey. I'm also going to try the rizzla paper trick as well.

I think the main problem I'm having is the limited space in the Cyclon and LV for the coil and wick. I don't have the same problem on the Genesis mini. That works a treat on the Provari as well.

I know it sound silly steve but are you making coils the have too low a resistance for the provari to deal with?
If space is an issue then the .15 wire will be a better option because you will need less of it to make you coil.

[steve386]

Jun 24, 2012 8:27:30 GMT blakey said:

Jun 24, 2012 8:24:25 GMT steve386 said:

Good idea thanks Blakey. I'm also going to try the rizzla paper trick as well.

I think the main problem I'm having is the limited space in the Cyclon and LV for the coil and wick. I don't have the same problem on the Genesis mini. That works a treat on the Provari as well.

I know it sound silly steve but are you making coils the have too low a resistance for the provari to deal with?
If space is an issue then the .15 wire will be a better option because you will need less of it to make you coil.

Thats what I thought. There is hardly any room at all in the Cyclon. Trying to get the wick to not touch the posts is hard enough, without trying to fit a decent number of coils in. I'm sure it just takes practice though. Collie seems to have got the hang of it now, so I will have to get him to show me when he is back from holiday.

I'm going to try the .15 wire tonight with the rizla paper.

[Batdragon (AKA Batty)]

Jun 24, 2012 8:20:05 GMT blakey said:

Steve, heat the .2 wire up with a lighter till it glows orange before you make your coil, it becomes far more pliable and allows a more precise coil. The .2 has a higher resistance than the .15 so it means you can make more coils for the same ohms.

Did you mean that the other way round Blakey, in that the .2 has a lower resistance than the .15 per foot?

[Batdragon (AKA Batty)]

What is the Rizla paper trick? ???

[blakey]

Yep, ass about face as usual :-[

[steve386]

Jun 24, 2012 9:07:53 GMT Batdragon (AKA Batty) said:

What is the Rizla paper trick? ???

[blakey]

The rizla method works very well but if the mesh is oxidised well enough in the first place its not required. Personally I dont bother with it but if you continually get shorting out then it'll provide a little extra carbon insulation.

[Batdragon (AKA Batty)]

I think that it is a good idea, but like Blakey said, if the mesh is done right then you should not need it. As for making the coils, I though the use of a screw from a pc was a nice idea, where the wire wrapped in the threads gives a perfect coil, that can be slipped over the wick. It was mentioned in one of the threads on here but I cant find it atm.