giles
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Post by giles on Mar 6, 2014 3:37:17 GMT
One day someone will invent a better battery, put 1000 mah in a cigalike with enough room left for 3ml of juice and a bdc head.
And we'll still talk about how pretty a mech mod is with a penny on it, and how to wire 12 pico coils in parallel.
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giles
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Post by giles on Mar 6, 2014 2:35:31 GMT
Mea culpa.
I've advised people to go for organic, wouldn't do so now having thought about it a bit more following a similar post to yours on another thread. I don't feel particularly guilty about the advice I gave though - organic isn't much more expensive, a pack of either lasts forever, and as someone said elsewhere, maybe if they know it is going in a pack called organic they'll be a little more careful about what they do to it. As myths go it has been a pretty harmless one.
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giles
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Post by giles on Mar 6, 2014 2:23:53 GMT
Seems to me that clearos have been getting a lot better - dual coil, bottom coil, leak-free - and have a vape approaching the quality of rbas. Probably not of a kayfun with cotton & microcoil, but we didn't have that few months back either.
If you are listing game changers for the 'vaping masses' then I nominate putting an ego, charger & CE4 in a blister pack and selling it for less than a tenner.
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Post by giles on Mar 6, 2014 1:59:28 GMT
Sorry richardb2, didn't mean to make it sound complicated! I just mean that I bent the wire tails up and back and twisted them a bit, so that I had three wires twisted together going down to the base. Three wires twisted together gives you less than the resistance of the one wire by itself. I found that a bit easier than joining res to no res. But however you do it will be more hassle than the Igo-L. .28 wire (or shiny's 3.0) is a relatively low resistance wire to use for making a coil. We use that for microcoils, which have a lot of turns (maybe 10), and would otherwise have a resistance which is too high. Ordinary coils use maybe 0.16 wire, and yes, twisting three of that would be a longer way from no-res. The reason people use no-res on penny/nautilus is that such devices have long tails between the coil and the base. So if you just use res wire you effectively have a high-res atty with a lot of the power being delivered a long way from the air-hole, which is thus wasted. So you get less power to the coil itself. I pump up the volts on my vamo or SVD to compensate, and on my set-up it manages to get enough power to the coil. I don't know how it would work with a mech mod.
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giles
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Post by giles on Mar 6, 2014 0:43:40 GMT
zerosphereI can't see that the X6 would have anything to do with the leaking, unless maybe it is making you suck on it too hard - is it really hard work to draw on? You could try a different head in the protank, but I suspect you have a bad protank. These days I think people would suggest some form of Iclear 30 rather than a Nova. I used to use (& abuse) Novas a lot. They didn't leak unless you turned them upside down, in which case they often did.
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Post by giles on Mar 6, 2014 0:23:33 GMT
Something else to think about when buying an RBA - what material for the tank? I got steel with the Nautilus, but I hate not seeing how much juice is left. So I bought a big glass tank & chimney extension, cost me nearly as much as the Nautilus did.
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Post by giles on Mar 6, 2014 0:18:00 GMT
I don't know what your dripper is richardb2 but I imagine cotton wool would work fine. I use cotton wool & microcoil in my Igo-L. I bought organic cotton wool pads from Boots, they work fine. The Golden Greek doesn't use res/no-res wire in his videos, but I think most other people do. The construction is the same as my Nautilus. I actually have all res in that atm, but I double-twist the wire, and it is .28, for the microcoil, so it is not that high res in the first place. And it is still a faff compared to the kayfun. I haven't used the Nautilus recently - it has started tasting a bit burnt and I haven't bothered to rewick it.
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Post by giles on Mar 5, 2014 21:38:46 GMT
I use organic cotton wool, but if you read the blurb on the pack it is all about the farming, and nothing about the subsequent treatment. Then again it is not much more expensive and a pack lasts all year. @yinyang reckons that virtually all cotton wool is bleached, and I see no reason to disbelieve him.
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Post by giles on Mar 5, 2014 18:43:19 GMT
One thought if you are going for a kayfun, which is personally I'd avoid the Rocket clone (or anything else with a brass deck). It's one of those things that people argue about the danger of, but it isn't that much cheaper.
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Post by giles on Mar 5, 2014 12:19:04 GMT
That is a deliberately scary article. It all depends how it is implemented, but it seems unlikely to me that they will bother to control it to that extent. For instance "tamper-proof" doesn't usually mean in law that you can't actually tamper with it if you really want to, just that the design is such that you'd have to do it deliberately and there'd be evidence that you'd done it. Ego/CE4 type combos are already explicitly allowed.
The 20mg limit is a serious problem, and 10ml bottles are an irritation, but I don't they'll try to take vv/vw off the market.
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Post by giles on Mar 5, 2014 11:47:01 GMT
richardb2First, type of wick - (main) types are silica, cotton wool, mesh. Silica you know. I don't think that cotton wool tastes very different to silica, but some prefer it. Cotton wool draws better than silica - will deliver more juice to your coil - which makes it good for setups with a lot of wire compared to the resistance, like dual coil and microcoil. It is also cheap (just buy balls from Boots), and has the advantage that if it gets a bit burnt it is easy to pull out of your coil, rinse & dry-burn the coil, and put in some new cotton wool - you don't have to build a new coil often. You can't dry-burn the cotton wool itself. Some prefer the taste to silica, but I don't think it is very different. Mesh (mostly used in Aga-type atys, but can be used in anything) has a distinctive effect on the taste which has its fans. Not all that pricey. A bit more of a faff than cotton wool or silica, but not much. I now only use it in a hybrid with cotton wool on a fruity juice. I think there are 4 main types of RBA - Penny/nautilus, aga/oddy, kayfun/russian, and spheroid. Penny/nautilus are usually a bit more expensive and need res/no/res connections, and in general are more of a faff to build. Aga/oddy are cheap & easy to use, but if you turn them upside down the juice falls out. Kayfun/russian in my opinion give the best vape and are easy to recoil and leak-free. But originals are expensive and clones mostly seem to need work after you get them - cleaning swarf out of the tubes, maybe pfte tape on the filling screw, maybe redrill or some other trick to get rid if the whistle. But once that is done they are great. I don't have a spheroid. I recommend a tobeco kayfun clone and cotton wool in micro-coil. Enjoy!
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Post by giles on Mar 4, 2014 23:27:52 GMT
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Post by giles on Mar 4, 2014 10:05:47 GMT
It could be the coiling - neighbouring loops sometimes touching, sometimes not - but ohms will change a little depending on how hot the wire is and how gunked up it is. Using variable watts it shouldn't matter much.
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Post by giles on Mar 4, 2014 10:00:03 GMT
You're not getting much response on this one are you myztik? Might have done better with vtr in the thread title. I don't have a vtr (& mostly use rebuildables these days) but I bookmarked this sometime back that you might like to look at.
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Post by giles on Mar 3, 2014 23:52:15 GMT
I like google, but I could always use google anyway.
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