Greigster
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 22:28:44 GMT
Soz Taz , your post slipped past me, but I can see VB has posted the link  |
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Greigster
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 21:44:54 GMT
No probs Mow, if you need any wire to tide you over let me know as I have several sizes, I can pop some through your door.
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 20:04:48 GMT
What size wire have you been using Mow
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 19:53:30 GMT
The tread title was bit of a giveaway wasn't it   |
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 19:50:45 GMT
I fully agree tim26. it is just a number and we can experiment to find our own sweet spot at whatever the combinations. |
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 19:39:21 GMT
I have spent this afternoon checking at what point will it burn the Japanese Cotton. I cleaned the rebuildable deck of the Kanger Subtank Mini in the ultrasonic cleaner and with the cotton still wet with water I fired it for one minute on a 0.16 ohm ni200 .25mm. coil. at 20w Started at 420f and worked up by 10f increments, each for 1 minute. From 440f upwards, the cotton was bone dry and it was not until I reached 500f that it gave the mere wisp of a burnt smell. So right up to and including 490f , the cotton was protected from burning. I had thought that cotton burnt at above 420f. I have been using it at 420f and have been getting a very cool vape, I now feel safe to increase the temperature upwards without burning. Was you testing for burnt smell or scorched cotton? When I first got a DNA40 I think the cotton started to mark very slighty at 440f.....I'm not too worried anymore if I can't taste it, was vaping Afro D while walking the dog one cold morning at 470f, was nice, like a warm swig of whisky.... Both @letsavit and cotton was unmarked upto and including 490f but at 500f, a barely noticeable change in colour. |
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 19:33:11 GMT
dna40 are not only for not burning cotton, its more for dont produce bad think at some certain point when liquid are start to boil, liquid on some temperature can brake into some bad molecules, that are toxic. I understand that matie33 but we will not know the toxicity of home made liquids. We can only judge what we can taste, and whilst it tastes good........... |
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 19:29:46 GMT
Recoiled a Kanger Subtank OCC coilhead with .29mm. ni200, 8 wraps around 3mm gave me .20 ohms although "Steam Engine" told me 8 wraps would give me 0.14 ohms.
been playing with the numbers and at the moment I am on 390f at 30watts and that is a much warmer vape than anything I have tried so far.
Will play some more over the weekend and report back.
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 19:17:51 GMT
I have spent this afternoon checking at what point will it burn the Japanese Cotton.
I cleaned the rebuildable deck of the Kanger Subtank Mini in the ultrasonic cleaner and with the cotton still wet with water I fired it for one minute on a 0.16 ohm ni200 .25mm. coil. at 20w
Started at 420f and worked up by 10f increments, each for 1 minute.
From 440f upwards, the cotton was bone dry and it was not until I reached 500f that it gave the mere wisp of a burnt smell. So right up to and including 490f , the cotton was protected from burning.
I had thought that cotton burnt at above 420f.
I have been using it at 420f and have been getting a very cool vape, I now feel safe to increase the temperature upwards without burning.
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 14:48:21 GMT
Thanks for the explanation guys, it always helps those of us that don't know WTF you are talking about.  |
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 14:24:52 GMT
Is there an initial high power boost at the start of the trace?
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 14:19:13 GMT
robby, can you explain what the trace`s mean...are they good or bad? What are they showing before the point of dry coil.
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 13:56:09 GMT
Not quite sure of the post significance ??? but I do adore Enya
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Post by Greigster on Jan 31, 2015 13:40:42 GMT
Well done mowjo, I will pop round later and you can re-coil all mine  |
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Post by Greigster on Jan 30, 2015 20:28:18 GMT
Subtank here with nickel recoiled OCC head. It's easy to rebuild the head once you get the knack of lining up the coil with the juice holes in the middle, to hold it in place with a drill bit while you get the leads secured. Very stable, the ohms reading only goes adrift over quite a time (I change coils weekly) and the vape quality is very good indeed. What id is your coil Dave? Have not stripped the OOC coil so just wondering what size drill bit goes through the juice holes to hold the coil. |
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