lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 5, 2013 18:21:22 GMT
Why do I need an extra tube? You don't need the longer tube. I think robby mentioned that using it in 18650 mode, to him it looks better with the longer tube instead of the shorter one extended.
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 5, 2013 18:17:25 GMT
If anyone does want both tubes, I'm guessing that within the next week or so, FT will probably do the whole kit (SVD, 2 iclear30 + 3 spare heads, both tubes). At the moment, Zainy do it for $60.
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 5, 2013 17:55:44 GMT
Ordered bits and bobs last week . Left a comment for them to stock iClear 16 and 30 if possible they asked for a link to be provided . Can i ask some kindly soul to do this .... I am unable to link anything !!!! Again if enough ask for these they may oblige Requested both of those a couple of weeks ago. Given that they're stocking a lot of genuine Innokin hardware now, I think it's only a matter of time.
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 5, 2013 17:45:42 GMT
Thanks. Karma - what don't you like about having the 2 modes? Well, I'm a bit of an airhead, so having to choose between VV and VW was more than enough for me without RMS and the other thingy mode It appears from a quick google that this is set in RMS mode which is a good thing!!
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 5, 2013 17:39:28 GMT
Thanks. Karma - what don't you like about having the 2 modes?
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 5, 2013 17:27:47 GMT
Does the SVD have NO1 and NO2 modes lke the Vamo?
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 4, 2013 23:50:07 GMT
Now that looks a great starter kit if ever I saw one
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 4, 2013 18:48:06 GMT
Does anyone know how to dismatle the connector end of the spring loaded ones without destroying the mechanism ? If not I'll risk sacrificing one of them to find out If you unscrew the atomiser head, you can poke a mini screwdriver in from the top, push down and the centre pin will fall out.
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 4, 2013 17:31:05 GMT
This is a very good price considering it comes with different tips and solder. The clamp arms are also very handy too. Would buy one if I didn't already have a soldering station!! Personally I still use leaded solder as I find it better than the non-leaded.
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 4, 2013 16:30:51 GMT
Nicvape have had 15-20% off with past codes. Are there any codes available for them for more discount than the 10% AAEC?
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 3, 2013 22:25:38 GMT
Oops! That's what I meant. Thanks for correcting it I was trying to rule voltage out of the equation to see the different the 4? coil would draw more or less power than the 3? coil to give the same target output in watts (when using a VV/VW device).
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 3, 2013 21:47:33 GMT
Are you Kanger carto users all using LR?
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 3, 2013 21:40:13 GMT
Thanks for the Kanger suggestion I think I'll order some of those to try next.
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 3, 2013 21:22:31 GMT
simply, it's the current that matters.... V=IR, so if v=4, r=3, i=(4/3)=1.33 Power (W) =I^2 R or IV, so W=4x1.33=5.3 watts (rough numbers, no calculator ) but, if v=5, 5=3i, i=5/3, = 1.66 the higher the current draw, the quicker the battery drains. The mAh or milliAmphours is the capacity of the battery, so at a drawn current of 1.66A will empty the battery faster than 1.33 amps So working backwards from this, target power being 5.32W and resistance of coil is 4? instead of 3?: 5.32=(I^2)/4 I=?(5.32/4)=1.15W So to achieve the 5.32W the 4? higher resistance coil will draw 0.18A less than the 1.33A that the 3? coil draws. Have I got that right?!! My brain hurts
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lemental
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Post by lemental on Jun 3, 2013 20:46:46 GMT
Thanks Romelee I will work my way through this later. I think my head is exploding trying to remember formulae!
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