clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 15, 2011 12:08:26 GMT
In standard notation, 470R is 470ohm. 470K is 470,000ohm.
The "R" is used to denote both that it's a resistor, and as the decimal point. "K" is used for kilohms (1K = 1000ohms), and also as the point/comma.
So, 4R7 is 4.7ohms 47R is 47ohms 470R is 470ohms 4K7 is 4,700ohms
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 15, 2011 7:36:54 GMT
Try using some thinner (higher resistance) wire. There's a seller on eBay listing "Kanthal" resistance wire in various diameters. He quotes the resistance per metre of the different sizes.
As you've noticed, the resistance depends on the length of the wire. Forming a coil just allows you to pack more wire into a shorter effective length (distance between the connectors). If the coils touch, you are shortening the length of the wire. Using thinner wire will allow you to wind a 5-turn coil with a higher resistance.
I think that the Bulli uses 0.20 wire. Try using 0.13 - it's approximately double the resistance of 0.20.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 14, 2011 4:42:55 GMT
Arry has pretty much perfected tank design. All I've done is tweaked it. My tanks are very slightly smaller externally, but can hold more juice - the end caps are shorter. The carto tank holds 33% more. The mini carto tank on the Riva battery pushes it to the limit, using thinner section o-rings. The "streamlined" part between the tank and the batt is purely aesthetic. I wanted a smaller tank, as the standard 20mm just looks silly on a 510 batt.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 13, 2011 22:12:06 GMT
DIY cross slide and feed? Sounds interesting. Finished my "family" of tanks. 4 different types, along with 2 Arry originals:
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 13, 2011 18:18:19 GMT
Not sure I'd want to use a tool rest and graver to try and turn accurate components. Sure, it can be done, but a cross slide makes it an awful lot easier. I've seen old-school watch and clockmakers using gravers, and it looks like magic to me. I've tried, and nearly took an eye out!
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 13, 2011 4:52:12 GMT
Thanks verey. I'm pleased with the way the tanks have turned out. I've also made a mini carto tank (16mm diameter for my Riva 510) and a clearo tank. They take a couple of hours to make, and the most expensive parts are the o-rings!
I was fortunate to get my lathe (Cowells CW90) paid for by my employer as part of a re-training grant when I was made redundant 13 years ago. They offered to send me to a career consultant. I said I already knew what I wanted to do (train as a clockmaker), and would they pay for some tools and a distance learning course. They offered me £1500, and I spent most of it on the lathe! It's an excellent machine, but probably a bit OTT for machining plastic parts. Some of the Chinese hobby lathes are pretty good, I believe, or a Unimat. A wise investment for your mod business - go for it!
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 12, 2011 23:15:04 GMT
Thanks johnnyjames and verey. I've ordered some wire (0.13 and 0.16), as well as some G/F kerosene lamp tubular wick. I'll get some stove seal, too. I'm planning to make something like the French "Clearome" tank - I've managed to build some Map/Arry-style tanks, so this will take it one stage further. An extra "deck" to carry the coil & wick, and some parts from a clearo. So many mods, and so little time! My version of a carto tank, with filler screw, alongside an original Arry tank:
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 12, 2011 22:08:25 GMT
I've got all the bits I need to make a box mod, but I'm still looking for a case. Needs to be fairly large to fit all the bits - 2s 800mAH LiPo, I don't know what you mean by LiPo, but you should a pair of 3.7V cells. "LiPo" is short for lithium polymer, one of several types of 3.7v (nominal) cells. Most modders use one or two single 3.7v cells, like you say. I've got quite a few twin cell (2s, or two cells in series) packs that I bought for small RC planes. They are surplus to requirements for flying, so I'll try them in a PV mod. Should do the job nicely, and take up a bit less space than a pair of AA-sized cells. An added benefit is I'll be able to fast charge them - they can take a lot more abuse than tube cells. Up to 4C charge and 20C discharge for the latest type. Cheap, too.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 12, 2011 20:07:46 GMT
I want to have a go at making a rebuildable tank attie. I've been pointed in the right direction for the wire, so I just need to find some wick. Any ideas?
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 11, 2011 19:56:02 GMT
Thanks for the links, verey.
Not sure why my post irks you, though. I won't name names, in case I've got the wrong end of the stick, or missed something. I wouldn't "call someone out" on a forum, or on their posts. Since I won't name names, or even make a hint at the mod in question, I really don't see how that's gossiping. I merely stated that all I ask is that I'm mentioned if someone uses my ideas, which I have always shared freely. That has always happened on other forums that I frequent, but it appeared to not always be the case on vaping forums. Maybe I'm wrong, and I missed the credit. Maybe the poster forgot. I have no idea.
If I am out of line, I apologise. It's not my intention to put anyone's nose out of joint. I'm here to learn and share.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 11, 2011 18:59:14 GMT
In the past, I've frequented RC crawling and watch collecting fora. I've always shared my mods/customising tips/repair methods. I built a couple of 6ch transmitters, converting RC plane stick sets to steering wheel, with special features for crawling. I taught myself to refinish watch cases and bracelets, and re-lume watch hands, as well as repair movements. I've posted everything about these, and answered many PMs. A couple of things, I've gone on to make a few quid from, after forum members have asked to buy them. No matter how much info you post, 90%+ of people will rather you did it for them, as they lack the time or skills. All I ever asked is that I was credited with helping/providing the inspiration if someone went on to use my ideas. I saw a mod idea on the other UK vaping forum a few weeks ago, which turned up here, posted by a different person. Granted, he'd changed it a bit, but the original poster who provided the inspiration (and who first used it in a different application a long time ago) wasn't credited.
I suppose that if I invented something that was a sure-fire money spinner, I'd want to hold something back. If I found a unique product, like the perfect mod case, I'd probably buy a load in and sell them on to the hobby-modder.
I've got an idea for a case, but it's a little bit too big. It'll do for my first VV mod, to prove that the electronics and layout work. I suppose if I can't find the perfect case, I can always make one - I'm pretty handy with sheet styrene. Very time consuming, though!
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 11, 2011 16:55:24 GMT
Thanks for the hints. Had a look at the project boxes on eBay yesterday - found some the right size, but they aren't very stylish. I'll try searching for "battery boxes". Not tried Maplins.
It's a shame that people who post about their one-offs don't say where they got their boxes from. I can see why a vendor would keep quiet about their sources, but not hobby-modders.
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clockworks
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Post by clockworks on Jun 11, 2011 14:17:34 GMT
I've got all the bits I need to make a box mod, but I'm still looking for a case. Needs to be fairly large to fit all the bits - 2s 800mAH LiPo, step-down regulator, voltage display, low battery alarm, switches and internal tank. Needs to be around 90x50x30, and I'd prefer rounded corners. It doesn't need a battery compartment.
Any ideas?
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Post by clockworks on Jun 9, 2011 17:41:34 GMT
LF's RY4 is very nice, but a bit too sweet for me. I mix it with their RY3, and just a smidgen of OK Smokey DF Amber Leaf to give it some bite.
How does LF's RY4 flavour concentrate compare with the ready-mixed? Is there a comparable concentrate? I made the mistake of buying a large bottle of RY4 from Healthcabin. Not to my liking at all, but OK as a base for adding F'Art tobacco flavours.
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Post by clockworks on Jun 8, 2011 11:49:02 GMT
If you can't get the solder to "run", either the components (or your iron) are dirty, or you aren't getting them hot enough.
Sanding, followed by a wipe with isopropyl alcohol (or vodka) takes care of the cleaning. Don't forget to clean the tip of the iron - a damp sponge or tissue is good for this. Don't sand the iron, as they are usually plated. Getting the work hot enough means using a 20+watt iron, and holding the work in something that won't conduct the heat away. Wooden blocks, or strips of wood between the jaws of a small vice, work best for me. Holding the work directly in a vice, or using pliers, means you need to use a much bigger iron.
It's vital to tin the parts before you try and join them. Tinning just means applying a thin coat of solder to each part. Clean the part and the iron, touch the solder (use multicore electrical solder with the flux built-in, not plumber's solder, which needs separate flux) to the iron, heat the work with the tinned iron, and touch the solder to the work, not to the iron. The solder will flow, leaving a nice shiny coating.
Once both parts are tinned (the connector and the wire), put a little more solder on the iron, and touch the tip to the connector. As soon as the solder starts to flow, touch the wire to the connector, keeping the iron in place until the solder flows into the joint. Remove the iron, and hold the wire in place until the joint cools.
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