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Hmmm - Snake Oil - Must change my sig to "Happiness is Snake Oil in a warm Kayfun" - Saying that... toilet duck, old grease, detergent - all adjectives that prove taste is subjective.
And that's the key here - taste is subjective and that includes subjective to where you are in the tastebud recovery process... So don't bin the juice... You might well like it in two months time,
Mrs Lords

• Custard Cream - really rather nice - might buy more....
• Navy Cut - a good strong tobacco
• Hot Toddy - loved this and wished they still did it.
• Ginger Nut - a gamble that paid off, although I binned the first bit I put in my atty - when I tried it again three months later....
• Kendal Mint Cake - what the heck was I thinking?
• Druide - wowza - don't try too young or two old though
• Seville Marmalade (yuk, yuk, and double yuk = 4*yuk)
• Pontifract Cakes - didn't press the buttons I thought it would.

Ask someone else who's been fortunate enough to try that selection and they will write something quite different.

The type of clearo makes for a big difference, as does the wattage of the vape (in simplest terms, lower resistance head in the clearo makes for greater power / shorter battery and either improved or ruined juice)

The vaping journey is one of experimentation - stay with it and, like others said, try and get to a good B&M shop where you can taste until you've found some - then expect your tastes to change...

Never give up.

A reprehensible form of flattery :-(

No act of kindness, however small, is ever wasted

Strip it, soak what doesn't have o'rings or paint with vodka... Alt accept o'ring degradation. I use Isopropyl Alcohol diluted to ~70% (I have a small apple sauce jar with it in sitting on a high shelf in the garage along with my nic base, etc.) - I dump what I can into the jar and then use cotton buds / tissue on the bits near the sensitive stuff. You can use hot water with washing up liquid but it's not as effective in cleaning it and I'm not absolutely certain it won't interact with the  o'rings. 
 Make sure you lube the o'rings  regardless of how you clean.

 Still awaiting mine - I'd love to hear what you make of yours.

You probably know all of this:

Moving to mech's you have so much more control - heartedly recommend either Stingray or Nemesis clones... (the real thing if you can both afford and source one).

Mechs are much shorter because there's no circuitry (and nowt to go wrong)

You may have to tidy up the milling of the retaining pin slot with a file to stop the button crunch but that's a two minute job and rewards with a smooth fire button.

Use a fuse to start with (just for confidence) if you're using an RBA / RDA. I have a couple of spares and am happy to send you one (sending the other to little bro who's vaping conversion has been accelerated by the gift of a KFL clone - he won't go back me thinks)

Use a kick if you want the VW control - Kick 2 will give you more battery life because the cut-out is closer to the battery safe voltage limit (normally around 2.7V these days). It will also give you thermal protection. For that reason as well, batteries will last longer in a mech (no cut-out, you can tell when it's getting short).

I like short mods so tend to use 18350's - and I always have two mods with me... I change batteries regardless at night and tend to change one at some point during the day...

AW batteries, although with the 18350's are only 700mAH (rather than the efest 800mAH) will last a little longer because the internal resistance of the battery is less.

Although you can use protected batteries, if you're not vaping at crazy amp drain (serious sub-ohm) then you may as well use IMR which are a safer chemical composition.

On the subject of battery life, moving to mechs means that you have more control of the material (and thus natural resistance of the mod). And you can get copper or brass which builds up a lovely patina if you're of the inclination not to polish (but keep the threads free of oxidisation).

When I bought a cheap second hand Chi-You clone, I retired my SVD and VTR within a fortnight.

I heartedly recommend the m-vapes Phantom Brass Stingray, btw - so very very happy with mine.

Tom

I'd thought about the price difference thing a fair bit - and I wonder if the end product price has a lot to do with the flavouring concentrates used when playing with <12mg/ml solutions.
Seems to me that the nicotine base isn't the most expensive thing in play here (but, given that my journey into mixing consists solely of buying everything I need and no actual experience...).
Of course, when it comes to retail price vs cost, cost has to include volume savings, distribution methods and the producers own cost of living / salary... The final component is, of course, profit.

Does anyone know how many tests the E-cigarette Refill Nicotine Quantitative Test Kit sold by Oxford ChemServe is good for?

Thanks Matt.
Done (I have a feeling I'll now get a message from everyone who subscribes this way:) )