calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 15, 2016 9:14:00 GMT
What? These guys are selling PG and VG "pharmaceutical grade, suitable for vaping" at a price of £5.50 including p&p. That's even cheaper than Boots value glycerin (they've hoiked the price up in the shops to £2.29 for 200ml, just been to a Boots to restock)! Anyone had dealings with them, positive or negative? They have Vaper feedback about VG here and looks ok..Tempted darrantchemicals.co.uk/vegetable-glycerine
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 14, 2016 18:44:38 GMT
I just popped round the side of the house to see what had been done. The work looks neat. That's the good part The aerial, lets just say, I cant find anything that looks that cheap for more than ten quid on amazon Poles cost ten quid, I live near Boston, so we have plenty in the area. We could have paid one to sit on our roof Twenty quids worth of kit, on the invoice over £200 with fitting At this stage, I'm honestly considering, hiring a set of ladders for a day, buying a few meters of coax and a decent aerial Then some man sized nappies for my fear of ladders Your'e covered by the Belmont Tx in Lincs Lee and I think you would pick up ok without the amplifier as the colour shown in the link below is green...good signal strength countywide. ukfree.tv/transmitters/tv/BelmontI lived at Coningsby, Stixwould and Pinchbeck in the 70's and 80's. I picked up with 2 antennas at Pinchbeck both Yorks TV and Central TV. Goto Screwfix and get Labgear stuff...its UK designed and I think was based in Cambridge area. £200 is about right for a rigger of TV stuff. The antenna is regionally specified...and should be with your signal strength (green) no more than £25 to £30. I use satellite coax cable for all this work (TV and Sat) which is double screened and about 7mm dia. And is black to prevent UV penetration.
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 14, 2016 17:47:46 GMT
I should add to my post above that from an area transmitter (DTV) there are multiple service providers...aka channels. Largely sh8t of course. The power level transmitted for each channel varies dramatically with the highest power level for the BBC and its 3 channels of nonsense. The state broadcaster has the money for the best hardware...pity about the fleshware!
I note aerial fitters put an antenna amp on a mast almost by default. If you only need BBC and ITV that probably is not necessary unless you are in a fringe area. Also, it stops some picture pixellation here and there and I won't go into that. They simply try to keep the signal level high at the TV socket.
It could be a bad joint in the installation. I have never suffered storm damage on any TV or Sat antenna over 30 years... I suspect I will now though?
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 14, 2016 17:19:35 GMT
I always fit my own antennae and TV cable systems..all of it Lee. £700 is a bit stiff to say the very, very least... An act of God is what did it I'd say and that perhaps knackered the antenna amp and its power unit. Its not a lot of work to correct. Amp is about £20 max from Screwfix (Labgear stuff). Not sure consumer rights come into this...more like a company helping PDQ in order to gain custom.
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 11, 2016 19:03:16 GMT
If it's an improvement on the smy from gearbest i will be You had a purchase acknowledgment from eFun yet @johanino testing tagging. The symbol @ puts a following uppercase character to lower case..nutty website editors! and names are not names..sort of?
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 11, 2016 14:37:08 GMT
Err..um: Looks like Heatvape snuffed it mid last year: www.facebook.com/heatvape/website also gone: www.heatvape.com/The Invader mini has a fixed power centre pin (no springy thing) hence the top collar to fit the tank on right. Also no USB socket...all this in the name of waterproofing.
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 10, 2016 9:07:06 GMT
Thanks for the help guys, Microsoft Support has solved the problem. What was the problem..briefly
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 10, 2016 8:50:16 GMT
Is it the same after a hard reboot...power off and restart Yes it is I have rebooted about 4 times now and still the same. Does it open when pressing the Keyboard Windows Button between Ctrl and Alt ?
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 10, 2016 7:45:42 GMT
Hi Anyone know why the windows icon on the bottom left of screen will not work when I left click on the mouse, it will open another box when I right click the mouse but does not show what I need to look at? tsoko Is it the same after a hard reboot...power off and restart
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 9, 2016 19:25:40 GMT
Looks like a PWM motor controller which is operating at mains volts. In my experience of similar controllers its not worth attempting a DIY repair. The components themselves are likely awkward to get hold of (if marked?) and not necessary to design spec. Its the world of Triacs, Diacs and SCRs. Its also a safety issue at mains potential. Is the motor ok? A new controller could be killed by a bad motor. Washing machines are similarly driven... a microprocessor does the job of the variable pot. Im not sure about the motor so im going to bite the bullet and order a new board and motor from Proxxon. The controller should be the sacrificial link between the motor and the mains. The fuse doing the mains disconnect primarily. I usually inspect a motor..brushes and visual state of the armature. Not necessarily changing the brushes but cleaning the armature to make sure its not damaged from arcing/wear. The manufacturer should know the failure type and advise?
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 9, 2016 19:03:18 GMT
Looks like a PWM motor controller which is operating at mains volts. In my experience of similar controllers its not worth attempting a DIY repair. The components themselves are likely awkward to get hold of (if marked?) and not necessary to design spec. Its the world of Triacs, Diacs and SCRs. Its also a safety issue at mains potential.
Is the motor ok? A new controller could be killed by a bad motor.
Washing machines are similarly driven... a microprocessor does the job of the variable pot.
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 9, 2016 9:03:13 GMT
Its the variable performance of authentic Kanger coils that disappointed me first (leaky & short life). I got them from FT but not altogether impressed, so won't buy them in UK. Onto Aspire and with clone coils...seriously hit and miss so moving back to the RTA deck stuff.
I might try authentic Aspire coils from FT because its likely I can dismantle them as shown on the Youtube vid:
At some point I'll try ceramics...this cotton cooking stuff is limited really.
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 8, 2016 19:30:45 GMT
Stuck a review of clone coil heads for the Aspire Triton 1 on FT yesterday. Am surprised its passed inspection and published. I had 10 a couple of months back which were good...this lot = crap: (yep cheapo is cheapo largely) Replacement Coil Head for Triton Clearomizer (5-Pack) www.fasttech.com/products/0/10015701/2994600-replacement-coil-head-for-triton-clearomizer-5REVIEW: These appear to be made by Steam Tribe. The 15 I just received are anyway. Problems are: On pre-juicing the cotton and assembling to tank, within 15 minutes or so of vaping they begin to taste of burnt cotton and quickly become acrid. So far I have 5 that have done this. I tried to dismantle them as per the Youtube vid...don't bother, they are designed to destruct! Opening another packet of 5 my eLeaf 60W registers "No Atomiser" on 3 of them. I note from the attempted dismantle project that the coil unit is in fact two metal sleeves. The inner has two vertical slots that should align with the outer sleeve holes. They don't really, so I think the assembly is wrong and starves the inner coil of juice...call the fire brigade? I now puncture the cotton in the outer holes (that let me) with a darning needle to get juice flowing...seems to work. Out of the 4 outer holes 3 are pretty much blocked. So its all a bit hit and miss!
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 8, 2016 8:00:20 GMT
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calnorth
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Post by calnorth on Jul 7, 2016 17:21:51 GMT
What email App is that?
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