camperman
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Post by camperman on Feb 22, 2011 20:15:36 GMT
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Pinhead
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Post by Pinhead on Feb 22, 2011 20:21:10 GMT
That's mad money - even at the 'offer' price! If the switches are the ones I think they are, then they are still only rated at 50mA for 12v... Sean
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Post by l15a on Feb 22, 2011 20:34:17 GMT
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tony2stix
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Post by tony2stix on Feb 22, 2011 20:35:32 GMT
Sean mate what switches you using? send me a link please, I am putting my needle straight through the top of bottle and measure the distance to the atty, the rest will be pushed back into bottle with a small piece of tube on, making sure that the needle is a real tight fit so it can be altered for different size attys, there will be no danger of blow back as say, if the tube is bent at the bottom of bottle ie pointing slightly upwards hope this sound ok, easy enough to speak to someone and explain things put I do have trouble getting it on paper lol ??? Tony
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Post by l15a on Feb 22, 2011 20:35:45 GMT
And all together
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tony2stix
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Post by tony2stix on Feb 22, 2011 20:37:38 GMT
forgot to ask kill switch? is this a reset fuse, I use them to protect the user if there are faulty batteries
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camperman
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Post by camperman on Feb 22, 2011 20:39:12 GMT
yer thats the ones lisa
have any of you thought about doing the feeder the same as the reo with a tube from under the atty connector into the top of a bottle ?
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Pinhead
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Post by Pinhead on Feb 22, 2011 20:55:46 GMT
At the moment, I have a copper tube soldered through the centre of the battery connector that reaches into the atty. Length-wise, it stops just short of the atty and will feed into the bottle with a length of silicon tubing. However, I'm looking into practically the same system as Lisa uses but seeing if a Leur fitting check valve can be incorporated to stop the juice returning top the bottle... the problem being that you still need to allow air into the bottle. I'm not convinced about those switches as they are only rated to 50mA at 12v... our atties draw anything between 1.5 and 2 amps. The kill switch is simply the switch that is already wired into the battery boxes. When it's in the 'ON' position, it allows the atty to draw current when the button is pressed. In the 'OFF' position, it doesn't and so the box can't be triggered in a pocket. Lastly, I'm currently using the switches that Lisa linked to in the Box Mod Buttons thread but these are only a quick-fix for me. The switches I intend to use are custom built touch sensor circuits. Sean EDIT... forgot to add... the DB (Double Battery) version will also happily run off a single battery!
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Post by mrlimbo on Feb 22, 2011 23:39:54 GMT
the problem being that you still need to allow air into the bottle. Is that the case , even if the bottle is 3/4 full from the start , so has 1/4 of air ect ?
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ian
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Post by ian on Feb 22, 2011 23:56:26 GMT
Very interested in the double 14500 battery box Sean.Will buy,test and review it.I love the fact that you can use the two batts togeather at 3.7v.PM me with info when one is available,if you dont mind.
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tony2stix
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Post by tony2stix on Feb 23, 2011 1:49:10 GMT
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Scylla
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Post by Scylla on Feb 23, 2011 7:15:03 GMT
Glad to see your expertise in action, Lisa scylla
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Pinhead
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Post by Pinhead on Feb 23, 2011 10:05:42 GMT
Is that the case , even if the bottle is 3/4 full from the start , so has 1/4 of air ect ? I'm afraid so mate, every time you squeeze the bottle, the juice empties and can't return. If air can't get in to replace the absent liquid, it creates a vacuum and the bottle can't re-inflate. Tony, I have a friendly electrical wizard who is working out the touch sensor technical bits for me as I don't have a clue. Once he's made one or two, I can then source the parts and make them myself as the physical aspects of wiring and soldering are no problem! Sean
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tony2stix
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Post by tony2stix on Feb 23, 2011 14:40:38 GMT
Thanks Sean will look forward in what you do mate Tony
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tony2stix
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Post by tony2stix on Feb 23, 2011 14:47:35 GMT
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