How do you remove a Sigelei ZMAX top cap

[robdelmar]

Anyone know whats the best way to remove the top cap off the ZMAX. Its the one from the first AAEC group buy . I think its been mentioned somewhere in one of the the forums but cant find it. I think theres two types ,one threaded and the other press fit but not sure which one is used in mine
Went to pull the driptip off my dripping atty and the 510 conector came free instead so want to crimp the connector back after replacing.
Remember reading something about using JB weld to glue it back into place but keep thinking this might insulate the connector

[maccafan]

If yours is a brushed finish from the first group buy the top cap is threaded.

You need to use a pair of mole grips/pipe wrenches or clamp the tube or the flat of the top cap on a vice and use a mole grip/pipe wrench to unscrew it. The threads are secured by an anaerobic threadlocker, Normally application of heat should loosen it but being so close to the circuit board you do not want to heat the joint so you will have to use a judicious amount of brute force. Doing it without marking the tube needs a few layers of rags or something to prevent tool marks. I use two pieces of thick leather.

If you want you can send it to me enclosing a self addressed envelope with postage and I can fix it for you. If you want to have a go yourself, make sure you de-solder the pin before attempting to rotate the top cap.

[Greigster]

As always Macca, you go that extra mile for others.

[robdelmar]

Cheers macca ,I remember it being something like that so had a go with molegrips and pipe wrench using some thick leather from a old leather belt ,to help prevent crushing the tube I clamped the tube just bellow the switch where there is a plastic disc inside the tube holding the pos pin. But it just keeps slipping, not sure how tight I should go at tube end tho.
Cap end no problem as its pretty solid. Did unsolder the pin first as well and did think about using heat to help but apparently you need about 400 deg F to soften the threadlocker so heat conducting to circuit board was a concern.
Will have another go but right now have recieved some buck/boost vv boards with 25 watt capability that I want to try out so making a straight foward tin mod to see how they go.
Cant help making mods, this ecig thing is becoming an obsession
edit
buck/boost vv boards turned out to be a bust. 2ohm coil at 4 volts and it trips out ,nowhere near claimed 25 watts. Oh well

[maccafan]

It's solid stainless steel..I doubt you will be able to deform it even if you drive a car over it or with fairly huge mole grips or a pipe wrench..

So go a tight as you like and I would go more towards the battery cap end on the tube rather than near the switch..

[robdelmar]

Ok macca , think i'll try clamping the tube in a vice. Might have a better grip.
Thanks again

[digithought]

Feb 2, 2013 7:38:01 GMT maccafan said:

If yours is a brushed finish from the first group buy the top cap is threaded.

You need to use a pair of mole grips/pipe wrenches or clamp the tube or the flat of the top cap on a vice and use a mole grip/pipe wrench to unscrew it. The threads are secured by an anaerobic threadlocker, Normally application of heat should loosen it but being so close to the circuit board you do not want to heat the joint so you will have to use a judicious amount of brute force. Doing it without marking the tube needs a few layers of rags or something to prevent tool marks. I use two pieces of thick leather.

If you want you can send it to me enclosing a self addressed envelope with postage and I can fix it for you. If you want to have a go yourself, make sure you de-solder the pin before attempting to rotate the top cap.

[digithought]

I have 2 Sigelei's, the second being a telescope which I'm struggling along with. I would never touch another Sigelei as they all seem to be electronically challenged. My first Sigelei was more expensive than the telescope, and fits both batteries 18650 + 18350, having two separate bottoms. It was around £70, and the LCD display and everything works when you put a battery in, but there is no electric getting to the vaping plate. If Macca could fix this I'd pay him. I trust kanger, and want to buy the Kanger K Simar MOD, but it seems to be permanently out of stock everywhere. Can anyone fix my Sigelei?

[Jerri]

Aug 24, 2014 11:12:54 GMT digithought said:

I have 2 Sigelei's, the second being a telescope which I'm struggling along with. I would never touch another Sigelei as they all seem to be electronically challenged. My first Sigelei was more expensive than the telescope, and fits both batteries 18650 + 18350, having two separate bottoms. It was around £70, and the LCD display and everything works when you put a battery in, but there is no electric getting to the vaping plate. If Macca could fix this I'd pay him. I trust kanger, and want to buy the Kanger K Simar MOD, but it seems to be permanently out of stock everywhere. Can anyone fix my Sigelei?

myepack.co.uk/kanger-k-simar.html

[maccafan]

Aug 24, 2014 11:12:54 GMT digithought said:

I have 2 Sigelei's, the second being a telescope which I'm struggling along with. I would never touch another Sigelei as they all seem to be electronically challenged. My first Sigelei was more expensive than the telescope, and fits both batteries 18650 + 18350, having two separate bottoms. It was around £70, and the LCD display and everything works when you put a battery in, but there is no electric getting to the vaping plate. If Macca could fix this I'd pay him. I trust kanger, and want to buy the Kanger K Simar MOD, but it seems to be permanently out of stock everywhere. Can anyone fix my Sigelei?

I can try if you want. PM me. If you want to have a go yourself, in all likely hood the posi pin has desoldered, or that is what it sounds like.

Also when taking it apart, there may be some minor tool marks as some of them are impossible to get apart except by clamping metal on metal. I try to minimize it as much as possible but I only have access to hand tools.