AGA T+

[punisher]

well I finaly recived my aga t yesterdaythanks to
Ratcinkz and vapatrain
and what a very nice piece of kit it is
rolled my first ss wick oxidized jt a few times like all the video's coiled the wick fired it up only the fop coil glowed pullsed and poked it about
hey presto I would like to no dose it get hot spots becouse its to tight on the ss or two lose so I would no what I am poking it for
the coil was 2.w little high so I droped a rap off now kts 1.8 maybe still high but its working and glowing fine vapes about the same as my phenoixe atty
very nice draw cant fault the aga t
still im geting fluctuations in the coil over the lasg 3 or so hrs its gone from a 1.8 to a 5.6 back down and settled now at around 2.6 I keep taking top of and poking it whats wrong is coil to lose ? but then if so how xose the drill bit method work as ive seen people slide ther mesh wick out
or is mjne to tight
you no I think I mjght just have answerd my own question lol

[punisher]

so I gues no body nows we all just poke the coil becouse somone said so and I take it we are all lemings ?
24hrs in and never had so many probs with a coil dry hits even at 3 volts 1.8 ohms coil wish I never botherd even whennits working corect flavour is bad I much prefer my clero v3 think its bound for the draw

[griffon10]

saw a vid on the aga and the guy said you could get problems if the wire to the positive terminal was too tight, maybe?
still not got round to wicking my aga

[womble]

I'm struggling to see what your problem is tbh.

Do you think you could get a spell checker, no offense but your writing is really hard to read.

[punisher]

Mar 21, 2013 19:44:46 GMT womble said:

I'm struggling to see what your problem is tbh.

Do you think you could get a spell checker, no offense but your writing is really hard to read.

sorry no spell check on mobile phone
problem is
hot spots
dry hits even at 3 volts (1.8 ohms) coil
no flavour
I asked why do we poke the coil ? becouse somemone told us to or is ther a reason ?
so do we get hot spots becouse. coil is wound to tight or to lose ?
if I new why we get hot spots I can fix it
mesh is standerd size suplied by vendor. rolled untill it fit the hole not to tight infact its like a staw
burnt 4 times to oxidize
rapped wick left turns and right incase it makes a difference
tryed drill bit method still the same
0.20 guage kanthel 4 turns = 1.8 ohms
ejuice 70/30 mix been using same juice for months on clearos
running aga t on a lambo v4

[paul3000]

Never get a constant reading from the bottom two connections with a meter or via lambo 4 ohm check, but if I do a meter reading between centre post and the terminal at the top with an ohmmeter always get reading of 1.8, or whatever the current coil is. I have tried, hemp, bamboo and stainless on the T+ and not really that impressed with it. Waste of money I think, I rate the A7 stainless way better. Much better vapour at lower voltage.

[Deleted]

dry hits are a lack of juice to the coil
could be the coil is strangling the wick
did you coat the wick and run a flame over it after oxidising (3 ish times) to help the oxidising process
is the top of the wick wet from the capillary action of drawing up the liquid
common hot spot is the top of coil with too much gap to the posi connection try bending the mesh slightly toward positive post and re tighten coil to that post then add a couple of drops of juice on the coil to aid initial wicking

[Bluefish]

you poke the coil as you call it, to create an equal space between the coils, and to loosen or tighten the coils. If the top coil is too tight and digging in the mesh this could cause hot spots, or if it's too far away from the post, try pushing the wick nearer the post.

[punisher]

ok thank you guys
couple of answers
wick is dry at top
not realy concerd about the ohms as long as they stable first coil fluctuated between 1.4 and 5.6 ohms and I have no idea why
I did not quench with ejuice when oxidizing just heated and let cool 4 times
wick length is from bottom off tank to just under the positive terminal
will bend now and try again
oh and coilmis slack I can draw the wick out leaving coil behind so not strangling wick

[womble]

Once the wick and coil are in place, I wouldn't keep taking them out, you are taking off the layer of carbon which insulates them.

Once you have run a flame over the wick to oxidise it (only needs to be done once, heat each bit till red, then do the next), don't quench it, but put juice over the wick and set fire to one end, you should see the flame go the whole length of the wick.
Do the juice twice, that should be enough. The 2nd time you should see it greedily soak up the juice.

Put your coil round your wick in situ and on a low voltage, pulse it till hopefully the hotspots should be gone. Once the wick is worn in, each new coil won't need so much babying.

Cover the coil and wick in juice and again pulse, slow and sure is better this early on.


As for the bad taste, depends what the taste is.


I'm far from the best person to be answering this, so you might get some more informed replies.


ps no idea about the fluctuation in ohms with the coil, just try it my way and take it slow.

[Deleted]

Mar 21, 2013 20:18:57 GMT punisher said:

ok thank you guys
couple of answers
wick is dry at top
not realy concerd about the ohms as long as they stable first coil fluctuated between 1.4 and 5.6 ohms and I have no idea why
I did not quench with ejuice when oxidizing just heated and let cool 4 times
wick length is from bottom off tank to just under the positive terminal
will bend now and try again
oh and coilmis slack I can draw the wick out leaving coil behind so not strangling wick

1/ 1.4 and 5.6 ohms and I have no idea why

That is because you are probably getting a short caused by your wick, caused by not oxidising it properly.

2/ I did not quench with ejuice when oxidizing just heated and let cool 4 times

Try it, it makes a difference.

3/ wick length is from bottom off tank to just under the positive terminal

That's fine, although try cutting the bottom of the wick at an angle

4/ oh and coilmis slack I can draw the wick out leaving coil behind so not strangling wick

It may need to be a little tighter, if the coils are too loose you will get hotspots.

The photos below are mine, you could try a small washer which shortens the distance between the wick and the positive post.

[punisher]

Mar 21, 2013 20:00:51 GMT paul3000 said:

Never get a constant reading from the bottom two connections with a meter or via lambo 4 ohm check, but if I do a meter reading between centre post and the terminal at the top with an ohmmeter always get reading of 1.8, or whatever the current coil is. I have tried, hemp, bamboo and stainless on the T+ and not really that impressed with it. Waste of money I think, I rate the A7 stainless way better. Much better vapour at lower voltage.

I also have the a7 I think its the pheniox and I realy do like it
I like to use it for driping new flavours
but will carry on with the aga t as the kdea of 3 ml of ejuice is handy for work and realy wanted the ss wick to work

just recoiled. again
took wick out rolled it in my fingers again to slacken slightly flamed it with juice
bent slightly towords post recoiled still hotspots at top coil but think I can fix that seems to wick beter maybe its just becouse its a new wick
time will tell
going to play with hybrid ss fiberglas wick for the pheniox for now befor I get annoyed with the aga t and reach for a real smoke

[beardo]

Make sure you're not OVER-burning your wick - it breaks down the oxide layer and means it'll short again. Also to be aware of - try not to let the wick touch the bottom of the tank, that'll cause a short too.

[punisher]

Mar 22, 2013 12:43:22 GMT beardo said:

Make sure you're not OVER-burning your wick - it breaks down the oxide layer and means it'll short again. Also to be aware of - try not to let the wick touch the bottom of the tank, that'll cause a short too.

can you explain overburn ?
I dont think tuching the bottom of the tank would mater as the t+has a silicon style seal in the bottom so cant tuch the ss

can anyone tel my why the wick dose not diliver the juice fast enough I mean 1 draw and wick is dry leave it for 30,40 secs and I can draw again is it to tight to slack not enough wick material
4 days now ive played with it had one good sestion then went for a walk with it in my pocket and strait away hospots so it seems as the aga t is one for sat still on a night not one for work

[beardo]

Don't torch your wick too much, basically. If it gets to the point where you've turned it black, you've probably overdone it

As far as your wicking problems go, what grade mesh are you using? How tight are you rolling your wick? The thing with Genesis-type atties is this: you will eventually find what works best for you, but it can be a really long, tough road! I use mine everywhere, but the first few setups definitely couldn't leave the house with me as they were too fragile.
I currently run 400 mesh rolled fairly tight, 0.5 ribbon kanthal at 2.0 ohms and it's a trooper - been sweet as a nut for the whole of the last week with plenty of vapour.