Hello, all.. I'd introduce myself, but some of you probably know me already...maybe.
Anyway, I've been using genesis rebuildables for a fair old while now so I thought my first post here may as well be helping someone.
I've tried to pulse method, but in my opinion it doesn't offer any really major advantages and takes an inordinate amount of time to do it.
coil resistance makes no difference. I've done it on 2.5ohm and 1.0 ohm coils.
What most people call a hot spot, isn't. A hot spot is that extremely bright pin-point light you can get if the coil is shorting through the oxide coating. This doesn't apply to unoxidised wicks since it's ALL shorting initially.
What people generally call a hotspot is when the top coil glows (and often pops) but none of the others do.
This is not caused by shorting.
It's caused by nothing taking the heat away from the wire.
So, what takes the heat away? Juice and the mesh itself.
I always build coils with the tank empty and the mesh dry. if you can get it right then, it'll work perfectly with juice on it.
So, under those conditions, you have only the mesh taking heat.
In order for the mesh to take the heat, the coil must be touching all around.
I'll repeat that, because it's the most important bit. The coil must be touching the mesh all the way round.
If one coil is not touching that coil will get hotter than the rest. The top coil is the usual suspect because it and the bottom ones can't touch all the way round.
So, all the rest of the coil is touching all the way round, but my top coil is sill popping or glowing.
What's up here? Ok, when you attach the wire to the top post there's a tendency to pull it tight around the post. Or not pull it tight enough. If the contact on the top coil to mesh is too different in either direction, you'll get that top coil glowing.
How to fix it? Firstly, Attach the top coil to the post in a counter-clockwise direction. This means that tightening the nut won't pull the coil tighter.
Secondly try not to pull the wire at all. Just kind of wind it round the post without putting tension on it.
After a few goes, it gets easier.
Now, after it's all attached, but before you cut the tails off, take a good magnifying glass and take a close look at all the coils. Are there any gaps between wire and mesh anywhere? if so, and pair of tweezers can help by gently squeezing the coil at that point.
If the top coil seems tight, you can gently squeeze the mesh around there to loosen it up a bit.
The coils should be free enough to move up and down a bit while still maintaining contact.
If you tend to slide the coils down after fitting to tidy them up, that's a prime way of making gaps.
Check the coil carefully before firing it up.
What you're aiming for, with no juice in the tank is something like this:
Cheers,
BAzz
