Twisting wires to prevent scorching?

[ginge7289]

Since I saw my first tutorial on here about re coiling the Protank and twisting the legs together to prevent the bunt rubber I have always done it.

But today I re coiled my protank as I wanted to try cotton wool wicks, I noticed that even though my legs were twisted together I still has scorching and after putting in the cotton wool I could taste it. Initially I thought I had burnt the wool but after re coiling with silica it still tasted burnt. So I went about smelling parts of my protank when I noticed the scorched rubber bung.

So without joining non res wire is there any way of avoiding this? Im getting rather annoyed with the Kanger heads (currently running T3S and Protanks) and there poor length of life and I'm considering just switching all my vaping to RBA's because of it.

Has anyone got any top tips or tricks they use to get the best out of these clearo's because when they work they are great, but I am spending to much time stripping it down, cleaning and re coiling.

[paulymeatballs]

You can get packs of 50 non res/res/non res wires from greyhaze, they work a treat, no more scorched rubber! You can get them in a variety of resistances.

[ginge7289]

Have you tried it on a protank head? I only ask as the kanthal looks to be approx 4 cm in length and if that part touches the rubber bung it will still burn.

[paulymeatballs]

Yes. I've tried them on a variety of devices, silica drippers, genesis atties and several bccs (including the protank) The head is much the same for the protank as it is for the evod.
I'm not sure I understand the second part of your question. The length of the total wire is irrelevant as you'll be snipping the ends off as you normally do. The only part of the wire (from greyhaze) that will be heating up is the middle bit (the resistance wire). That bit will be completely wrapped around your wick. The bits that are left (the legs) will not heat up as they are non-resistance wire. This is how the protank heads are coiled in the factory. Trust me , there's no scorching doing it this way, and at the price for a pack of 50 you can't lose!

[ginge7289]

Yep, the centre part will be the part that heats up but when coiled does that part of the wire still touch the rubber bung or is it just short enough that only the non res wire touches it?

[paulymeatballs]

The middle part of the wire is a certain length to achieve a stated resistance. This is the part that heats up. The entirety of this middle section is to wrapped around your wick, leaving the two ends (made of non-resistance wire) dangling. The ends are poked down the centre hole to be trapped by the bung. The only part of the wire that touched the rubber will be the non-resistance wire. This will not heat up.

[ginge7289]

Ok great, thanks for the info

[gapy360]

Thanks for this info, I have been wanting to try non-res/res wire for my protank due to thescorching or the gromit issue to this info is very timely, and the price looks really good.
Out of interest how long is the res wire part? Just so I can compare to the amount of wire I'm wrapping at the mo.
And it cheaper than buying a wire joiner,

[ginge7289]

Sept 6, 2013 9:17:48 GMT gapy360 said:

Thanks for this info, I have been wanting to try non-res/res wire for my protank due to thescorching or the gromit issue to this info is very timely, and the price looks really good.
Out of interest how long is the res wire part? Just so I can compare to the amount of wire I'm wrapping at the mo.
And it cheaper than buying a wire joiner,

From the pics mate, the legs are 4cm so I guess the res part is about the maybe smaller?

[Deleted]

I have been reading this thread and I am a little confused. Is this the little rubber bung at the end of the atty that screws into the base that is being scorched? If so, is the bung on the protank , vivi nova, evod etc different from that on say a CE4? The reason I ask is that I have recoiled many CE4s ( no kanger products however) and have never had any issue with scorching and always using simple res kanthal wire. ???

[Dan]

I have also recoiled evods and protanks with 0.20 kanthal with no issues..

The distance travelled is so minimal it hardly warrants a non-res setup!!

If you're that worried about the bung then just twist the positive leg on itself thus halving the resistance..

[gapy360]

Sounds good advice I will try that next time I recoil, it could be that I sort of chain vape that it gets quite warm.
As always this is a learning game so advice is always appreciated!

[ginge7289]

Sept 6, 2013 10:48:24 GMT Dan said:

I have also recoiled evods and protanks with 0.20 kanthal with no issues..

The distance travelled is so minimal it hardly warrants a non-res setup!!

If you're that worried about the bung then just twist the positive leg on itself thus halving the resistance..

I have been using the twist method and I am still getting scorching on the bung.

[Super-Shiny]

The scorching dies away after awhile with all of the kanger range design heads.