Spare parts (help needed)

[Super-Shiny]

Jan 6, 2014 18:56:12 GMT testdruif said:

Jan 6, 2014 18:51:52 GMT testdruif said:

I would give it a ? as I have never worked with those kinds or fuses in my life

I've read up on it.

PCB Wire Ended
Resettable fuses with radial leads that offer the following:
All are UL, CSA, TUV approved
Protection of electrical and electronic circuits against excessive currents
Rapid switch from low resistance state to very high resistance with electrical overload or short circuit
Quick and automatic reset and return to low resistance state when fault condition corrected and power removed

So correct me if I'm wrong, the way these fuses work is increasing their resistance when it exceeds the amount of amps going through it
Which would make it heat up (apparently it's intended use). This may or may not cause damage in the housing to your wires and electrics etc...

It says returns to low resistance state when fault condition corrected and power removed

Sooo will you be able to get your mod open fast enough and get your battery out before the thing melts?

I would not know if you was wrong or right, i got confused on the first line

[testdruif]

After reading how that fuse works...

You might want to consider (if space allows it) to put in one of those glass tube fuses that just shorts out and breaks the circuit until you replace it (you would need nothing more than to solder the contacts and then if it blows just solder a new one in).

[testdruif]

Jan 6, 2014 18:58:35 GMT Super-Shiny said:

Jan 6, 2014 18:56:12 GMT testdruif said:

I've read up on it.

PCB Wire Ended
Resettable fuses with radial leads that offer the following:
All are UL, CSA, TUV approved
Protection of electrical and electronic circuits against excessive currents
Rapid switch from low resistance state to very high resistance with electrical overload or short circuit
Quick and automatic reset and return to low resistance state when fault condition corrected and power removed

So correct me if I'm wrong, the way these fuses work is increasing their resistance when it exceeds the amount of amps going through it
Which would make it heat up (apparently it's intended use). This may or may not cause damage in the housing to your wires and electrics etc...

It says returns to low resistance state when fault condition corrected and power removed

Sooo will you be able to get your mod open fast enough and get your battery out before the thing melts?

I would not know if you was wrong or right, i got confused on the first line

maybe make a new post with subject "electrician input needed on fuses"
Who knows someone may come forth

[testdruif]

There

allaboute-cigarettes.proboards.com/thread/33855/electricians-view-required-on-fuses

[Greg]

Jan 6, 2014 13:53:17 GMT Super-Shiny said:

Jan 6, 2014 13:45:18 GMT raid2506 said:

LOL, you can't have too many fuses!

A bridge at one end, a 'Y' at the other, 2 fuses and 4 inputs, you should follow that diagram!

Raid is it wrong or right? not sure if you are saying "Don't" follow that guide ???

Contrary to previous posts this is a far better way to do it. If for example one of your batteries developed an Internal short this method would prevent the shorted battery shorting out the second battery. Makes perfect sense to me 

[Super-Shiny]

Jan 6, 2014 20:21:31 GMT Greg said:

Jan 6, 2014 13:53:17 GMT Super-Shiny said:

Raid is it wrong or right? not sure if you are saying "Don't" follow that guide ???

Contrary to previous posts this is a far better way to do it. If for example one of your batteries developed an Internal short this method would prevent the shorted battery shorting out the second battery. Makes perfect sense to me 

Coming from me who ain't got a idea on the technical side of things like batteries it kinda makes sense how you word it but i am still lost of what fuse to use

[testdruif]

Jan 6, 2014 20:30:52 GMT Super-Shiny said:

Jan 6, 2014 20:21:31 GMT Greg said:

Contrary to previous posts this is a far better way to do it. If for example one of your batteries developed an Internal short this method would prevent the shorted battery shorting out the second battery. Makes perfect sense to me 

Coming from me who ain't got a idea on the technical side of things like batteries it kinda makes sense how you word it but i am still lost of what fuse to use

in that case, would it not be prudent to have fuses that are capable of handling more than just 3 amp? (otherwise they will short out when using the batteries itself at any type of current)

[Greg]

Jan 6, 2014 20:34:23 GMT testdruif said:

Jan 6, 2014 20:30:52 GMT Super-Shiny said:

Coming from me who ain't got a idea on the technical side of things like batteries it kinda makes sense how you word it but i am still lost of what fuse to use

in that case, would it not be prudent to have fuses that are capable of handling more than just 3 amp? (otherwise they will short out when using the batteries itself at any type of current)

I think your looking at it the wrong way. A fuse is there to blow if current is exceeded to prevent damage to the circuit and associated wiring/ components. 

I don't understand what you mean by they will short out when using the batteries at any type of current.

Think of a house appliance plug, a tablelamp for example. If the instructions say fit a 3 amp fuse and you decided to fit a 13 amp fuse contrary to instructions then this would be unsafe. The lamp wiring, fittings and thermal considerations have been designed around taking no more current than 3 amps, actually more including a safety margin. By installing a 13 amp fuse you could develop a fault on the lamp that caused 10 amps to flow and your 13 amp fuse would never blow resulting in most likely a fire.

In terms of fuses to use in the mod I would recommend 2 3a fuses assuming you want to restrict the output to just under 6 amps.

If you want to be able to produce just under 7 amps max then two 3.5 amp fuses.

I can't say I'm familiar with those square resettable fuses linked earlier but they sound more like a thermal overload than a fuse to me. A thermal overload works by having two metal strips that under normal conditions are touching. If you exceed the trip setting the two strips heat up more and separate breaking the circuit. When they cool down they touch again the "fuse" can carry current again. Seems an odd choice to me as left unattended they keep opening and closing until you intervened, maybe by resettable you have to manually reset them somehow.
Its 10 years or so since I worked I the electrical field so maybe they do something different now.

If possible I think I would just use a couple of small glass fuses, similar buy physically smaller than those you use in a 3 pin plug.

[testdruif]

Jan 6, 2014 21:01:22 GMT Greg said:

Jan 6, 2014 20:34:23 GMT testdruif said:

in that case, would it not be prudent to have fuses that are capable of handling more than just 3 amp? (otherwise they will short out when using the batteries itself at any type of current)

I think your looking at it the wrong way. A fuse is there to blow if current is exceeded to prevent damage to the circuit and associated wiring/ components. 

I don't understand what you mean by they will short out when using the batteries at any type of current.

Think of a house appliance plug, a tablelamp for example. If the instructions say fit a 3 amp fuse and you decided to fit a 13 amp fuse contrary to instructions then this would be unsafe. The lamp wiring, fittings and thermal considerations have been designed around taking no more current than 3 amps, actually more including a safety margin. By installing a 13 amp fuse you could develop a fault on the lamp that caused 10 amps to flow and your 13 amp fuse would never blow resulting in most likely a fire.

In terms of fuses to use in the mod I would recommend 2 3a fuses assuming you want to restrict the output to just under 6 amps.

If you want to be able to produce just under 7 amps max then two 3.5 amp fuses.

I can't say I'm familiar with those square resettable fuses linked earlier but they sound more like a thermal overload than a fuse to me. A thermal overload works by having two metal strips that under normal conditions are touching. If you exceed the trip setting the two strips heat up more and separate breaking the circuit. When they cool down they touch again the "fuse" can carry current again. Seems an odd choice to me as left unattended they keep opening and closing until you intervened, maybe by resettable you have to manually reset them somehow.
Its 10 years or so since I worked I the electrical field so maybe they do something different now.

If possible I think I would just use a couple of small glass fuses, similar buy physically smaller than those you use in a 3 pin plug.

in regards to blowing the fuses when just having one 3a fuse per wire for each battery that would be a trip at 3 amps. if the mod operates at about 4 amp regular use would that not trip the fuses?

[Super-Shiny]

If this is the case maybe the first picture was correct from Manu (creator of the mod) Greg testdruif and this would be the way:



I am now con - fused (pardon the pun) ???

[Greg]

Yes at 8 amps, 4 amps per fuse both 3 amp fuses would blow.

So you need to determine the maximum input current you want the device to run at, I think I read earlier the dna20 board was rated at 6 or 7 or 8 amps input max.

So if the max is 8 amps then you cold fit 2 4a fuses. Alternatively if the board is rated at 8 amps but you knew from a vaping perspective you would never want to go above a certain wattage that equated to 6 amps input then you could use two 3 amp fuses. As stated earlier with 6 amp fuse total you don't want to actually draw 6 amps as the fuse will blow but marginally below 6 amps is fine indefinitely.

[Greg]

Jan 6, 2014 21:13:19 GMT Super-Shiny said:

If this is the case maybe the first picture was correct from Manu (creator of the mod) Greg testdruif and this would be the way:



I am now con - fused (pardon the pun) ???

Super-Shiny yes that diagram is the way I would do it assuming your happy you would always remain below 6 amps input.
And yes solder the 3 wires together then shrink wrap them.

[testdruif]

Jan 6, 2014 21:15:33 GMT Greg said:

Yes at 8 amps, 4 amps per fuse both 3 amp fuses would blow.

So you need to determine the maximum input current you want the device to run at, I think I read earlier the dna20 board was rated at 6 or 7 or 8 amps input max.

So if the max is 8 amps then you cold fit 2 4a fuses. Alternatively if the board is rated at 8 amps but you knew from a vaping perspective you would never want to go above a certain wattage that equated to 6 amps input then you could use two 3 amp fuses. As stated earlier with 6 amp fuse total you don't want to actually draw 6 amps as the fuse will blow but marginally below 6 amps is fine indefinitely.

Thanks for your insights gregb!

The maximum input current for the board itself is 7 watt.

So as per your provided information with putting the batteries in parallel they would both provide 3.5 amps (if that would be needed) so having 2 fuses of 3.5 amp (setup as shown in romelee's picture) that would suffice?

[Super-Shiny]

Phewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww i am glad that is over, i am starting to not want to make the mod Greg

[testdruif]

gogo super-shiny

if you can Super-Shiny make in depth/detailed pictures of how you fit it all in the box please so I can replicate it and ship it of to china for mass production at a fraction of the cost