ragjoy
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Post by ragjoy on May 31, 2014 10:08:33 GMT
Thanks des, I will try that.
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hijack
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Post by hijack on May 31, 2014 11:53:49 GMT
ragjoyAll I have found is this. LED Light BlinkingMode: The LED light will blink in different colours to indicate the current battery voltage 1. Red LED light = battery voltage is lower than 3.61V 2. Yellow LED light = battery voltage between 3.61V and 3.75V 3. Green LED light = battery voltage is more than 3.75 V 4. Red LED will keep blinking for 8 seconds when battery capacity is lower than 3.3V and the device will turn off automatically. 5. Red LED light will stay on for 5 seconds when a load short circuit is detected or the current of the coil is more than 3.5A, then no vapor will be produced. 6. If you take a drag for longer 10 seconds, the battery will stop it’s output, the RED light will blink 10 times, and the iTaste MVP won’t continue to work until you press the power button again. Also there was mention of a cleaning cycle that occurs when the puff counter reaches 999 which is a full 10sec burst followed by the flashing LED. It would be unusual to have the same fault after an exchange. 10 seconds does go by quickly when you do a lung hit. Ive had that green light flashing on my VTR many times when trying to get a good hit and thought nothing more about it. Do some trials to a stopwatch.
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ragjoy
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Post by ragjoy on May 31, 2014 13:27:26 GMT
Thanks hijack. I've searched and read dozens of posts none help or apply too my problem. Mines flashses green randomly but it is not the 10 second light as I'm not at 10 secs and the MVP doesent seems to cut out it just flashes. Gary.
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hijack
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Post by hijack on May 31, 2014 13:49:09 GMT
ragjoySorry I couldn't be more help. The only other fault with the MVP that I have read in the past has been an issue of the fire button locking on and people not being able to get it to reset. I would test the hell out of the one you have to see if this might be the start of that problem. Ash from myepack has always been very helpful to me. He may not get around to answering all the emails he gets, but if you phone him he will try and resolve any issue. He even changed my order when I decided I didn't want what I had asked for, and changed it around before it went out. Most would have said ''sorry you have already paid for it''.
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ragjoy
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Post by ragjoy on May 31, 2014 14:17:43 GMT
ragjoySorry I couldn't be more help. The only other fault with the MVP that I have read in the past has been an issue of the fire button locking on and people not being able to get it to reset. I would test the hell out of the one you have to see if this might be the start of that problem. Ash from myepack has always been very helpful to me. He may not get around to answering all the emails he gets, but if you phone him he will try and resolve any issue. He even changed my order when I decided I didn't want what I had asked for, and changed it around before it went out. Most would have said ''sorry you have already paid for it''. thanks hijack, the problem only seems to be boges. this is the second one and both behave the same. for whatever reason it hasnt done the flashing (well it did once, could have been 10 seconds)since changed to ive changed onto VW @ 8 watts, so touchwood it may be cured. dont understand enough about it too know why, although 8 watts does seem a little high when listening to the firing if that makes sense. gary.
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hijack
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Post by hijack on May 31, 2014 14:31:47 GMT
although 8 watts does seem a little high when listening to the firing if that makes sense. gary. Although I don't use a carto, that sizzling, crackling sound is just how you want it. I usually vape my clearos at 10watts and I think the coils stay cleaner and get less gunged up if you run them higher. This may be different for cartos, hopefully someone will say if it is.
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ragjoy
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Post by ragjoy on May 31, 2014 15:15:26 GMT
although 8 watts does seem a little high when listening to the firing if that makes sense. gary. Although I don't use a carto, that sizzling, crackling sound is just how you want it. I usually vape my clearos at 10watts and I think the coils stay cleaner and get less gunged up if you run them higher. This may be different for cartos, hopefully someone will say if it is. you generally know within an hour if your using a really good boge by the hiss, this one has been on a couple of days now and the real hiss as only really come on since using the VW @ 8 watts even on the provari it was sounding an average boge, which are still good, just not quite as good for a longer period.
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ragjoy
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Post by ragjoy on Jun 6, 2014 7:00:21 GMT
Well has I sort of expected the MVP has packed up. It is out of warranty because I took a millimetre or so of the Atty holder. I've taken the the top off too try to find the issue, which is the centre pin it has now pushed down too far that it won't connect. I can push it back up but when put back together it just slides back down when the slightest pressure is applied. At the bottom end the only thing that stops it pushing down too far is a blob of silicon type glue, does anyone have any knowledge of what this is as it can probably be re glued. I know many are over the moon with the MVP but this is the second one and both were IMO faulty if indeed I did receive a second one and not just the same one back again which seems more than possible. I would have sent this back but had already agreed the PayPal dispute. Quite pissed off with it really and wouldn't recommend this device for using anything other than the heads made for it, although I've said faulty I do believe it has something to do with the boges cartos. Raggy.
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DiscoDes
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Post by DiscoDes on Jun 6, 2014 7:05:17 GMT
If you took 1mm off the top of the threading, this would mean that the bottom of an atomiser would push harder against the cetre pin giving you problems as you would exert too much pressure on the centre pin.
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ragjoy
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Post by ragjoy on Jun 6, 2014 7:09:30 GMT
If you took 1mm off the top of the threading, this would mean that the bottom of an atomiser would push harder against the cetre pin giving you problems as you would exert too much pressure on the centre pin. Thanks des, Yes your right but without this taken off there was either no connection or intermittent connection.
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keepitgoin
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Post by keepitgoin on Jun 6, 2014 8:50:35 GMT
Hi ragjoy, sorry to hear about yor issues with the MVP2. I found that if the MVP2 was struggling to connect with a device I could "lift" the Centre pin , slightly, with a small screwdriver, to improve connection. I sounds as if Filing your threading may have allowed the Centre Pin to be pushed down, into the MVP2 and be a possible cause of the strange Flashing of the Firing Button. The sillicone that you mention could be replaced by a judicious application of Glue from a Hot Glue Gun and I'd think about either a) adding an O ring to the centre pin, so it can't "Sink" below a determined level and/or b) putting a new 510 connecter on your MVP Be aware of the danger of shorting out your Battery while doing any of this though. It's a great feeling if you can get summat running again, and gives the confidence to tackle other stuff!
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ragjoy
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Post by ragjoy on Jun 6, 2014 9:48:22 GMT
Hi ragjoy, sorry to hear about yor issues with the MVP2. I found that if the MVP2 was struggling to connect with a device I could "lift" the Centre pin , slightly, with a small screwdriver, to improve connection. I sounds as if Filing your threading may have allowed the Centre Pin to be pushed down, into the MVP2 and be a possible cause of the strange Flashing of the Firing Button. The sillicone that you mention could be replaced by a judicious application of Glue from a Hot Glue Gun and I'd think about either a) adding an O ring to the centre pin, so it can't "Sink" below a determined level and/or b) putting a new 510 connecter on your MVP Be aware of the danger of shorting out your Battery while doing any of this though. It's a great feeling if you can get summat running again, and gives the confidence to tackle other stuff! thank you for the advice. i need to solder the wire onto the pole first, which ive never done before. then to start im going to re glue with the glue gun. ref the filing down i done this long after the flashing light and was the reason for the filing. i searched the web and it seemed the 2 options were lift the pole as you describe or lower the top, lifting the pole has its risks also of breaking the 2 wires so i took the second option. the pole moves far to easily and just pushes onto some insulation sponge and to me it seems there was never enough glue or something solid ish for the pole to push onto. anyway i will give it a go and see what happens. raggy
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keepitgoin
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Post by keepitgoin on Jun 6, 2014 12:23:59 GMT
Good luck ragjoy. Let us know how you fare, I think repairing and tinkering is probably what we are all going to be doing.I have worn out 2 MVP2 and am thinking that the 18650 (Decent Quality) Batteries I use for MODs are beginning to not hold charge for as long as they used to. Like all rechargeable Batteries Vape Batteries have a finite life, and will need to be replaced at some point. Still cheaper than Smoking!!
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Q
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Post by Q on Jun 6, 2014 12:37:28 GMT
I'd love to know how you can tell WHAT the light is doing... my only gripe with the mvp is the fact that the light is on the button.. I cant see the light while I'm using it, I have to press the button whilst holding it in front of me to check if its turned amber
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ragjoy
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Post by ragjoy on Jun 6, 2014 14:32:05 GMT
well its working again after 3 attempts. the pole really is imo a really weak point, it is only held up by glue and sponge, if you over tighten and i dont believe i do it can go down and not come back, it just crushes the glue into the sponge i guess. now bare in mind im fairly dense with this sort of thing so my opinion dont really count for much really but it seems a poor way to keep the pole where its meant to be. with the pole bottom (wired end) flush with the housing it is still only showing 2mm of the boge at the atty end, if i hadnt taken off 1 or 2 mm the boge shoulder would be touching the housing if fully tightened. quite pleased really as ive never soldered before and its running for now. apologies if i sound like i know all about this sort of thing i really dont and no doubt i will be rightly corrected but thats the way i see it in layman's terms.
raggy.
edit: still getting the occasional flashing though.
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