sammy13
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Post by sammy13 on Jul 3, 2014 18:07:29 GMT
Not sure if this should be posted here or general, but went with the majority of coil threads.
Quick question.
I do not make my own coils .
I buy kanger coils for protank/evod.
I then buy pre-made coils, and thread with cotton.
I pop these coils into the metal bases that I originally bought.
So first question, when you strip it down and remove the coil and wick you are left with -
A metal unit, A metal post, a plastic/silicon round bit which goes over the wick. A grommet, A metal screw.
Do all these bits last forever?? Or do they need replacing.
Second question -
Rather than just changing the wick, be it cotton or silica, you are wanting to put a new coil and wick in.
You remove it from your atty, throw coil and wick in bin, then do you wash it?
I currently do this, remove head from atty, remove coil and wick, totally dismantle every other piece and plonk in a cup of boiling water. Leave 24 hours , then remove and leave to dry, all bits lined up like soldiers.
I am wondering if that is actually needed?
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autumntwist32
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Post by autumntwist32 on Jul 3, 2014 18:15:35 GMT
I use these coil heads too, I don't know about how long all the bits last but I do give all mine a good wash in hot water before putting a new coil and wick in My OH has broken a few of the metal units by being to heavy handed when pushing the post in but I haven't had any go on me yet.
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cHooBeyDoo
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Post by cHooBeyDoo on Jul 3, 2014 19:33:16 GMT
I make my own coils sammy13But similar to you I take my coil head apart and wash/scrub everthing in warm soapy water (sometimes just warm running water) but then rinse under clean running water, dry with paper towel, recoil and rewick, then it's good to go again. I find there's no need to soak overnight really. Only if I have been vaping strong flavours I will sometimes plonk the disassembled coil bits in with a atty, bottles etc in denture tablet and warm water solution overnight. I find that pure Bicarb solution leaves a chalky residue on everything so now use denture tablets, non minty.
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sammy13
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Post by sammy13 on Jul 3, 2014 19:39:13 GMT
Thankyou, I didn't know if I was making too much of an issue out of it
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hijack
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Post by hijack on Jul 3, 2014 20:18:18 GMT
Do the bits last forever? No, the rubber grommets can split over time, but the rest probably will last.
Every week ill change a cotton wick, when I do this Ill dry burn the coil to burn off the gunk, then thread another wick in there and use for a second week. While I have it in pieces ill rinse everything under the tap trying not to loose anything down the plughole.
I think I might have had a coil last over 4 weeks it was only because the resistance reading went haywire that I thought I better make a new one.
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Super-Shiny
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Post by Super-Shiny on Jul 3, 2014 21:02:55 GMT
I do not make my own coils. Lazy sod
I buy kanger coils for protank/evod. Lazy sod, build your own and save money
I then buy pre-made coils, and thread with cotton. Them pre-made coils are too weak and are not microcoils so putting cotton in them is just more work than is needed...i.e Lazy sod
So first question, when you strip it down and remove the coil and wick you are left with -
A metal unit, YES
A metal post YES
a plastic/silicon round bit which goes over the wick YES
A grommet YES A metal screw YES
Do all these bits last forever?? Or do they need replacing.... Only part that will need replacing is the grommet after a long time, depending though as the new heads use silicon grommets and they last ages compared to the rubber grommets.
Second question -
Rather than just changing the wick, be it cotton or silica, you are wanting to put a new coil and wick in.
You remove it from your atty, throw coil and wick in bin, then do you wash it? Doing this you are basically building your own coil.......i.e Lazy sod
I currently do this, remove head from atty, remove coil and wick, totally dismantle every other piece and plonk in a cup of boiling water. Leave 24 hours , then remove and leave to dry, all bits lined up like soldiers. If you are removing the coil you might aswell make a new one....i.e Lazy sod
I am wondering if that is actually needed?
Nope
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Pepperty
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Post by Pepperty on Jul 3, 2014 21:06:53 GMT
oh dear, I'm obviously a ganking bitch? I run coil bits under a lukewarm tap, dab with kitchen towel and rebuild/assemble. But then neither do I boil my cotton wick... I'll probably die of something vape related due to my lack of hygiene
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sammy13
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Post by sammy13 on Jul 3, 2014 21:09:08 GMT
I do not make my own coils. Lazy sod
I buy kanger coils for protank/evod. Lazy sod, build your own and save money
I then buy pre-made coils, and thread with cotton. Them pre-made coils are too weak and are not microcoils so putting cotton in them is just more work than is needed...i.e Lazy sod
So first question, when you strip it down and remove the coil and wick you are left with -
A metal unit, YES
A metal post YES
a plastic/silicon round bit which goes over the wick YES
A grommet YES A metal screw YES
Do all these bits last forever?? Or do they need replacing.... Only part that will need replacing is the grommet after a long time, depending though as the new heads use silicon grommets and they last ages compared to the rubber grommets.
Second question -
Rather than just changing the wick, be it cotton or silica, you are wanting to put a new coil and wick in.
You remove it from your atty, throw coil and wick in bin, then do you wash it? Doing this you are basically building your own coil.......i.e Lazy sod
I currently do this, remove head from atty, remove coil and wick, totally dismantle every other piece and plonk in a cup of boiling water. Leave 24 hours , then remove and leave to dry, all bits lined up like soldiers. If you are removing the coil you might aswell make a new one....i.e Lazy sod
I am wondering if that is actually needed?
Nope
Thanks Super-Shiny we all know I am a lazy sod
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Pepperty
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Post by Pepperty on Jul 3, 2014 21:11:42 GMT
p.s sammy I do agree, making a microcoil is dead easy! I only use the ready made fasttech coils for my evil nr-r-nr builds (because I am a lazy sod) as for making own microcoils in normal kanthal ----they are a piece of cake, honest!
You just wind around a drill bit, 8 times on .25 kanthal wire. Hold firm with some old eyebrow tweezers. Blast it under the hob flame and its rock solid. You can throw cotton wool through that one coil for months- trillions of times. I wouldnt bother with fasttech ready mades for that! it is the easiest bit
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prr
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Post by prr on Jul 4, 2014 12:23:58 GMT
sammy13 as I have said before I am happy to recoil foryou, if you have got to the stage of rebuilding the heads do you want me to do you some microcoils for you to use?
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ruffdog
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Post by ruffdog on Jul 8, 2014 8:39:13 GMT
Hi Guys, Seen as this appears to be a protank thread. I'll just post this. any thoughts? sonicflowjoe sent me a couple of PT 2 (i think could be 1) heads to practice on. markscuba sent me the protank 3 a few weeks ago. This is indeed quite weird. The coil I got in the PT3 from MarkScuba was a single coil but in a PT3 head. (IE no long thin tube) and it leaked until I put another flavor wick on top of the coil. In the pub the other day and the resistance started jumping about (doubling in fact to about 4.5ohm) I've just cleaned it and whilst dry burning i see the problem, there is a intermittent short in the middle of the coil so only half of it heats up, sometimes lol So as i still havent had chance to recoil the PT2 heads you sent, I checked one and a quick dryburn and it's fine. 2.0ohm, no burned wick, clean coil. Looked at the tank and can see that the PT3 heads sits flush with the breathing tube, Your heads however don't meet at all but the long thin top goes into the tube. It should leak.!!!! there is no seal really between the head and the air tube. except the fact it's shoved up there. ive had it on for 20 min, turned it upside down and round and round, vapes great, strange eh. I did put another rubber cap over the one already on it, but on looking it doesnt reach the air tube anyway so not much point. Cool. I'm good with physics and I can't work out how it is sealing. Ruff
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sonicflowjoe
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Post by sonicflowjoe on Jul 8, 2014 19:35:30 GMT
Howdo ruffdog sound a bit strange that, i guess if you held it upside down long enough the juice would eventually find a way through the air tube. The main thing is that it doesn't leak through the bottom and since your not likely to be carrying it round upside down too much that's ok i guess. I've found when wicking a micro coil with cotton i don't need the sillicone cap bit (or any flavour wick)... just obstructs good wicking. I've never used a PT3, guessing cause it's supposed to take the (taller) dual coil heads that's why there's a gap when you use the heads i sent you off an evod?
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Clivia
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Post by Clivia on Jul 8, 2014 19:42:08 GMT
sammy13 - what keeps you from wrapping a bit of wire around a screw driver ? - specially if you do anything else yourself already - when the coils need to be redone - I dismantle them and throw the pieces into the ultra sonic - gosh never thought that this ultrasonic is such an important vaping ingredient
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sammy13
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Post by sammy13 on Jul 8, 2014 19:49:40 GMT
sammy13 - what keeps you from wrapping a bit of wire around a screw driver ? - specially if you do anything else yourself already - when the coils need to be redone - I dismantle them and throw the pieces into the ultra sonic - gosh never thought that this ultrasonic is such an important vaping ingredient Hi Clivia my hands, wrists, fingers lol. If I have to grip anything tightly, or be very precise, such as writing with a pen, or stitching, my hands/ fingers go in spasms. Writing a letter I would just stop and restart when they have straightened back out, but making coils I would end up in a mess lol. Just dismantling a coil head to wash the other day I had to give up, and plonk it in half whole as I dropped it 4 times my hands were just not working
The premade coils I get are difficult for me to do, but once it is in I can, thread, rethread, rethread until I get it done lol.
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lairey
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Post by lairey on Jul 8, 2014 19:52:52 GMT
I throw my used heads into a plastic tub, along with everything else that needs cleaning. Once every week or two I rinse everything the stick it in the ultrasonic, heads intact. Once cleaned and air dried, they go into my "to be recoiled" tub. When I can be bothered, I recoil them in batches and put them in my "recoiled" tub. No worrying about losing bits by dismantling unnecessarily. That and I'm lazy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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