Penelope v1 help

[Grandad]

Hi all

a couple of questions

can you and if so is there a guide for microcoiling a penelope v1

The little nut that gos insde the ceramic to hold the pin in place keeps coming un done which is giving me eratic ohms readings any ideas or a fix please.


Cheers

Grandad

[blakey]

Yes you can, make the micro coil first and then if you have a zapper you can fit the non res legs to it
Failing that, find out how much wire your micro coil needs then cut to size leaving a little at each end for your non res connections, once joined then wrap your micro coil.
I've done it both ways and it works fine

With regards to that nut, just put a screwdriver in there to hold it in place and then use the airtube gnurling to get a decent enough grip and give it a good tighten.

[OneDay]

Jul 22, 2014 13:50:12 GMT blakey said:

With regards to that nut, just put a screwdriver in there to hold it in place and then use the airtube gnurling to get a decent enough grip and give it a good tighten.

...making sure of course that you don't turn it so tight that you crack the ceramic

[Grandad]

Jul 22, 2014 14:11:38 GMT OneDay said:

Jul 22, 2014 13:50:12 GMT blakey said:

With regards to that nut, just put a screwdriver in there to hold it in place and then use the airtube gnurling to get a decent enough grip and give it a good tighten.

...making sure of course that you don't turn it so tight that you crack the ceramic

thats exactly what i done Grrrrrr cracked down the middle but ordered some from GG and a replacement. Thanks for info if i stuck with the normal coiling can i use ekowool instead of silica just to try it really. Thanks guys

[dave]

blakey likes a challenge Grandad I'd go for the easy life and use ready made res/non res wire in the Penelope whatever type of wick you want to put in it. You can certainly use ekowool if you want - any decent silica works well in it.

[hijack]

I got a Ephoria recently which is a Penelope clone and had a few issues which are sorted now but some were the same as Grandad
I watched the review by todd and he said his came with a rubber washer inside the ceramic and that he had to take this washer out to stop it shorting out.
When I did this I had the same problem as Grandad and the nut would easily unscrew itself which caused problems of its own.
I tried to screw it down tight but thought I was going to crack this so I put this rubber washer back inside the ceramic and was able to tighten it down without cracking the ceramic and after it was tight the metal pin was clear of the coil enough so it wouldn't short out. it hasn't come loose since.
Also the 2 reviews I looked at when they installed the coil they just left the leg that was not shielded to just sit loose in the wick channel. When I did this my resistance readings were all over the place and if I touched the coil they would jump up to something silly like 4 Ohm.
This was because proper contact wasn't being made. When you screw the 'head' into the base, if you bend the wire so it sticks out, when you screw the little ring down it traps that wire between the base and the ring and gives you a proper contact and stops any erratic readings from the wire moving. just trim when its all tightened up.

[blakey]

Jul 22, 2014 16:49:04 GMT hijack said:

Also the 2 reviews I looked at when they installed the coil they just left the leg that was not shielded to just sit loose in the wick channel. When I did this my resistance readings were all over the place and if I touched the coil they would jump up to something silly like 4 Ohm.
This was because proper contact wasn't being made. When you screw the 'head' into the base, if you bend the wire so it sticks out, when you screw the little ring down it traps that wire between the base and the ring and gives you a proper contact and stop any erratic readings. just trim when its all tightened up.

If you fold that wire into a Z you effectively make a spring that forces a good connection against the base, I never trap wires on the mk1 penelope, that's the pathway to gurgling

[hijack]

Jul 22, 2014 16:56:06 GMT blakey said:

Jul 22, 2014 16:49:04 GMT hijack said:

Also the 2 reviews I looked at when they installed the coil they just left the leg that was not shielded to just sit loose in the wick channel. When I did this my resistance readings were all over the place and if I touched the coil they would jump up to something silly like 4 Ohm.
This was because proper contact wasn't being made. When you screw the 'head' into the base, if you bend the wire so it sticks out, when you screw the little ring down it traps that wire between the base and the ring and gives you a proper contact and stop any erratic readings. just trim when its all tightened up.

If you fold that wire into a Z you effectively make a spring that forces a good connection against the base, I never trap wires on the mk1 penelope, that's the pathway to gurgling

That's a good tip that I hadn't thought of, but when it comes to gurgling, the only way you will get that is if the juice flows into the ceramic cup and down the airhole. If juice leaks into the base section, which is possible if you trap the wire then there is a rubber washer there that stops it flowing out through the bottom of the 510.

[blakey]

Once the flooding starts and you shut off the juice control to stem the flow you'll find that juice will still enter the ceramic via the locking ring that doesn't 100% tighten due to that wire that's trapped. The only way to stop it then is to turn it upside down and blow through the 510 and keep it upside for a bit till the internal pressure subsides.
Of course, the initial flooding is user error. Either the juice control is open too far or the draw is set too tight creating too much of an internal vacuum.

[hijack]

Jul 22, 2014 17:18:31 GMT blakey said:

Once the flooding starts and you shut off the juice control to stem the flow you'll find that juice will still enter the ceramic via the locking ring that doesn't 100% tighten due to that wire that's trapped. The only way to stop it then is to turn it upside down and blow through the 510 and keep it upside for a bit till the internal pressure subsides.
Of course, the initial flooding is user error. Either the juice control is open too far or the draw is set too tight creating too much of an internal vacuum.

I see what your saying. It has been one of the trickier atty's to get used to, but now ive had it for a few weeks I think im starting to work out its quirks.

What you say about the internal pressure and vacuum is the trickiest bit about it. Refilling it and just unscrewing the juice control leads to flooding as there is no vacuum built up to stop it flooding, so a couple of draws and half a turn then another couple and half a turn. After about 10 vapes you can open it up more without it flooding.

Now im getting used to it I really like it. The first week I had it I hated it, it was either shorting out or flooding, now its pretty trouble free.

[Grandad]

Thanks guys for all your tips and info, Ive just sat down and rebuilt her before i put the tank back on screwed it onto my vtr checking resistance and to make sure she fired properly, Reading 1.6 ohms which is fine and using silica all good so far. Then i unscrewed it from the mod to complete the rebuild and noticed the 510 was lose Dammmn it had come loose again.

Wondering if the screwing and unscrewing on to the mod is working it loose then i read this thread and noticed the rubber washer but its all back together now and working well so will wait till next strip down and then insert a rubber washer and do the z shape on the wire to.

Such a lovely bit of kit even the wife likes it Thanks to blakey hijack dave OneDay for your help, Will try ekowool next time round aswell.

PS Dave said about decent silica where is the best place to buy from please

[blakey]

Its a cracking attie and one that I'm very fond of. My two originals came from the first batch and they've had plenty of use and abuse but I've never yet needed to change an o-ring or a ceramic.
Once mastered you'll do like I do and fill it, put the lid on half a turn till it starts to grip the o-ring then turn it upside down before you finish tightening the lid down. All trapped air will escape into the channels without the juice.
Then I just open the juice control to where iI want it and vape it till empty.

[Grandad]

blakey filling sounds like the way i fill my KFL, something else ive learnt today been tooting away for the last 30 minutes no dry hits well happy with it.
Love the idea of the juice adjustment too< and looks sexy as hell on my VTR

[blakey]

Jul 22, 2014 18:42:26 GMT Grandad said:

blakey filling sounds like the way i fill my KFL, something else ive learnt today been tooting away for the last 30 minutes no dry hits well happy with it.
Love the idea of the juice adjustment too< and looks sexy as hell on my VTR

On the VTR I find that an o-ring around penelopes tank at the part where it fits in the VTRs barrier completely nullifies any wobbling or movement + I use a cheap airflow control that you can find on most sites for about £2.50 to save the VTRs threads

[OneDay]

Jul 22, 2014 17:33:54 GMT hijack said:

Refilling it and just unscrewing the juice control leads to flooding as there is no vacuum built up to stop it flooding, so a couple of draws and half a turn then another couple and half a turn. After about 10 vapes you can open it up more without it flooding.

I found I never needed to open the juice control more than about 0.75 of a turn to get the perfect vape for me.