VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Aug 13, 2014 22:32:56 GMT
I'm posting this so people can see what's involved and hopfully a few might even have ago. Fitting a DNA30 in a FTclone Hana case, cost under £70. I put an old Pulse G in the 510 to hammer then press in with a G-clamp, I sanded off the anodising inside the hole on the case first. I wanted the buttons a bit more recessed so used M5 washers to achieve this. I used 3 x 0.8 mm fibre optic held in place with Super Glue for the charger-board's LEDs. it looks nice and helps seal the case. Later I will cover the charging bard with white Sugru to seal the case and for strength. I took out the supplied battery contacts and converted the battery tray to provide reverse battery protection and a hot-spring for added safety. This only works for batteries that have flat bottoms and heat shrink on the bottom like the Sony VTC, the flat positive terminal will only contact the heat-shrink. I also put the batter tray so the positive end is nearest to the vent hole. I soldered single core wire to all the switches and the charger before fitting to the box. I soldered the 20 AWG extra flexible high temp wire for the power out and battery to the DNA board first as it is very difficult to get it in the holes and it is important to solder both sides. When I first tried to fit the board I found that the indentation on the inside of the case to line it up was too long and snapped the screen faffing about trying to centre it. I got a replacement screen for £11.30 delivered from StealthVape. So I fitted the screen before soldering it to the DNA board, which I prefer, but is a very unusual way to do things. The charger, switches, 510 and screen are all fitted (screen Super Glued then sealed with black Sugru). Now it’s ready for the DNA to be soldered in. Soldering all done. The charge light, it looks red to the eye, but the phone camera doesn’t agree. The finished article next to my previous DNA. Which order you solder the wires is up to you, I like the keep the wires short and neat. The Super Glue I used was Loctite Super Glue Power Flex.
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dalealan
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Post by dalealan on Aug 13, 2014 22:37:36 GMT
Brilliant write up. Makes a change to see one of these without the obligatory forest gump glue gun application and wonky wiring. Hats off to you VapingBad
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piper1
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Post by piper1 on Aug 13, 2014 22:41:39 GMT
Really nice work well done.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2014 23:04:50 GMT
Wow That's the neatest I have seen. Nice job VB.
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robby
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Post by robby on Aug 14, 2014 0:27:32 GMT
Nice work sir
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seniorphil
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Post by seniorphil on Aug 14, 2014 5:36:04 GMT
Nice one John, super tidy, I hope this inspires someone.
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dagl
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Post by dagl on Aug 14, 2014 17:27:06 GMT
Jon I'll take my hat off to you! (maybe later..) Are you going to put magnets in the case/cover for battery removal? (you know what I mean)
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decoy
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Post by decoy on Aug 14, 2014 17:33:56 GMT
thats how they should come from the factory i see you didnt end up using the fat daddy's connector(apparently its a 10mm thread) still trying to talk myself outa the segali 50 watt box and build my own but at the price it is im struggleing
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Aug 14, 2014 17:44:25 GMT
Jon I'll take my hat off to you! (maybe later..) Are you going to put magnets in the case/cover for battery removal? (you know what I mean) Cheers, I just ordered some magnets the well in the battery cover is 4 mm deep so gone for 6mm x 4mm x 2mm and will use either 4 or 8. I did put some extra Sugru above the battery to help stop the cover moving sideways.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Aug 14, 2014 17:47:33 GMT
thats how they should come from the factory i see you didnt end up using the fat daddy's connector(apparently its a 10mm thread) still trying to talk myself outa the segali 50 watt box and build my own but at the price it is im struggleing Too impatient and tight to shell out on a M10 0.5 mm pitch tap as it's such a strange pitch nothing else much uses it, I still have the varitube connector so if I change my mid later I will see if davetherayon will rent me the one he's getting. I would deffo only go for the SX with the square screen and step-down my self and may do later.
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Q
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Post by Q on Aug 14, 2014 17:56:52 GMT
I'm following a guy with interest, he's built a mod using one of theseHe's removed one of the battery trays to make room for the electronics and used a board from a Vamo v5, but I'm sure that a DNA30 would go in quite well, so its powered by 2x 18650s
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Aug 14, 2014 18:26:19 GMT
I'm following a guy with interest, he's built a mod using one of theseHe's removed one of the battery trays to make room for the electronics and used a board from a Vamo v5, but I'm sure that a DNA30 would go in quite well, so its powered by 2x 18650s I looked at those and other power bank boxes when I did my small DNA and decided against them as no good way to build it so you can quickly swap batteries, which is a deal breaker for me. It's a bit too big for me to, the Hana is right on the limit and only really did this one because the box, buttons, battery sled & 510 were £12 as a backup/2nd DNA. It does look like you can fit a DNA + 2 1860s, but you would have to charge them in parallel which I don't like either. We are all different and it would make a nice 2 18650 DNA. IMO the box is the hardest thing if you want to make a compact box mod.
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dagl
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Post by dagl on Aug 14, 2014 18:32:05 GMT
Jon I'll take my hat off to you! (maybe later..) Are you going to put magnets in the case/cover for battery removal? (you know what I mean) Cheers, I just ordered some magnets the well in the battery cover is 4 mm deep so gone for 6mm x 4mm x 2mm and will use either 4 or 8. I did put some extra Sugru above the battery to help stop the cover moving sideways. Thanks mate I'll adjust my cart accordingly!
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Post by Super-Shiny on Aug 14, 2014 18:38:48 GMT
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Post by Super-Shiny on Aug 14, 2014 19:32:00 GMT
Forgot to add, take note Hana mod makers/vendors out there, this is how the mod should look like in the inside
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