DiscoDes
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Post by DiscoDes on Oct 30, 2014 19:13:40 GMT
I have discovered the problem with the micro USB port, there is a plastic bit inside with the connections on it that has come away from the PCB, it is sandwiched between the 2 PCB's behind the soldered in connection pins. I was not rough with my iStick so just a word of warning to others be careful when plugging in your charger cable! This picture shows the brass negative connector pin so that the wire can be soldered on. You need to desolder this wire or cut it in order to be able to slide the circuit boards out. You DO NOT need to cut/desolder the +ve wire just pass the top cap back through the body (push down from top) to get the innards out. This picture shows the soldered in longer bank of connector pins on one side if you want to get the boards apart you need to desolder these, but good luck, they are double sided soldered. This picture shows the soldered in shorter bank of connector pins opposite too the others. I spent about 20 minutes trying to desolder the connector pins but it still will not budge, and I am using a solder pump and a Weller temperature controlled soldering iron station designed especially for electronics. so I've put it to one side, I should hopefully get my replacement from VE Jason tomorrow. I'll keep the parts so if any one needs spares I may be able to help. I've also removed the battery as it was discharged and I currently have it in my intellicharger and will let it charge (not fully) for a while so it will store better.
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Marcus
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Post by Marcus on Oct 30, 2014 19:20:05 GMT
A lot tidier than I thought it would be inside for the price...
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Oct 30, 2014 19:25:15 GMT
That's how the keep the price so low it is "designed for production" so it can be assembled in minutes.
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sleedale
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Post by sleedale on Oct 30, 2014 19:29:19 GMT
Not as pretty undressed hope you you are able to find and fix the problem
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Oct 30, 2014 19:32:22 GMT
It looks like he will have to de-solder 12 links between the circuit boards to get at the USB, no biggie as DiscoDes is handy with a soldering iron.
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sammy13
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Post by sammy13 on Oct 30, 2014 19:49:34 GMT
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Oct 30, 2014 19:58:44 GMT
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DiscoDes
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Post by DiscoDes on Oct 30, 2014 20:16:07 GMT
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Oct 30, 2014 20:22:53 GMT
Try something springy between the boards to keep pressure pushing them apart and adding solder if you just have the two pin connector to de-solder.
Thanks for the pics and info.
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DiscoDes
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Post by DiscoDes on Oct 30, 2014 20:35:06 GMT
Try something springy between the boards to keep pressure pushing them apart and adding solder if you just have the two pin connector to de-solder. Thanks for the pics and info. Unfortunately I think I'll have to unsolder both sides to get at the USB socket.
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charliehorse
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Post by charliehorse on Oct 30, 2014 20:46:04 GMT
Try something springy between the boards to keep pressure pushing them apart and adding solder if you just have the two pin connector to de-solder. Thanks for the pics and info. DiscoDesThat would be my suggestion as well, though it's probably going to be almost impossible to do if its the two pin connector on one side as well as the (10 ?) longer bank of connectors on the other side. You will struggle using a soldering iron to keep the solder runny enough on them all at the same time to split the boards if you can't sook it all out as you go. Depending on whats in the surrounding area on the boards you can be totally risky and use a paint stripping heat gun (definitely at your own risk and with the battery removed and tinfoil covering up the sensitive stuff) but the best way is to find someone with the necessary reflow station who can easily swap out the USB socket at the same time. ronaldo would probably have all the (professional) gear ? Seems a shame to leave it broken after such a short time.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Oct 30, 2014 21:04:26 GMT
You probably won't want to, but you could cut them, de-solder individually and replace with single core wire.
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DiscoDes
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Post by DiscoDes on Oct 30, 2014 22:18:54 GMT
Thanks for the advice Guys, I may try undoing the 2 pins again and try and fold it back but the tracks are pretty fine and I need to do it in the daylight. However then resoldering the usb port back on might not be too easy as it is between a lot of components mostly surface mounted and for £18 I have 2 more on the way and I ask myself, is it worth it?
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dallas
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Post by dallas on Oct 31, 2014 0:28:58 GMT
I will tell you that we have the same problem in Denmark and i will try to make it in 1-3 days, so i can come back and tell you if i can make the istick usb connection.
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Phoenix .
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Post by Phoenix . on Oct 31, 2014 7:45:17 GMT
OMG, I thought this gadget was going to be THE one with no faults, it will be just my luck to get one that is 'broken'.
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