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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2015 18:48:12 GMT
Have a look at this @letsavit it shows what I have experience and more than likely what is giving you problems with the Kayfun v4 I doubt the Kayfun screw length is the problem, with it right in there's plenty of length to make contact. I also doudt it's the 510 on either of you mods, I suspect the problem is the Kayfun spring which is connected to the screw, as illustrated above. It's all evolving and you can't expect perfection from the start, the kayfun, and others weren't designed for nickel builds and temperature sensing, but rest assured someone will come out with a modification to improve it, part of the the beauty of the Kayfun is the plethora of modding bits, I'm waiting on the S-kit to open up the air flow at the moment. I look at the watts/temp thing a little differently. I've just vaped my Kayfun set at 25w and 380f, looking in the mirror the temp didn't go over 360f. it's nice vape for the evening, but when I pick it up first thing in the morning it's way to hot so I drop the power to 15w and get a cooler vape. After walking the dog, back with a coffee it's back up to 25w, It never goes over that except for the preheat, so it's not controlling the temp otherwise it would be putting in more power to get the temp to 380f. It's the power I use to adjust the vape, not the temp. I use cotton wicks so to avoid any burning I could just set the temp to the fire point of cotton which is 410f, then if I ran the tank dry or run out of puff mid draw the cotton is protected and I don't get a dry hit. I doubt there will ever be a time when you will be able to set a temp and have the device set to auto and just vape. You cant build a coil to suit a certain temp, the coil you build and the watts you put into it will always be the defining thing. Pre-heat and the way the DNA40 delivers the power are the stand outs imo.
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 20, 2015 19:14:27 GMT
From my point of view being a big dripper fan, I do set a temp and it stays there all day everyday, it is at 420F and temp controlled for most of the time (probably over 90%). It`s certainly not restricting the vape in any way, 420 is the perfect point for my juice/wick.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2015 19:28:43 GMT
@scooby thanks. if you want a cooler vape then turn the temp down....cool = temp, watts = power? I'm testing it now,have not touched watts today. That video; the guy has the same ohm reader, atty and mod as me...the spring changing the resistance in the Kayfun is no difference to the spring in the floating 510, I need to compress that as well it to get a correct reading. Ie extend the postive pin on the atty, had to on 3 now, it's not just the Kayfun 4 but that shows the issue I am having with getting an accurate readings through a spring. Thank you the video link as its confirmed what I been thinking the last few days. Coils, well at least coils in direct contact with the juice are not required to produce vapor. Think different sized plate heat exchangers with real thermostatic sensors thats the future, think chicken soup in different size pans again...ha ha we don't need to know how many watts it takes, just let a chip throw as much as it needs to get the juice to temp.....coils and wick getting gummed up are not required. 50p bett that coils and wicks are gone if you so choose in 5 years.....
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2015 21:06:44 GMT
robby yep drippers are something I know nothing about and probably do require a different approach. @letsavit less watts cooler, more watts hotter, always was and don't see it being any difference with the DNA40. If I up my set temp from 380f to say 430f it wouldn't make a hotter vape as it never gets to 380f anyway. increasing the power would make a hotter vape. Spring loaded connectors on a mod are desirable and proven, maybe the DNA40 is finding a weak point. perhaps a lot more of the connectivity problems are down to that? Yep were in the stone age still but as long as we have coils we'll have watts Oh and I bet it'll be well before 5 yrs.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2015 21:10:58 GMT
From my point of view being a big dripper fan, I do set a temp and it stays there all day everyday, it is at 420F and temp controlled for most of the time (probably over 90%). It`s certainly not restricting the vape in any way, 420 is the perfect point for my juice/wick. Just thought robby do you set select 40w so when vaping the temp is restricted by TP to your set temp of 420f by reducing the wattage?
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 20, 2015 23:09:20 GMT
From my point of view being a big dripper fan, I do set a temp and it stays there all day everyday, it is at 420F and temp controlled for most of the time (probably over 90%). It`s certainly not restricting the vape in any way, 420 is the perfect point for my juice/wick. Just thought robby do you set select 40w so when vaping the temp is restricted by TP to your set temp of 420f by reducing the wattage? I set it about 5 watts above what I am expecting, I could set it at 40 and forget about it but in the event of a fault who knows what may happen @scooby. But that`s just me. But I agree with your point that the watts set is unimportant as long as it is above the expected wattage for the coil/juice/temperature selection.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2015 6:23:56 GMT
Cheers robby I'll have a play, been vaping my SquapeR set to 25w, that suits the coil I've built, the temp is set to 380F (just because it's below 410f, the fire point of cotton) and the vape is great. I notice that after the initial preheat that the temp reaches a max of 350-360f through the draw with a constant 25w power, ie no temperature limiting. I've now set the temp to 360f and the max 40w so as to allow temp limiting to control the wattage. I'll leave it at that and see how I get on.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2015 16:31:23 GMT
robby yep drippers are something I know nothing about and probably do require a different approach. @letsavit less watts cooler, more watts hotter, always was and don't see it being any difference with the DNA40. If I up my set temp from 380f to say 430f it wouldn't make a hotter vape as it never gets to 380f anyway. increasing the power would make a hotter vape. Spring loaded connectors on a mod are desirable and proven, maybe the DNA40 is finding a weak point. perhaps a lot more of the connectivity problems are down to that? Yep were in the stone age still but as long as we have coils we'll have watts Oh and I bet it'll be well before 5 yrs. Ok scooby, think we need to beg to differ. I'm regulated with temp only now, it will call for the watts as required. Is something i have been doing for the last 20years with regards heating liquids, hence why I'm questioning and going against the grain and quite possibly the designers intentions of this board.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2015 16:34:11 GMT
Just thought robby do you set select 40w so when vaping the temp is restricted by TP to your set temp of 420f by reducing the wattage? I set it about 5 watts above what I am expecting, I could set it at 40 and forget about it but in the event of a fault who knows what may happen @scooby. But that`s just me. But I agree with your point that the watts set is unimportant as long as it is above the expected wattage for the coil/juice/temperature selection. Use the watts just above the temp as protection, flip this technology around........
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 21, 2015 16:44:16 GMT
The temp adjustment has to have control otherwise it`s just a VW mod
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Tom
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Post by Tom on Jan 21, 2015 16:50:53 GMT
40w regardless for me. The speed to temperature is quicker. Still no burnt hits or problems since November. The temperature is the only thing I change depending on the juice I'm using. RA - 380 Custard - 400 Most others - 420 Still playing
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2015 16:51:08 GMT
Cheers robby I'll have a play, been vaping my SquapeR set to 25w, that suits the coil I've built, the temp is set to 380F (just because it's below 410f, the fire point of cotton) and the vape is great. I notice that after the initial preheat that the temp reaches a max of 350-360f through the draw with a constant 25w power, ie no temperature limiting. I've now set the temp to 360f and the max 40w so as to allow temp limiting to control the wattage. I'll leave it at that and see how I get on. Cool, glad youre trying it......
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2015 17:03:34 GMT
40w regardless for me. The speed to temperature is quicker. Still no burnt hits or problems since November. The temperature is the only thing I change depending on the juice I'm using. RA - 380 Custard - 400 Most others - 420 Still playing I'm playing catch up.... Two days now and have never noticed my juice change so much in 4months of vaping until I forgot about watts and adjusting temp only.......
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2015 18:46:46 GMT
Ok scooby, think we need to beg to differ. I'm regulated with temp only now, it will call for the watts as required. Is something i have been doing for the last 20years with regards heating liquids, hence why I'm questioning and going against the grain and quite possibly the designers intentions of this board. I think you hit the nail on the head @letsavit because the DNA40 is a temperature protected system, not a temperature regulated system.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2015 18:49:24 GMT
The temp adjustment has to have control otherwise it`s just a VW mod Yes, that's exactly what it is, a VW device with temperature protection.
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