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The Tank, this comes with a 0.5 ohm OCC stock coil installed.
Underneath are the Accessories consisting of a spare glass tank, a full set of replacement O-rings, Muji cotton wick, a spare spaced 0.5 RBA deck coil, spare terminal screws, a 1.2 ohm OCC stock head, the important wee blue screwdriver and the RBA deck with a 0.5 ohm spaced coil installed.
First up building the RBA deck with a 0.5 ohm spaced coil wicked with Muji cotton.
Cut off approximately 4" of 0.4mm Kanthal and wrap around the shaft of the small blue screwdriver, keep the wire taught to the shaft as you wrap and you need 5 wraps spacing each wrap a mm or 2 apart, try and keep the wraps spacing relatively even. Each end of the wire should point in opposite directions. It should now look something like this :
Next up with the coil still on the driver compress the coil against the shoulder of the screwdriver so all the wraps are touching then release, you do this easily with your fingers and may have to repeat once or twice. On release your looking for all the coils to equally spaced and not touching.
Here's the coil compressed, I'm only using pliers as it's easier to get a clear pic.
And after releasing straighten the legs with your fingers.
Here's the atty and an RBA section.
The RBA breaks down into 3 parts, the base, chimney and top cap. The base can be difficult to separate from the chimney, if you find this use the points of the scissors to locate in the juice channels from below and then twist off the chimney, remove the top cap from the chimney.
Screw the the base of the the RBA into the base of the atty securely.
And then screw the atty base into an ohm meter for stability.
Position the coil over the air hole whilst still on the blue screwdriver ensuring the coils legs are at the bottom. With the screws loose position the first leg down the side of the first screw and tighten the screw down then secure the other leg. Once secure you can make minor adjustments to the coil position to ensure its central and directly over the air hole by moving the screwdriver.
Wiggle the spare Kanthal legs to ensure a neat break, remove the screwdriver and then check the resistance of your coil, you should get 0.5 ohms. You may wish to fire the coil on a mod at this point to check for hot spots and even heating of the coil.
Cut a strip of the Muji cotton about 5mm wide for highish VG juice or 7mm wide if you use high PG juice.
Moisten one end of the cotton and screw to a point.
Place the pointed tip of the cotton into the coil.
Then pull it gently through the coil trying not to distort the coil, you need to be gentle here. If you notice the coils are now touching you can ease then apart again to ensure they are evenly spaced and not touching with a flat bladed jewellers screwdriver.
Pull the two tails of the wick up vertically and slide the chimney over the wicks and screw the chimney down firmly.
Cut the wicks to length at about 5mm above the top of the chimney.
Using the jewellers screwdriver curve the end of each wick down against the inside wall of the chimney until the end of each wick is down on the RBA deck. Try and keep the wick fluffy and spread it out across the whole width of the deck.
Now juice up the wick ensuring you soak the whole of the wick including and especially under the coil. using the end of a straightened paperclip ease the wick on the deck either side away from the juice channels so you can see the juice channels clearly. This is important.
Here you can clearly see the exposed juice channels either side.
Screw on the RBA section top cap securely.
Juice time, invert the tank and squeeze juice in between the Central air tube and the the glass tank until the juice level is just below the top of the air tube.
With the tank still inverted, invert the base complete with the RBA section and after locating the RBA hole on the tank air tube screw the two parts together securely.
Full tank, leave it stand upright for 5 minutes, set the airflow to your preferred position, single hole, dual hole or full bore open and your ready to go.
Here's a Riptrippers video of the above method
Don't really see the point in rebuilding the OCC heads given the RBA deck gives a better vape and is less fiddly to coil but for those who wish to here's another video on the OCC head rebuild.
Subtank RBA Section Clippers (and scissors if not sharp enough to cut cotton cleanly) Kuro Coiler or other rod/drill bit to coil on - I used 2.5mm Screwdriver (Phillips head) Kanthal - My preference is 0.42mm (25.5awg) Cotton - I have used Japanese Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers means you can fire the coil whilst pinching, normal tweezers are fine. None are pictured. DOH
Making your coil
I have used 12 wraps of 0.42mm Kanthal aiming for 1.3ohms.
Use a coil wrapper, coil jig or a plain old screwdriver to wrap your coils.
If you hand wrap you will likely need to either pinch and squeeze your coil once on your atty or pinch and heat with blowtorch/lighter.
The Kuro Koiler means not having to do this step
Seating your coil
Position your coil in the centre of the RBA deck, keeping the coil on the bar that you wrapped it on.
With the screw heads on the deck raised, place your legs through the gaps at opposite sides and tighten down the screws, trapping the wire.
The wire does not have to wound around the screwed like many atomisers.
Position the coil directly over the air hole. Remove the rod.
Wiggle the excess tails of your coil off, if this moves the coil then the screw heads need to be tighter.
Place the RBA base onto the base section of the subtonic mini.
Testing and tweaking your coil
It is important to test the ohms of your coil (imperative if using a mech). Mine came out to 1.3ohms.
I have used the rDNA to test the ohms, any mod that read ohms accurately is okay to use or of course an ohmmeter.
Slowly pulse the coil until it glows evenly. If there are still hot spots, pulse, then squeeze the coil together with tweezers. If you do not have ceramic tweezers do not pinch while firing!
The coil should glow from the centre out.
Cut a strip of cotton, I like to use about 6mm then remove a layer.
Roll the whole wick piece you have cut so it becomes round, be light handed.
Roll one end tighter, you can be rough now, and feed it through the coil.
The cotton should slide through without disturbing the coil but should have some resistance. If either of these are not true, do the cotton again - The wicking is key!!
Snip off the ends to where the cotton can easily reach the bottom deck but not much more and certainly no less
Pinch the cotton tails up and place the barrel of the chimney over the wicks and coil.
Screw it down, no need to go too tight, but all the way down.
Tuck the tails down into the channels with a small screwdriver end GENTLY, try not to squash the wick at all, fluffy is better.
Where the juice channels are, the centre of the wick, you can see the holes on the outside of the chimney, just move the cotton slightly in toward the coil - This will make a good clear path for the juice to come in.
Drip 2-3 drops onto each side of the wick and one directly onto the coil.
Give it a fire to check all is still good before complete assembly.
Screw it all back together.
Fill the tank up and vape away!!
I recommend starting with low watts, and building up to where you fell comfortable.
For me this build works great up to about 20 watts when it begins to struggle to keep up with wicking.