kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 28, 2015 12:50:58 GMT
Hi 2 months and one day since the pink iStick arrived, and yesterday it stuck, going right up to the 10 seconds. Happened a few times, difficult to stop. Realise it's due to juice leaking (Kanger tanks). Even with a case on, juice just leaks down inside the case. Have always felt the iStick design is wrong, as who in their right mind would risk leaking down into the firing button and possibly the battery? Taking it apart and cleaning it is out of my realm at this point, and it's not misfiring today, but just worrying, especially 2 months in. I have a blue iStick 50w too, which I've had for about a month, and I notice the button push feels different on that, more 'clicky' and button sticks out more; is that from a later batch, where eleaf are addressing the sticky button issue? Can't afford to purchase anything else at this point, as I must save for a replacement pc, but just wondered which good regulated mods have the tank positioned at the opposite side away from any risk of leaks into the firing button. Thanks
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GunJack
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Post by GunJack on May 28, 2015 14:09:38 GMT
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 28, 2015 17:17:22 GMT
Thanks GunJack That's a nice little mod. Wish it was a bit broader, and the tank could go even further away from that side, but it's definitely nice; bookmarked. EDIT: just got an email about pre-order the Innokin Cool Fire IV, and that has the tank on the other side to the switch; cool! Only shame is it's 2000mAh. Plus I'm clearly being a bit slow, as I'm noticing other Innokin's are the same. Oops. The MVP3 is so on my list now.
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charliehorse
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Post by charliehorse on May 28, 2015 21:00:17 GMT
Hi 2 months and one day since the pink iStick arrived, and yesterday it stuck, going right up to the 10 seconds. Happened a few times, difficult to stop. Realise it's due to juice leaking (Kanger tanks). Even with a case on, juice just leaks down inside the case. Have always felt the iStick design is wrong, as who in their right mind would risk leaking down into the firing button and possibly the battery? Taking it apart and cleaning it is out of my realm at this point, and it's not misfiring today, but just worrying, especially 2 months in. I have a blue iStick 50w too, which I've had for about a month, and I notice the button push feels different on that, more 'clicky' and button sticks out more; is that from a later batch, where eleaf are addressing the sticky button issue? Can't afford to purchase anything else at this point, as I must save for a replacement pc, but just wondered which good regulated mods have the tank positioned at the opposite side away from any risk of leaks into the firing button. Thanks What Kanger tank is it you are using that's leaking kittyvape just out of interest.
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 28, 2015 21:48:47 GMT
Seems to be all of the Kangers, charliehorse ... Nano, Subtank and Subtank Mini. I prefer them all with fully open airflow, but have closed up the Mini's airflow a bit today ... not enough time yet to see if the usual leaks happen. Tend to chain vape a lot, and just chuck in some more juice, so am rarely washing the tanks; maybe that makes a difference?
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charliehorse
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Post by charliehorse on May 28, 2015 21:54:59 GMT
Ahh, I take it then that the juice is leaking out the airflow hole kittyvape. Not got the any of the subtank range myself but i haven't seen anyone else saying that they have the same issue ? Since it's happening with all your ones its unlikely to be a missing or damaged o ring or seal. Is it stock heads in them all or the RBA section or a bit of both ?
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 29, 2015 7:53:43 GMT
Ahh, I take it then that the juice is leaking out the airflow hole kittyvape. Not got the any of the subtank range myself but i haven't seen anyone else saying that they have the same issue ? Since it's happening with all your ones its unlikely to be a missing or damaged o ring or seal. Is it stock heads in them all or the RBA section or a bit of both ? I've been using mainly the stock heads, but recently tried a bit of wicking and using premade coils, on the Subtank and Mini; at the moment, stock heads, as I ran out of coils (with burning the legs off, and goofing thus causing 0.1 ohm unworkableness, lol). Seems to be the same either way, as far as I can tell, although possibly less when not using stock heads. I've even wondered if it's how I vape, as I'm on 24mg, with it only being 2 months since I stopped smoking, and max drag is 4 seconds, sometimes less, and not to lung. Not sure if me using sub ohm stuff in a not very sub ohm way makes a difference? Probably sounds ridiculous, but I'm really at a loss as to why so much leaking and had noticed something somewhere about pressure in the tank.
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chykensa
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Post by chykensa on May 29, 2015 12:14:42 GMT
I was talking to a vendor yesterday who has gone right off the Kanger Subtank range just because his customers are always complaining about the leaking. Something which occurs to me is this: what wattage are you using? If the power is too low, the juice isn't being vapourised and may be accumulating in and around the wick, causing the leakage. I have an MVP3 and it's a great bit of kit. I never need to go above 25W so it ticks that box, and the battery lasts for ever. It's just solid, and the power button is indeed on the other side from the 510/tank. Well worth the money, it is easy to use, a nice big display which is easy to read, and feels like it will still be firing this time next year at the very least.
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 29, 2015 13:18:46 GMT
I was talking to a vendor yesterday who has gone right off the Kanger Subtank range just because his customers are always complaining about the leaking. Something which occurs to me is this: what wattage are you using? If the power is too low, the juice isn't being vapourised and may be accumulating in and around the wick, causing the leakage. I have an MVP3 and it's a great bit of kit. I never need to go above 25W so it ticks that box, and the battery lasts for ever. It's just solid, and the power button is indeed on the other side from the 510/tank. Well worth the money, it is easy to use, a nice big display which is easy to read, and feels like it will still be firing this time next year at the very least. Thanks chykensa and, yes, I can really understand why your friend may have gone off them. 24w is what I always use. Glad you're enjoying the MVP3. I've got a serious craving for one, lol, after the misfiring happening again today, just on the pink (older) iStick, so at least there's the blue one still there, which is behaving right now. Watching youtube vids of the lovely pink MVP3 didn't help, lol. Yes, the battery looks great on the MVP3, only very slightly less than the iStick, and so worth it, with the tank not being over the power button. I may have to take the leap, lol, as a really reliable piece of kit is worth it's weight in gold, for sure, and it's getting very wearing very quickly to always be worrying about leaks. Which tanks do you use? EDIT: bought it, lol. Myepack. I do have a Polar FT60 I can sell on Ebay, so will end up in pocket.
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phatfil
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Post by phatfil on May 29, 2015 15:02:23 GMT
im no expert but have found that some atty's benefit from wicking a little longer and using a pin or poker poke some of the wick into the juice channels , this can act as a barrier to the thicker liquids stopping them from flooding the vape chamber and therfore stopping the juice from running out the air in holes. dont clog the juice chennels with wick, poke in enough wick to fill circa 1/2 the channel width it will swell slightly when saturated with juice to stem the flow and still wick the liquid upto the coil. hope thats clear and not confusing..
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chykensa
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Post by chykensa on May 29, 2015 15:46:37 GMT
kittyvape - you see, you succumbed (it wouldn't have taken me that long to crumble, I can assure you!). I on't think you'll be disappointed with it, it's a great mod. I use Kayfuns, a couple of Taifuns with the AFC bases, and latterly a couple of iSubs from Innokin, and also a Goblin which I have successfully recoiled with duals at .5ohm - it's a great flavour, but boy is it thirsty!
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 29, 2015 20:09:33 GMT
im no expert but have found that some atty's benefit from wicking a little longer and using a pin or poker poke some of the wick into the juice channels , this can act as a barrier to the thicker liquids stopping them from flooding the vape chamber and therfore stopping the juice from running out the air in holes. dont clog the juice chennels with wick, poke in enough wick to fill circa 1/2 the channel width it will swell slightly when saturated with juice to stem the flow and still wick the liquid upto the coil. hope thats clear and not confusing.. Thanks phatfil Great advice. I think I did this by accident earlier, after a disastrous wicking. Forgot to push two little spaces in each side, the thing that normally gives the juice more space to flow. It's a bit crackly, lol, and I'm wary of another horrible burnt blast, but no leak so far ... haven't vaped a lot in the last hour or so since wicking it, but it seems good.
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 29, 2015 20:19:12 GMT
kittyvape - you see, you succumbed (it wouldn't have taken me that long to crumble, I can assure you!). I on't think you'll be disappointed with it, it's a great mod. I use Kayfuns, a couple of Taifuns with the AFC bases, and latterly a couple of iSubs from Innokin, and also a Goblin which I have successfully recoiled with duals at .5ohm - it's a great flavour, but boy is it thirsty! when it's a most excellent mod, chykensa, would be silly not to, is my reasoning Won't need to worry about the power button ... how ironic if the stress had made me want a stinkie, lol. You've got a great collection there. Noticed in a post you said you'd made massive amounts of custard ... can totally understand why, with getting into DripDropVapour's custards recently; good job you do make large batches, with that Goblin! Will have to try different tanks; which would you say is the easiest for a 2-month vaper to coil and wick? So far I'm using pre-made 0.5 coils and at least 1 in 3 turn out okay, lol, on the Mini.
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chykensa
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Post by chykensa on May 30, 2015 8:15:46 GMT
To be honest, one of the excellent subtanks will do just as well without all the faff! I have a couple of iSubs, the new one from Innokin, and they are top drawer. If you want a RTA, then a Kayfun or Taifun would be a good punt; get 'em from China and despite the wait, they are really cheap and the quality is really very good. There are plenty of tutorials around on this forum for recoiling and wicking, and of course loads of help - just ask!
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 30, 2015 9:08:31 GMT
To be honest, one of the excellent subtanks will do just as well without all the faff! I have a couple of iSubs, the new one from Innokin, and they are top drawer. If you want a RTA, then a Kayfun or Taifun would be a good punt; get 'em from China and despite the wait, they are really cheap and the quality is really very good. There are plenty of tutorials around on this forum for recoiling and wicking, and of course loads of help - just ask! Thanks chykensa The iSubs certainly do look nice. Will check out the RTA's too; love Fasttech, great customer service and well worth the wait. Look forward to further coiling/wicking! and the MVP3 arrived 9.30am! You just don't get better service than that [thank you very much, Ash myepack] and it's awesome!
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