naDiel
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Post by naDiel on Mar 9, 2016 8:13:05 GMT
Hi guys!
I know that I don't attend often and don't put much info on here but I blame my busy lifestyle for that.
Anyway straight to the point - can you use Stainless Steel wire for non TC vaping?
I know that SS mesh is used in genny type atties but can you use SS wire for 'normal' coils?
If so - would you use it spaced or touching?
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decoy
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Post by decoy on Mar 9, 2016 8:15:53 GMT
I believe you can use it the same as kanthal so do as you wish
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bones3
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Post by bones3 on Mar 9, 2016 8:20:40 GMT
naDielyes you can use ss wire for normal coils , i have been doing so for atleast 2 years now Ftech do a great range of NR-R-NR SS wires or you and get just SS wire from quite a few places now it is lower resistance than normal Kanthal or Nichrome so you can use more and make longer coils so more coverage i used to use 0.25,0.3 and 0.35mm and i never went above 0.5-0.8 ohm and always spaced my coils hope this helps
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decoy
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Post by decoy on Mar 9, 2016 8:49:05 GMT
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naDiel
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Post by naDiel on Mar 9, 2016 9:43:25 GMT
decoy & bones3 - thank you for insight on this. decoy I have seen this article and basically this is only applicable when you have gunk on your coils. When you initially dry burn them with NOTHING in it then it just get coated with protective layer. And I change my coils anyway once they get too gunked Now just to get to payday to get my batteries for my first own mod
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bones3
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Post by bones3 on Mar 9, 2016 14:54:17 GMT
never dry burn my coils i havent in a long time , the chance of breathing in oxide particles ,however small
i just check them for shorts with a Multi meter after building
when the juice starts to colour up when atty is in use i just take it off and stick a fresh atty on and put the old one for cleaning
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Mar 9, 2016 18:13:15 GMT
SS works fine in non temp mods, but as the resistance raises with temp with devices without real time regulation like mechs, YiHi and Pioneer4U VW devices the power will decrease slightly when it warms, mechs & VV boards will act consistently like a weaker version on Evolv's temp limited preheat. The YiHi & P4U boards could be different each time as they only measure the resistance at the beginning of the fire and pick a voltage to give the watts selected for that res, the power will decrease the boards just won't know. Evolv boards will just give you stable power, sorry lots of other boards will fall into one or other type of behaviour I just don't know which are which you can tell if you pop a coil and it's still firing the same volts it's like the YiHi.
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tonyb
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Post by tonyb on Mar 10, 2016 18:02:16 GMT
Yes you can use SS like kanthal in normal wattage mode. I do dry burn mine when gunked up and have not detected any ill effects. I don't dry burn Ni200 or Titanium any more but I will warm them up to try and get rid of any gunk before re-wicking. What I am reading from that article is that SS is the safest of the 3 wires featured.
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jtc
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Post by jtc on Mar 10, 2016 19:12:58 GMT
I'm using stealth vapes ss 316L exclusively now and I always dry burn and then I use a small brush on the coils. Who knows what long term affect this will have but I've been doing this with ss for around a year now and all seems fine
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Mar 10, 2016 19:22:14 GMT
I was really put off dry burning ss after seeing how the surface breaks down, sometimes the flavour gets funky to and loads comes off if you quench it in water, back to Ni200 I find it cleans best out of Ni, Ti, SS & NiFe30 dry burning and quenching at 600 F. Sorry off topic for wattage mode thread, but I would only heat Kanthal until it glows.
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jtc
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Post by jtc on Mar 10, 2016 21:25:08 GMT
Yeah I think I should avoid the dry burn thinking about it. Ive ignored it for quite a while but it does make sense not to
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tim
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Post by tim on Mar 16, 2016 23:05:55 GMT
I just burn the feck outta them! Red as ripe strawberrys, then run 'em under a cold tap. Clean as new. Safer than smoking. Not Ti or Ni though. They shouldn't be overheated. I pretty much do this with all SS and K1. Not tried more than those, but what I'm saying is, it's safer than crossing the road.
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jtc
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Post by jtc on Mar 17, 2016 5:03:52 GMT
Hmmm Ive been turning up to 600f and heating up then lightly brushing. Ive done this the last week to see how it goes. It gets most the gunk off and the layer it leaves seems to not affect anything. I also read that it's a natural protective coating the wire develops which is good to leave on. So far so good. Time will tell on this one
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stealthvape
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Post by stealthvape on Mar 17, 2016 9:34:01 GMT
There's dry burning then there's dry burning. As long as you don't exceed the working temperature of the wire then it's fine. We want to burn gunk off the wire not make a DIY lightbulb. The colours in that chart are a rough guide and be sure to do it in subdued light 1400c for kanthal 1200c for nichrome 700c for nickel 800c for NiFe30 800c for 316L Best to leave Titanium alone re: dry burning
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jtc
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Post by jtc on Mar 17, 2016 11:37:38 GMT
Great info thanks
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