dna 75 nube HELP

[VapingBad]

Nov 23, 2016 18:06:00 GMT decoy said:

next silly question
the batt in the dna 200 don't seem to last long
is there some way of setting/checking its ok/not setup right on escrbe
sorry to be numb

There are 3 ways it may make you think the battery is low:
Battery gauge, this depends on the watt hours you set, but it will not stop you vaping when the battery gauges is low.
Weak battery message means one or more cells are sagging to the low cut off setting (3.09 V for LiPos) and it will start to reduce the power
Check battery message the battery is even lower or just can't supply the amps.

The only setting that affect vape time is the low cut-off, for LiPos this should be 3.09 V for 18650 2.8 V, this is the voltage under load not the resting voltage and as each cell is independently tracked the weakest cell will trigger the messages.  To look at how good your battery is run device manager and vape with the mod connected. Select Pack, Cell 1, Cell 2 and Cell 3 and see if one cell is sagging more than the others or they are all sagging too much.

[decoy]

thanks guys
it was set to 9wh did the watt hour calc and now set to 14.3wh
should make a wee diff maybe

[decoy]

well that seems to of worked as I'm not sat constantly charging the thing
I never ran it to empty just watched the batt bar disappear at an alarming rate

when using fused claptons with 26g centers and 0.16 kanthal as the wrap is it necessary to remove the kanthal outer wrap were it clamps to the atty as its a bit of a pain to do
interesting results in a mini goblin v3 in single coil mode as after getting rid of the hotspots and wicking it up it went a bit nuts then settled down after 5 mins on wattage mode and vapes well in tc mode now

[decoy]

wee update from the idiot wiff new toy
this steam engine thingy is an absolute necessary to get claptons working or any other silly coil you want to build working in tc but when you do its lush
put in what your building and down load the csv file, seems a bit of a pain but wow do it make huge diff

oh isub coils are a right pain to rebuild and get working in tc but I might have a cunning plan, or not (rofl)ill let you know how that go

the goblin v3 is working well with sensible builds as is the kayfun v3 but the subtank refuses to play

have to say a big thanks for all the help I've received on here as these dna chips really are a learning curve

[car147]

If it's the Kanger Subtank you are mentioning in the above post decoy . They were the only tank i could never get working properly in TC, sometimes it would work for a few tokes, then a lovely blast of burning wick, there must be poor connection issues with these imo and must be down to the design as no matter how well you build and double check everything they fail at some point.

ps i should have said this was with the RBA, Ni200 coils from kanger were ok

Great tank for normal vaping though

[decoy]

Dec 15, 2016 13:45:30 GMT car147 said:

If it's the Kanger Subtank you are mentioning in the above post decoy . They were the only tank i could never get working properly in TC, sometimes it would work for a few tokes, then a lovely blast of burning wick, there must be poor connection issues with these imo and must be down to the design as no matter how well you build and double check everything they fail at some point.

ps i should have said this was with the RBA, Ni200 coils from kanger were ok

Great tank for normal vaping though

yeppers daft part is I got one to learn tc on because it was single coil and the rba looked simple to use
I don't think the rba centre pin is long nuff to get a good contact with the floating centre pin
defo not the best tank to try tc out on

[SteveF]

the subtank rba will do tc but I've found it better with ni200 and titanium, the low coefficient of stainless wire combined with poor contact seems to cause more resistance reading problems.

[VapingBad]

I have found them OK with ss with the Evolv and Varitube 510s, IMO 510 quality matters a lot with temp protection and a hell of a lot doing it with ss.