coil making problems

[mecnun]

Hi - I am hoping someone can offer me advice as I am struggling to build my own coils:

my box is hcigar vti75 nano and the tank is siren 2 RTA 22mm. I vape at 1+ ohm and my goal is to build coils at over 1 ohm. The whole reason I bought this tank was so that I can make my own coils and I also got the coilmaster v3 kit to aid me.

Currently I have Kanthal A1 24AWG that comes in the coilmaster kit and using the free cotton that also comes with in the kit. The wrapping seems really easy so my problems:

1. Steam engine showed I needed 13 wraps but it seemed too many so the first coil I built with 7 wraps measured 0.75o on the coilmaster meter but when put on my box it measured 1.30 odd...over 0.5 diff I cant understand why they differ so much. The second coil I built measured 0.80o with 8 wraps shows as 1.44 on my box.. Cant understand why so large a difference. I am using 3.0 bit for wrapping

2. My own built coils drain battery much faster than the pre-built ones that came with the RTA but there were only 2 and I am saving one. Is this expected? I notice my coils need power for 4-5 seconds from cold to get glowy..once warmed they fire up ok.

3. The pre-built coil lasted me almost 2 months with wicking changes. My first build lasted me a week and I threw it away in disgust. The second I built I am using now but battery drain is still an issue. I am draining it down to nothing by early evening whereas I would expect to have at least a 1/4 left.

Additionally I opened up the tank a number of times during vaping on my 1st coil and had to re-wick it 2-3 times in a week because the cotton in middle had gone black and actually disintegrated/split in the middle. When you guys build do your wraps touch or should there be a gap between them? I know mine was tight together so that may have been an issue

I have seen coil wrapping tutorials on utube and feel ok with actual building and wicking so I dont know what fundamental part I am missing...

Anyways thanks for reading and if there are any pieces of advice you can offer I would appreciate it.

[phtumshk]

As good as it is ive never got a coil to match steam engine specs either.

IMO a touching coil will vape hotter than a spaced coil at similar ohms both being acceptable for rebuilding.

Wicking is a fine art, once mastered Ive had coils last months that havent needed touching.
A scorched coil is most likely to tight in the coil, no juice flow=burnt wick.
Stick with it and that spare coil you have will still be in the draw in 5 years time.

[VapingBad]

I am on a train atm and not read your post as carefully as normally would, but why limit yourself to a resistance it's not a mech? Also that mod will only give full power at 0.5 ohm or less.

Your res being different from se is most likely dirty or loose connections in the tank. IIWU I would copy the physical dimensions of the stock coils that work for you, far far more important than ohms, unless you're on a mech. Good luck, it is a learning curve.

[phtumshk]

Just to add on wicking for the siren at 3mm there may be too much wick for the channels blocking the juice flow leading to your burnt wick.
Fan the wick out like a bow tie and cut the top corners off will help reduce the amount of wick in the channels..

[phtumshk]

And to add again on the wire, IMO you need .4mm or .3mm for MTL RTAs the .3 being better suited to builds above 1.0 ohm.

[VapingBad]

Wire-diameter and coil-diameter-plus-wraps are important, they may have a simple relation to resistance, but not to the vape quality (unless you say in a small window with those variables). The dimensions of the coil, winking, airflow and power are the what counts, the physical dimensions could be though as enough coil diameter for the wicking to work and enough coil too wick contact area to produce the optimum vapour. I did a guide in the guides section on designing coils on steam engine and one of the worst things to do is shot for a particular resistance, It's far more stupid choosing a car by it's weight, year weight has an effect on many things, but it's next to useless on it's own, you may want a city car or a massive Chelsea tractor.

Free yourself, don't be constrained by ohms (as long as you mod supports then and 1 ohm is far too high on a DNA75 unless you are vaping only at low power), ohms mean very little when you change wire material or the number of coils it is useless for comparing or specify what vape you want. Just yet another very unhelpful false trusium from using Mech that has little or no bearing on the majority of vapours, but still get spread around years after it's sell by date expired.

Build to the watts you like to vape at and pick an atty with the airflow you like, these are far far more important than ohms.

(sorry if that is a bit strong, but breaks my heart to see someone learning to rebuild hamstrung by falsehoods, OP as shooting for over an ohm)

[charliehorse]

Short answer is you need thinner wire if you you really want your coils to come out as a higher resistance with a suitable number of wraps.

[mecnun]

thanks for your responses guys. I have been hellbent on 1+ ohm because I am a Mouth to lung vaper, a throwback from my smoking I guess who still enjoys a cigar or 2 now and then .. I read a few guides before buying the RTA and the advice i remember was 1 OHM+ is for MTL vapers and under 1 ohm for direct lung vapers. I was just going by that and I vape at 16.4 watts.

I am not sure I like direct to lung vaping... I will try some of the advice in above posts but want to say I was beginning to feel a bit despondent about the whole thing especially as I bought the kits specifically so I could do it myself.

[phtumshk]

Ive got several spare coils of unused .3 wire if you want 1 sending FOC for you to try.
7 or 8 wraps at 2.5 mm will be around 1.2-1.4 oms IIRC.
PM me an address if you want a coil sending.
EDIT: You dont necessarily have to vape at 1ohm+ for MTL, I MTL at 0.8-0.9ohms.

[VapingBad]

Even much lower on other materials like SS and Ni

[mecnun]

Mar 14, 2018 1:05:57 GMT phtumshk said:

Ive got several spare coils of unused .3 wire if you want 1 sending FOC for you to try.
7 or 8 wraps at 2.5 mm will be around 1.2-1.4 oms IIRC.
PM me an address if you want a coil sending.
EDIT: You dont necessarily have to vape at 1ohm+ for MTL, I MTL at 0.8-0.9ohms.

Really appreciate the offer and its very kind of you however I will try to stick to making them myself for now to get it right as I have a pre-built to go by already. May take you up on it later!!

Again thanks.

[domesticextremist]

Grab yourself some 30 or 28 AWG kanthal, you will fined it easier to get close to your preferred resistance. Though being thinner it won't be so sturdy.
Agree with others, it sounds like your problems may be more related to wicking, which is basically a knack you develop to know how much is enough.

Persevere - it took me a while to really get the hang of it, but when you do you will be glad that you never have to buy stock coils or prebuilt ones again

[mecnun]

Mar 18, 2018 23:58:33 GMT domesticextremist said:

Grab yourself some 30 or 28 AWG kanthal, you will fined it easier to get close to your preferred resistance. Though being thinner it won't be so sturdy.
Agree with others, it sounds like your problems may be more related to wicking, which is basically a knack you develop to know how much is enough.

Persevere - it took me a while to really get the hang of it, but when you do you will be glad that you never have to buy stock coils or prebuilt ones again

Yeah I will experiment a bit once I have used this up. I am beginning to think its wicking as well. I must have totally fluked the first one I made because it lasted me ages Rest just burn/black out and I usually find them in 2 pieces broken in middle or as in today when I changed it, one leg had come off.

[tonyb]

As above, get thinner wire to raise the resistance and reduce the amount of heat held by the coil when you stop firing and to reduce the amount of power you need to heat the coil. All of this will give you better battery life.

You wick should give a little resistance when you pass it through the coil, it should be as tight as you can get through the coil without deforming it.

Your thicker wire and lack of wick has caused the wick to burn through. You just need to adjust accordingly.

[tonyb]

As above, get thinner wire to raise the resistance and reduce the amount of heat held by the coil when you stop firing and to reduce the amount of power you need to heat the coil. All of this will give you better battery life. I prefer a spaced coil as it is less likely to burn through the wick.

You wick should give a little resistance when you pass it through the coil, it should be as tight as you can get through the coil without deforming it.

Your thicker wire and lack of wick has caused the wick to burn through. You just need to adjust accordingly.