Penelope Fever

[Ellen]

Jul 29, 2012 19:01:22 GMT esmecullen said:

Yay glad for you!!

I think that may be part of my problem too hun, it would fire, I'd put the mouthpiece on and a minimum vapour, try and adjust and then I'd get an error on the provari, so I think wire from the coil may have been touching something...... so going to wait til I get the proper spacer (thank you for coming to my rescue Jason) and try this again, and also order new wick because I'm almost out lol

I had followed everything to a T I thought, wire tucked into the spaces, covered by the wick etc, it was only when I was taking a closer look I noticed with one coil, that it was only firing on one side or sparking in places. Then I noticed that the knots from the joins were still sticking out and touching the outside of the ceramic housing etc...and on one as soon as I put the mouthpiece on there was nothing. So I made another coil, made thinner smoother joins that didnt stick out and I knew as soon as the vapour hit my throat that it was fixed....
I'm sure you will get there Esme

Also big thanks to Jason for the ceramic

[OneDay]

I had exactly the same problem today. Made the wick, test fired, lovely. Put her together, nothing but an error message. Wasted half a tank of juice trying to get it back in the bottle.
It was the twisty bits where the res and no res wires join. I'm struggling to get the pigtails small and neat. The one on the posi side was sticking through the wick and shorting when I put the mouthpiece on.

[blakey]

Jul 29, 2012 19:01:22 GMT esmecullen said:

Yay glad for you!!

I think that may be part of my problem too hun, it would fire, I'd put the mouthpiece on and a minimum vapour, try and adjust and then I'd get an error on the provari, so I think wire from the coil may have been touching something...... so going to wait til I get the proper spacer (thank you for coming to my rescue Jason) and try this again, and also order new wick because I'm almost out lol

The positive wire ( the one that runs down the ceramic to the center post) should not be allowed to touch anything else, a common mistake with this is having the point where the join of the wire is made sticking out so that when the mouthpiece is screwed down it touches it and creates a short, This could well be your probelm

[PeeKay]

Jul 29, 2012 21:02:20 GMT OneDay said:

Wasted half a tank of juice trying to get it back in the bottle.

I had that problem exactly one time. Then I got a small funnel and now tank emptying is no problem - as long as I plug it into a 30ml bottle of course.

[Gordy]

Jul 29, 2012 21:05:08 GMT blakey said:

Jul 29, 2012 19:01:22 GMT esmecullen said:

Yay glad for you!!

I think that may be part of my problem too hun, it would fire, I'd put the mouthpiece on and a minimum vapour, try and adjust and then I'd get an error on the provari, so I think wire from the coil may have been touching something...... so going to wait til I get the proper spacer (thank you for coming to my rescue Jason) and try this again, and also order new wick because I'm almost out lol

The positive wire ( the one that runs down the ceramic to the center post) should not be allowed to touch anything else, a common mistake with this is having the point where the join of the wire is made sticking out so that when the mouthpiece is screwed down it touches it and creates a short, This could well be your probelm

as Blakey says make sure that the positive wire is hidden behind the wick and doesnt touch the mouth piece also a place that could cause a prob is where it comes out of the channel and connected to the post at the bottom. its easy for the wire to move when screwing the nut and the wire moving and touches the metal housing

[blakey]

This is what you should be aiming for, Everything inside the channels and behind the wick and no wires protruding from anywhere



Gordy's right about that wire at the bottom too, keep it all compact

[jayjay]

I think this was part of my problem Blakey, other han getting confused on what wire was what. Having too long a joins meaning both wires came too far down the ceramic housing. Someone mentioned earlier the join needs to be tight and short in length. Wether it does in fact stop the firing process I'm not 100 percent but I'm pretty sure it does. I dont believe it gets mentioned in the vids. wether my drawing just confuses more I dunno, but pink is resistant and blue is non resistant, and BOTH wires passing the nut.
I believe this is what NOT to do.

[Ellen]

Have you been making wires like this? ??? The resistance wire only goes around the wick at the top (the pink squiggly coil shape) down each side it should only be blue non resistant wire....
Hope I'm making sense, what I mean is each end of wire should be non resistant, with resistant wire only in the middle, and only the resistance wire gets wrapped around the wick to make the coil

[jayjay]

Yeah My first attempts looked like in the pic. Only my coiling was alot worse!
This was a picture of what NOT to do. I think this is what I was doing WRONG. I don't think it gets mentioned in the videos.

[Ellen]

Ah ok, gotcha, I thought you were making coils like that now.
This thread will eventually cover every potential problem soomeone could have with a Penelope or Ody

[jayjay]

Maybe not as bad as in the pic, but if the resistants wire comes down the side of the housing as part of the joining process, and makes contact with the top of that nut, then I BELIEVE it's game over?

[Ellen]

Jul 29, 2012 23:53:57 GMT jayjay said:

Maybe not as bad as in the pic, but if the resistants wire comes down the side of the housing as part of the joining process, and makes contact with the top of that nut, then I BELIEVE it's game over?

That's certainly what was happening with my first few coils/tanks. Some of the resistance wire was coming down the sides and bits of wire from the joins was poking through the wicks and touching the housing or the mouthpiece when I screwed it on, that's why I was having inverted hamster cheek issues and pitiful thin vapour

[Gordy]

this is what you want with the twisted wires being hidden nicely behind the wick so it cant touch anything

also at the bottom keep the wire away from the metal housing

[esmecullen]

Jul 29, 2012 22:06:58 GMT blakey said:

This is what you should be aiming for, Everything inside the channels and behind the wick and no wires protruding from anywhere



Gordy's right about that wire at the bottom too, keep it all compact

Ah I see, I think that is also part of my problem as well, I think I can build this in my sleep now, so many times I've taken it apart and back together lol. But I am having a little difficulty on getting the joins small and tight and sometimes the joins run down both channels. so this is what is probably making the error messages the penny has dropped (not the kit lol)!!

I have tried and tried to make the joins as small and tight as I can, obviously I'm not doing that. Would appreciate any tips on doing this though, is there some tip that anyone could impart to me............... hopefully soon I will have all this up and running

[blakey]

Go back to post 361 on page 19 esme, use tweezers to make the twists in the wire
or- if you find that too fiddly try using a bit more wire and make the ends a bit longer to make the twists, after about 4-5 twists bring back the no-res wire and make the securing wind as normal. TRIM OFF the surplus wire with your scissors and that'll tidy it all up a bit
It's the wire between the 2 joins that predict the most of the resistance