tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Mar 23, 2015 17:52:53 GMT
That`s a bit of a giveaway lol, can see a lawsuit being raised any minute lolol Not if it was legitimately licensed. Smart move if they did. Better to make 5 bucks royalties per unit than having it cloned and get nothing. |
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Mar 23, 2015 9:55:59 GMT
All graphs are referring to the dna 40
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Mar 18, 2015 19:21:35 GMT
I'm kinda out of the loop on the smok fail since I've been too busy dealing with my dna acting up lol. I got a new one though. Let's hope this one works.
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Mar 18, 2015 16:38:05 GMT
I'm incredibly tempted to get one of these but after watching the review of the authentic evolv chip by Phil bursado I don't know if it's worth the hassle of not!! For those that ordered from 3fvape, did you get hit by VAT and customs charges? Just for dry hit protection it's worth it. No matter how experienced you are, sooner or later you'll be watching a movie, driving at night or absorbed in some subject and when you least expect it... Bam... That burned dry coil taste... Disgusting. With TC, you don't need to worry anymore... It will just stop producing vapor. My two cents |
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Feb 16, 2015 12:21:32 GMT
You also might want to use temp protection just to protect the wick and don't require maximum vapor all the time.
For example, if I set my dna to 400f and 40w, my atty will give me 40W of power initially and with subsequent draws it will set down to 28W with big clouds
However, if I keep the same temp and set 20w, the atty will be at 380f to 400f depending on the succession rate of the draws with moderate amount of vapor. The battery will last longer and when the wick finally dries out, it will temp protect the wick.
Evolv let us adjust the wattage to give more flexibility. Just like dr00g said, if something happens like jumping out of tc, at least you're not getting 40w dumped in your mouth.
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Feb 6, 2015 17:50:58 GMT
Basically, the way you wicked your setup allows the coil work at 17w while the wick provides enough juice to the system to keep it naturally at 17w. No problem there.
Problems might arise if you're powering your coil above the flow the wick can provide (hence drying out) and tc will kick in. That's the purpose of tc.
I can vape at 40w and 410F and the coil doesn't go over 400F because the wick can provide the juice... Another question that arises is... Do I want to vape at 40W? If I don't, I'll reduce the W and just vape at the setting I want. Once the tank hits empty, tc will go off anyway.
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Feb 6, 2015 14:01:15 GMT
The only probllem is we dont know how accurate the setting is, especially on the clones @scooby. I go with 450 for everything now. I think that's the sensible way to treat it, the exact temp probably varies by atty, but setting to taste would still work well even if the base line is a bit off as the margins are so fine. If your bored one day you could scorch test some dry cotton to see how close it is. Maybe I can help a little. Using virgin dry (never wet before) rayon on a authentic dna 40, set at 390F and 40w, you get a tiny streak of light brown on the wick. I wouldn't say scorched but rather "affected". Obviously the rayon will never display any mark once wet even when you vape it till no vapor is produced, not even at 410F. If you repeat my experience on a clone, you can judge pretty accurately if the settings are off and which way and work with that. Hope this helps Regards Tony |
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Feb 6, 2015 0:21:30 GMT
Crystal , totally up to you, but your original board may have returned by the time a clone ships from China. You're probably right  |
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Feb 5, 2015 12:45:30 GMT
Got a green light to rma my authentic dna 40. Should I wait on kanthal or get a clone to keep me going on ni during the wait? :/ Sorry I don't really understand what you are asking here? Your getting a genuine Rdna or returning one? I don't understand the reasoning between waiting on Kanthal and getting a clone to use Ni on. If your planning using the temp limiting feature of both devices you will need to use Ni200 whether clone or original. I'm returning for replacement a defect dna 40 board. Since I don't have any other temperature control device, I was wondering if I should spend the next week's on kanthal while my dna 40 board is returned to me or if I should grab a clone board to get me going in the meanwhile on temperature control. Was this clearer for you? Regards Tony |
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Feb 5, 2015 0:45:30 GMT
Got a green light to rma my authentic dna 40. Should I wait on kanthal or get a clone to keep me going on ni during the wait? :/
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Feb 2, 2015 21:41:20 GMT
Tempered is by far the best. You can get it from stealthvape.co.uk
Talk to Rob. He's the Best.
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Feb 2, 2015 21:24:13 GMT
In the winter it's common for ball bearings to dry out and you get a horrible noise. My quick fix is to kick them and they will shut up (and keep working) which gives me time to keep working and replace the fan before I kick it too many times (and break something  ) Liquid coolers usually need some topping off albeit not frequently. It's like our car radiators. Sometimes you need to top it off even if you don't have a leak. I burned the first cpu and processor I disassembled (20 years ago) but at that time cpus were symmetrical (486 dx4 100mhz) so I connected it the wrong way (90 degrees off). The magic smoke left and I wasn't able to put it back in  |
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Feb 2, 2015 20:15:42 GMT
Let's just hope the liquid did stay where it belongs or its not just the fan you will need to replace. If it's just the fan, I agree with jcol... a bit of thermal paste and a nice cooler and off we are |
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Feb 1, 2015 22:02:38 GMT
I have a original dna 40 from the batch right before the gold revision and it's wacked in C mode (even miss fired a few times) and garbles the screen from time to time in F mode. Hard to hear a golden one has been found with glitches  Where on FB is this? |
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tchavei
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Post by tchavei on Feb 1, 2015 17:54:23 GMT
I have an original DNA40 from late December (it has both C and F modes) and although I wish it was OK, it isn't. At high watts it still garbles the screen some times. Evolv did made a fix which consists in resetting the screen on each fire but it's only masking the problem. Initially I had other issues but with a lot of care and patience I think I manged to solve them all. There is still some resistance creeping (between base 0.15 up to 0.18) but it's probably my spring loaded 510 connector fault. I wonder if these clone boards have been glitch free regarding to screen issues. I've read the whole thread but no mention about it. Oh, on the real dna 40, after it goes to sleep, it will fire without delay if there is less than 120 minutes between uses. More than two hours and the board will go to deep sleep and although the board will fire on first click, there is a delay as the chip is booting and showing the DNA welcome screen. BTW, this is my first post. I joined the forum just to read this thread Regards, Tony. |
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