hogweed
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Last Online Jun 24, 2015 14:55:29 GMT
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Post by hogweed on Jun 24, 2015 14:55:29 GMT
Yes open/spaced and yes blakey told me it goes better after having a screw, it should be easier with a screw and less problematic to space them, but not absolutely essential. I have tried the screw method and you have to wind it onto the screw itself. You can't wind it then put the screw in and space the wraps as being Nickel, the wire just springs back to touching each other. But I did a tight micro coil type build and it vapes great on the eVic vT60. Of course there is still the possibility that something will happen, but so far so good. Only prob I heard with tight coils is hot spots and TC isn't accurate, but I don't vape at a setting, I vape at what setting gives me the vapour I like, so who gives a shit what temp the thing says it is running at? |
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hogweed
New Member
Joined:March 2015
Posts: 3
Location:
Likes: 1
Recent Posts
Last Online Jun 24, 2015 14:55:29 GMT
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Post by hogweed on Jun 24, 2015 14:48:48 GMT
when coiling with Ni200 wire for a temp control mod should i be aiming for an open/spaced coil or closed/tight coil? if open/spaced is a machine screw a good idea to use as a forming mandrel? or is a more open design preferable? many thanks for advice and input.. I just did my first Nickel coil for my Kanger Sub Tank RBA section and did a tightly wrapped coil using the Kuro Coiler and 28 gauge Ni200 wire. The thing hits like a steam train! The TC seems to work fine and shows a resistance of around 0.18 ohms. But I have noticed I need to set it at around 220 celsius or it is too overpowering (I have good lungs and like a thick mosit vape) whereas the Kanger prebuilt nickel OCC coils don't produce enough vapour even at max settings. What a disappontment Kangertech! If I turn the temp down, it goes down and vice versa, so the TC must be working and I have had no burnt or dry hits yet. Not sure if this is totally wrong or dangerous as I heard the problem is hot spots on the coil, but when I did a test dry burn it glowed evenly from the inside out like any good Kanthal coil would. |
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hogweed
New Member
Joined:March 2015
Posts: 3
Location:
Likes: 1
Recent Posts
Last Online Jun 24, 2015 14:55:29 GMT
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Post by hogweed on Jun 24, 2015 14:36:07 GMT
I saw a video today that the batteries could be an issue on them I've had one for a few days now. Who cares about whether they are 4500 or 5000 mah honestly? The thing has plenty of grunt and the batteries last for ages on a full charge. Apparently P. Busardo has a MAJOR problem in that it jumped out of TC while he was vaping at high wattage and he copped a mouthful of hot splutter! I sure hope mine doesn't, and hasn't so far. One thing I have found is, (this is my first TC mod), that the nickel coils by different makers vary from great to crap! The Kanger OCC Nickel Coils are SHIT! I got 2 packs of 5 with mine and have gone through 4 in a few days. They work fine at first, then quickly deteriorate. The vapour production just goes WAY DOWN and even setting it at MAX everything it is still mediocre. So I tried a nicikel build on the RBA section of the Sub Tank Mini and it is GREAT! Set to 250 celsius at 35 watts and it is almost too strong for me, so plenty of headroom there. Has anybody ELSE had a bad experience with Kanger Nickel OCC prebuilt coils for that Sub Tank or Sub Tank Mini? Please share as according to Rip Tripper his coil lasted him for weeks and was still clean as a whistle! My first 3 were so gunked up with shit (I used the same liquid on the RBA and other nickel coils) and very disappointed KangerTech!!! |
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