My MVP wouldn't charge last night so pulled it apart.
This was the culprit the charging port
It broke lose tonight and it started to rattle about inside
Prior to it breaking loose I had a couple of problems over the past week trying to get it to charge.
I realised if I wiggled it about in a certain position I could get it to connect, I knew then something was about to give.
The charging port has two metal prongs on the underneath and should be soldered to the circuit board indicated by the arrows.
Also located on the port are 5 very small pin like connecters to the rear which also should be soldered.
I started off by removing the four retaining screws on the top cover and very carefully pulling the top cover away from the body.
Be careful because you will only be able to pull it apart a couple of inches before the wires prevent you going any further.
At this point you will need to remove the small circuit board held in place by two screws indicated by the arrows and this will allow you to disconnect the red and black wires going to the 510 connecter.
If I was to do it again I would consider cutting the wires at a suitable place as apposed to de-soldering them from the 510 housing.
It was a nightmare to re solder the black wire back on.
Hope you’re not getting board.
Now that the wires and circuit board have been disconnected I removed the viewing window and the two chrome + and – buttons
I used a jeweller’s straight edge screwdriver to lift one of the viewing window corners slightly which allowed me to just peel off the window which was held down by adhesive tape.
From there I removed the bottom four base cap screws and a piece of rolled up white packing material that was visible when the top cap was removed.
Now that’s done you can slide the remaining internals out through the bottom of the device thus revealing the battery and a couple more circuit boards.
Go a head and slowly pull the base of the battery away from the bottom circuit board.
You will now be able to see and remove the two retaining screws on the circuit board.
That’s the easy part all done, now you have to figure out how to repair it and this is the way I decided to do it. I first soldered the charging port back on to the board.
I then carefully tested that the USB cable was making a connection and the lights lit up, make sure the exposed wires are taped up red/black prior to testing to prevent shorting.
It did light up but was still faulty so it had to be the 5 pins at the rear of the charging port not making a good enough connection.
I only had the one option and it was a gamble and it was to make sure that my soldering iron was free of all excess solder and very carefully place the tip of the iron over all the connections at the same time, I know It’s not advisable and nor do I suggest anyone do the same it is my property and decision to deface it.
It worked and I am now getting a perfect connection every time.
As an added protection i reinforced the repair by putting hot glue over the top of the solder joint.
Please be advised that this was a repair that I carried out on my own property and understood the risks
I accept no responsibility nor encourage anyone to follow this review.
I would strongly recommend that if you experience problems with your device seek professional advice.
I love mine and would be lost without it. May have to get a back up 
