Vaporshark 40 and atlantis fitting

[bunglebear]

Hi all

Dont know if anyone has the same issue it not major (yet) just niggling me:

Everytime i change the liquid in atlantis or take off for whatever reason when i reattach the vaporshark says check atomizer...
I unscrew, reattach and same message. Try firing.. Nothing.
Now it does recognise it eventually (seems to me when i hold VS horizontally to check display) but driving me mad why it does it... And only 50/50 does it ask if new head

Any thoughts

Cheers

[Toondog]

Have you tried cleaning all contacts with vinigar or white spirit? Sounds random doesn't it ? I had this trouble for ages with my terminator tank on my evic, was pulling my hair out (that's a lie I'm bald) people kept saying "clean your contacts" my contacts looked fine to me must be electrical. Has to be electrical. Eventually I took the very shiny and clean bottom off my termy and half hartedly scrubbed it with a bit of vinegar. Tried a drop on the five ten connector too. Cleaned it off and guess what it never ever happened again! The terminator was new as well. I hadn't realised oxidisation can be totally transparent.
Anyway. That was a very long reply and might not be your problem but definitely worth a go!

Chris

[kellywelly]

Everytime I see a post regarding the VS40, it seems to be because someone is having issues with it, on here, on other forums, on utube.

I've had my rdna30 for about a month now, and it performs faultless. I could have got the 40, but considering I stick at around 15w, maybe boogy on up to 20 to test the water, I did'nt see the point in the 40.

The 40 has STILL got bugs, in my opinion, they rushed it out before perfecting it. The 30 is flawless, I'm sure the 50 will be released before the 40 is perfected

For anyone looking at a flawless box mod, (and funds permitting), go for the rdna30.

If 30w is not enough, then ok, but the rdna40, do your homework peeps before buying.

Just my 2 cents.

[Greg]

Dec 26, 2014 17:01:38 GMT kellywelly said:

Everytime I see a post regarding the VS40, it seems to be because someone is having issues with it, on here, on other forums, on utube.

I've had my rdna30 for about a month now, and it performs faultless. I could have got the 40, but considering I stick at around 15w, maybe boogy on up to 20 to test the water, I did'nt see the point in the 40.

The 40 has STILL got bugs, in my opinion, they rushed it out before perfecting it. The 30 is flawless, I'm sure the 50 will be released before the 40 is perfected

For anyone looking at a flawless box mod, (and funds permitting), go for the rdna30.

If 30w is not enough, then ok, but the rdna40, do your homework peeps before buying.

Just my 2 cents.

Your right there have been some issues but from what I've seen most, not all, have to a great extent been user error regarding the new wire and temp control. Now that's certainly not a criticism of users as its new technology and it appears a bit of a learning curve.
But the difference between the 30 and the 40 isn't just 10 watts.
ive seen plenty speak very highly of the 40 once it's set up correctly 

[kellywelly]

I'm sure, that once the 40 is set up correctly, it vapes well. I'm also convinced that alot of (problem posts - so to speak).

It maybe.... new wire/new setup/new temp control issue.................. not sure.

It may also be..........rdna40/ must have one of those/arrives in post/ how the **** do I set up/make this work situations

If the 40 floats yer boat/ and you make it work, then good, I'm chuffed for yer.

I'm not slagging the 40, I'm a fan of VS, my best buy is (rdna30).

It's down to what works for you.................

and the rdna30 with a kayfun/fogger/tayfun/rose/and my favourite............. the Lemo, they all work, and thats what I like, screw it on/find your W and it works.........

[macmagoo]

Dec 26, 2014 17:25:48 GMT Greg said:

Dec 26, 2014 17:01:38 GMT kellywelly said:

Everytime I see a post regarding the VS40, it seems to be because someone is having issues with it, on here, on other forums, on utube.

I've had my rdna30 for about a month now, and it performs faultless. I could have got the 40, but considering I stick at around 15w, maybe boogy on up to 20 to test the water, I did'nt see the point in the 40.

The 40 has STILL got bugs, in my opinion, they rushed it out before perfecting it. The 30 is flawless, I'm sure the 50 will be released before the 40 is perfected

For anyone looking at a flawless box mod, (and funds permitting), go for the rdna30.

If 30w is not enough, then ok, but the rdna40, do your homework peeps before buying.

Just my 2 cents.

Your right there have been some issues but from what I've seen most, not all, have to a great extent been user error regarding the new wire and temp control. Now that's certainly not a criticism of users as its new technology and it appears a bit of a learning curve.
But the difference between the 30 and the 40 isn't just 10 watts.
ive seen plenty speak very highly of the 40 once it's set up correctly 

I have an rDNA40 and so far it has performed faultlessly. As has been said previously most of the issues are user issues and nothing to do with the DNA40. Use it properly and it will work.

[Deleted]

Mine has performed without any faults and i have another on the way.
Its not about having 40w its about the temp control with nickel. Until you try it you'll never understand how different to kathal it is.
If they had made a 30w with temp control i would have bought that instead.

[Deleted]

I have to agree with kellywelly my rDNA 30 is a pleasure to use, 15 - 20w is also the range I tend to vape at.

Temp control is a millstone round the 40's neck, or perhaps a noose would be a more apt description as it just strangles the vape.

It's not user error either, at the moment I'm vaping a 0.3 ohm head in a mini nautilus set to 450f and 7w, if I set the power higher TP cuts in and restricts it to 5-7w anyway.
The only way to get a decent vape is to set the temperature right up or turn it off. I experience the same with builds on all my atties.

I'm not sure what the differences others are experiencing, as even when I set the temp higher or off I'm not sure I can detect any improvement to the vape with nickel over kanthal.

It does have a saving grace though, you can turn off TC and you can use kanthal.

I don't regret getting it, but with hindsight I wouldn't make the purchase again and would've preferred another rDNA30.

[macmagoo]

Dec 26, 2014 21:44:16 GMT @scooby said:

It's not user error either, at the moment I'm vaping a 0.3 ohm head in a mini nautilus set to 450f and 7w, if I set the power higher TP cuts in and restricts it to 5-7w anyway.
The only way to get a decent vape is to set the temperature right up or turn it off. I experience the same with builds on all my atties.

It only cuts the power when you get to the set maximum temperature, that is the whole point of the DNA40.

[VapingBad]

When you have to coil and wicking working the only difference in the vape is better flavour from the 40 and on a genesis you can pull as fast or slow as you want and get a fantastic vape. If the coil is too small or the wicking isn't good enough it will cut in, but that's all for the good IMO.


e:
I was forgetting the pre-heat which is awesome, so much better that profiles like on the YiHi SXMini.

[Deleted]

Well i did a number of sub ohm builds with kanthal and i hated them. The vape was always too harsh and hot and if you got a dry burn
Since ive had the 40 ive done builds from .1 up to .8 which im trying now. Ive also tried twisted which was great. Never go above 420 and the vapour and flavour is as far as im concerned on a different level compared to kanthal.
I have 2 shark 30's and ive not used them since getting the 40. As soon as my second arrives the 30's will be going in the classies.

[markm]

With tanks I use the temp control to find the wicking limit, then back off the watts
So that it's not constantly hitting temp control.
If I'm using a dripper then whack it up to 40w and use the temp limit to tell me to drip.
I find it's the fast ramp up that creates a flavour bust that nothing else can match.

[Deleted]

Dec 26, 2014 21:58:17 GMT macmagoo said:

Dec 26, 2014 21:44:16 GMT @scooby said:

It's not user error either, at the moment I'm vaping a 0.3 ohm head in a mini nautilus set to 450f and 7w, if I set the power higher TP cuts in and restricts it to 5-7w anyway.
The only way to get a decent vape is to set the temperature right up or turn it off. I experience the same with builds on all my atties.

It only cuts the power when you get to the set maximum temperature, that is the whole point of the DNA40.

Yes but what is the point of that macmagoo if I have to set a temperature so high to get the power I want for a decent vape that it would burn a cotton wick if it were dry.

Example:    420f at 15w = TP almost immediately cuts power = thin vape
                 500f at 15w = TP halfway through vape cuts power = better vape
                 550f - off at 15w = No TP = good vape

I do get VapingBad point though, I can see on a dripper or fast wicking atty that TC would come into it's own and be advantage, it just doesn't work for me with my coils/gear/juice. I have seen mention of people changing there line up to suit the way the 40 works.
                
              
             

[VapingBad]

I never get near those temps @scooby 410° F on RTAs and 420° F on gennies. I have got a ChiOriGenny here at 420° F and 30 W & 35 W are still a different vape as it wicks like Oliver Reed on New Years Eve with dual 3 mm ss rope wicks. But if you inhale slowly they become the same vape as reducing the air flow causes it to hit the temp limit. It was another matter until I sorted the connection problems the clone had, I couldn't get a good vape with temp control. With the Orchid I initially found the temp cutting in too much at 410-420° F until I made my coils a couple of wraps longer to better spread the heat and it's doing great. With Kanthal I would have a vape with plenty of vapour and slightly cooked liquid, depending on the liquid that may not be too bad. I now find that I have probably vaped many litres of slightly cooked liquid in my time.

As a general note since wicking has been mentioned so much: great wicking without enough airflow is pointless.
Poor connections can cause all sorts of problems (twisted builds are more prone to this), hot-spots will cause problems, coil to small to disperse the heat will cause temp limit to cut in too early as will insufficient wicking.

[Deleted]

Airflow, airflow airflow. Why oh why didn't I think of that? I must admit I like a fairly tight draw VapingBad so I just opened up the mini nautilus wide, set 410f and lung inhaled as fast as I could. The max power I can set without hitting the temp limit is 7w. Not much flavour and way too cool to be satisfying for me. As expected increasing the power to 30w results in a very similar vape as it hits the temp limit and reduces the power to 5-7w

450f now and I can hold 15w and not hit the temp limit, still sucking like a a whore on piece work, and I think I'm getting there, it's alien to me but it's a much more flavoursome and satisfying vape.

In view of my preference for a fairly tight draw your mention of air flow has perhaps unlocked the 40 for me I feel I may have to revise the way I vape, the spheroid that lacks AFC may be not suited. I'll have a go with my Kayfun and Squape tomorrow. Cheers Jon.


Edit: sorry bunglebear didn't mean to hijack your thread, hope you get it sorted.