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Post by domesticextremist on Aug 24, 2012 10:20:29 GMT
First off hat-tip to Todd for showing this on his Vertigo. My issue with the VH-rebuild has been that the way the terminal posts are raised means that the cioil sits atop them, and gets disturbed when screwing on the spike section. This partly unravels the coil and often leads to shorting. Which is a it of a pain. So after seeing Todds quick video of making a geneisis style wicking arrangement with a stainless steel mesh wick, I decided to have a go. Firstly, you will need a sewing needle - the eye section of this is placed into one of the terminal posts to provide height for the coil and somewhere to attach the upper tail of the coil. Select a needle with an eye big enough to thread your preferred coil wire through. Screw it eye down into one of the terminal posts: With the needle inserted, the screws don't screw in too far and on my one, in the negative terminal didn't go in far enough to allow the spike section to fit. I had to put it into the positive terminal which is a bit closer to the centre. This runs the risk of shorts if the needle fouls the spike plate, so care is needed to get the size right. I did this by screwing on the spike section and marking the height:
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Post by domesticextremist on Aug 24, 2012 10:26:36 GMT
Once marked, unscrew the spike section and stick a carto condom over the pointy end so that you can find it after it has returned from orbit after cutting Chop a couple of mm below the mark with some sidesnips or wire cutters. Loosen the screw and turn the needle eye end up. You can just about see it here. Because I used the positive post, I reatteched the spike and screw to a battery to check there were no shorts due to fouling. Without the spike section it is a bit easier to see:
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Post by domesticextremist on Aug 24, 2012 10:28:45 GMT
Next step is to make yourself a SS mesh wick. I used a 20mm by 20mm square of 400 mesh ss. You need to roll it quite tight as there is only a couple of mil gap between the two posts.
Oxidise and char with burning juice as per many other videos.
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Post by domesticextremist on Aug 24, 2012 10:33:24 GMT
Here's where it gets fiddly as you have to wind your coil whilst holding the mesh wick vertically between the posts. The trick is to attach the lower end low down by poking it through the hole in the 'back' of the negative terminal and up through the top, then securing in place with the screw. Then wind your coil around the wick. This takes a while as you need to get it tight, the coils quite close together and have the wick central. finally (you need a magnifying glass for this) thread the wire through the eye of the needle and pull as taut as you can. Loop it back under and wrap around a couple of times to secure it I took me about fifteen minutes to get this right.
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Post by domesticextremist on Aug 24, 2012 10:37:29 GMT
Testing time. first do a dry burn to check for and fix any hot spots: Then prime the wick and admire the vapour It's a lot livelier than the picture shows. Next fit the spike and tank and vape away. If found this gives the best result yet with this atty. Loads of vapour and flavour and good throat hit - much better than with any silica wick and well worth the effort.
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violetblade
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Post by violetblade on Aug 24, 2012 11:40:38 GMT
Thanks Dom
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Post by Sandra (aka Chillax) on Aug 24, 2012 11:54:12 GMT
Very intresting, thank you
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Post by domesticextremist on Aug 24, 2012 13:00:41 GMT
It should give those not going to vapefest something to tinker with
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Post by domesticextremist on Aug 26, 2012 17:00:21 GMT
Well I couldn't resist tinkering with this and whilst I was shoving the mesh wick around to get it centered, I managed to dislodge a thread of wire from the mesh. This shorted out on my Riva battery and has buggered the circuitry. So top tip - awlays test these things out on a short protected mod like and Ego battery or whatever. Fortunately I have some spare circuitry around so the Riva battery can be fixed. But that's a soldering job for a rainy day. I had a better idea which gave me a chance to use my diamond coated files: I made a ceramic insulator and mesh holder Basically I filed off the base of a CE2 ceramic cup an filed the end flat. I also file the two narrower sides a b it flatter too. Though the files are eminently up to the job, it is fairly slow going on ceramic, but it can be done. I also filed the inner sides of the two terminal posts flatt (as well as the top of the negative post to give a bit more working space while coiling) and wedged the insulator down between them. This is how it looks with mesh and coil:
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ant
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Post by ant on Aug 27, 2012 12:22:26 GMT
Quote:
Dear Dom, I decided to pm as I think my questions may be a little off topic, hope that's ok.It's fine with me, though it would be better stuck in the thread so others can see and learn. No question is too daft on aaec and no thread is immune from going off-topic Quote:
So is this the VH-Rebuild from vapourhut.com/atomisers-cartomisers/VH-Rebuild ?That's the chap, though there has been a rash of similar devices coming on to the market lately e.g. Ego-customiser, Vertigo, VapoKing and probably others. They are Chinese clones of a custom mod known as the Bulli A2-T (reviewed here) www.e-cig-reviews.com/bulli%20a2-t.htmlThere are small differences in the design across the clones, but the basic idea is the same. Quote:
And why use an ego-t tank? as far as I can see it looks really small as opposed to other tank systems I have seen. Not tried rebuilds yet, ordered a vivi nova but still waiting for the post.
Cheers, AntThey use the eGo-t tank because that's what the Bulli used, at that time it was about the only common off the shelf tank system (I believe - before my vaping days even). The clones are clones , but some of them have adapters for the Type B tanks which are about 2ml (eg. Vertigo and VapoKing). There are a few threads kicking around on aaec and ukv for the various models. I'v eonly just come around to the dea of rebuilds - at first I couldn't see the point of all the faffing, nor did I have the confidence or knowledge to make best use of them. However after getting into rebuilding Visions and getting fed up of the amount of waste with disposable cartos etc, I'm beginning to think this will be the way forward. Set up costs are higher, but in the end, your only disposable bits are wick and wire, which cost pennies. HTH Dom =============================== Thanks Dom
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Post by Perpetua on Aug 27, 2012 15:41:41 GMT
As always, a really comprehensive walk through with some great photographs from you Dom. Thank you.
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Post by domesticextremist on Aug 27, 2012 15:45:12 GMT
Disclaimer - this bit may turn out not to be true. There's loads of different rebuildables out there tor try
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