maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Nov 19, 2012 0:10:19 GMT
1. Screw the top piece on to the top cap and invert it and place it on a rigid flat surface. Use a 1.8mm/2.0 mm drill bit and a dead blow/weapon of choice to knock the terminal post out.. 2. You will now have 2 wick holes the original 3mm and the new 2mm..Use a 3mm drill and drill out 2 mm wick hole..Go slow speed with plenty of water and a good coated drill bit..Cobalt/TiAn etc 3. Cut a rectangle of mesh approx 95 mm x 35 mm at approx 45 degrees to the grain and roll. Hold the ends together and torch the middle to a red glow to fix the shape. Then oxidize the wick as normal and treat with PG/VG and burn a couple of times. 4. Make your coil and vape.. I tried it with 325 mesh and initially it was ripping my throat out but seems to have settled down now..
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shamreez
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Post by shamreez on Nov 19, 2012 8:23:46 GMT
power tools and me together is a non advisable combination so I guess I would have to wait till someone starts selling atties which are reasdy made for u wicks
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Nov 19, 2012 8:51:46 GMT
You can use it as is by just knocking out the terminal..
Just roll the wick a little thinner on that side prior to insertion..After insertion it will open out slightly fill out the hole but so long as you have sufficient clearance between the wick and the hole on the coil side, it'll be fine..You just need to allow for air to enter the atty to replace vapourised juice..
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2012 9:02:47 GMT
Superb Am going to try this, not going to drill out though Cheers
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Post by domesticextremist on Nov 19, 2012 9:35:06 GMT
Love that second photo with all the juice trails spitting off.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Nov 19, 2012 11:00:49 GMT
Love that second photo with all the juice trails spitting off. Looks great doesn't it That's why I downed the voltage when I took a pic of the coil set up - so you could actually see the coil I'm not really having any wicking problems with the single wick macca so apart from the top coils being a little closer to the air hole, what other benefits are you finding?
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Nov 19, 2012 11:43:45 GMT
Maybe just a little bit more juice bubbling at the coil and enhanced throat hit due to 325 mesh...
If you have single wick which wicks well, it's just as good..Just tried it because I wanted to..No real reason..
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Ron
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Post by Ron on Nov 21, 2012 14:52:22 GMT
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Nov 21, 2012 15:19:18 GMT
Suck it and see I guess..It'll work and may be ideal for chain vapers..
I came across something last week at the lab glass factory, which I am going to try out too..
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Greigster
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Post by Greigster on Nov 24, 2012 11:22:42 GMT
I am having such difficulties with the SS wick/coil on the Aga-T. How do you stop the final wire that goes from the top coil to the posi post from glowing bright red? You seem to have quite a long wire between those 2 points. My wick seems fine with all the coils touching the SS wick but that final bit if wire just glows red. The only way I can stop this is to lean the wick so is it almost touching the centre post > Lovely looking u wick Macca
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greendollar
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Post by greendollar on Nov 24, 2012 11:34:48 GMT
I am having such difficulties with the SS wick/coil on the Aga-T. How do you stop the final wire that goes from the top coil to the posi post from glowing bright red? You seem to have quite a long wire between those 2 points. My wick seems fine with all the coils touching the SS wick but that final bit if wire just glows red. The only way I can stop this is to lean the wick so is it almost touching the centre post > Lovely looking u wick Macca i had the same problem with mine , the juice was burning off before reaching the top of the wick , to rectify I screwed down the 2 nuts on the centre post and lowered the coil , this enabled the juice to travel as far as the top coil and stopped the problem , didn't even have to bend the wick over ...hope that helps
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Nov 24, 2012 13:23:23 GMT
Loosen the top nut and relieve some of the tension in the run from the coil to the center pole nut and move the top coil up or down a touch and keep test firing.At one point you will see only the coils glowing and the run to the post will be dark..
The tighten the nut taking care not to pull the wire tight again. If you make the coil with a drill bit and take the drill bit out and fire, you will only see the coils glowing and the wire runs will normally be dark. You want to get the coil in that same condition.
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Greigster
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Post by Greigster on Nov 24, 2012 15:04:48 GMT
Thanks guys and thanks Macca, yes without the wick, it was only the coils glowing and not the top wire. Why would it make any difference whether top line is taught or not? I went through 6 ot 7 coils trying to get it right, but all top wires to the center posts were under tension. I just hope that has been my problem since I started using SS mesh. I have only ever managed to make 3 or 4 wicks/coils that worked without the glowing top but never knew what I was doing wrong. Just off to make another, fingers crossed.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Nov 24, 2012 15:08:57 GMT
When you tighten the top nut it pulls the wire and the top coil and when the tension is too much the wire digs through the oxidization layer, leading to the classic wire run/top coil hotspot.. All it normally needs is for you to reduce the tension so that the coil is in a light loving embrace with the wick rather than in a bear hug..
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Greigster
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Post by Greigster on Nov 24, 2012 16:56:46 GMT
That seemed to have worked a treat Macca, Thank you At least I now know what to look out for and the reasons for my past failures.
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