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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2013 15:28:28 GMT
Interesting way of placing the wick greigster, I will give that a go at some stage
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Magsvape
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Post by Magsvape on Jan 16, 2013 15:36:37 GMT
Mine arrived safe and sound first thing this morning - thanks Macca. Just had a quick play and same issue with the top cap - will try now removing the o-ring, pre-installed coil was a disaster, but tweaked it a bit undid the posts and reassembled and all good now. As previous posts a bit airy for my liking but will try blocking the airhole a bit. Note - mine came with 2 spare posts in the pack with the pre-coiled wick - I mention this as they are really small so be careful when you open the pack - these are going to be so easy to lose. Will update when I have had a bit more time to play, but for the price A1 OK for now.
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Magsvape
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Post by Magsvape on Jan 16, 2013 15:44:01 GMT
Interesting way of placing the wick greigster, I will give that a go at some stage Me too - and with the juice control screwed all the way down it solves the top cap problem.
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Greigster
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Post by Greigster on Jan 16, 2013 15:58:29 GMT
Got a bit of gurgling and thought I would check the coil, it seems that whilst taking the above photos, I had moved the wick down onto the airhole between the posts. I had the same problem with my Spheroid so you have to make sure there is a gap between the wick and the airhole. I was just able to move the wick upwards using a cocktail stick. I got 2 spare pins that hold the wires.....they are tiny but I guess I they got lost, it would not take much to fashion some sort of wedge from a bit of SS mesh. As said above, very airy draw so I will try a tint mesh coil in the external airhole. I like this atty so far, loads of vapour and bags of flavour and looks good on the Zmax, it was worth the money just to have a play. Good choice Macca
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alanjana
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Post by alanjana on Jan 16, 2013 16:33:26 GMT
Mine arrived today after lunch. Not had time to play with it yet, but first impression on looks is well worth the money.
Will have a good play this evening and post on here my findings.
Alan
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Jan 16, 2013 17:01:24 GMT
Another piccy My main concern was to avoid shredded fibres from the wick. I have been reading a lot about the Kayfun Mini and the system used on that seems to be that the wick sits up above the channels, the channels only being used to draw up the juice onto the wick which sits up above. Good thinking but let us know how you get on when the jucie level drops..I found that I was getting dry hits when the juice control was fully closed even though I had wicks poking out of the feed cut-outs. I usually have the wicks in the channels and leave the juice control open by a couple of threads, as in, I do not tighten it fully down to begin with.Then I smear the inside of the black O ring with e-juice and put it back inside the top cap so that with the added lubrication the top cap does not grab the cone and allows it to be fully tightened down. This way you get a good seal and I can vape it dry without a single dry hit..
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lobeydosser
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Post by lobeydosser on Jan 16, 2013 17:14:08 GMT
Mine was waiting for me when I got home. I have had a wee play about with it and its working great. Looks good on the ProVari and it vapes well.
Tell me, are the spare wicks longer than the one that is already installed on it? They look longer.
I am really pleased with mine.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Jan 16, 2013 18:05:30 GMT
Right, got home and Mine was here so I've been playing Build quality is pretty good for the money was my first thought. I dismantled completely for a good look. The atomser chamber/bell looks well designed to allow a good area for the vapour to condense in and the wick channels are designed so that juice will still feed the wicks even if the bell is tightened down, which means you only really need to open the juice control if you find that it isn't wicking fast enough. This could be due to high voltage or lower resistance burning the juice faster than the coil can be fed. For normal use the juice control can be left screwed down and by normal I mean 3.5v through a 2.5ohm coil. The base contains a spring which has two functions, one is to make the positive connection from coil to 510 connector and the other is to make the 510 connector sprung adjustable. Downside to this is that the spring is so strong that it would still sink the posts of rivas/egos and lavatubes before it gave way I understand why though, a weaker spring could come loose and cause shorts with the type of spring used, if they used a standard spring and had a collar at each end for it to sit in and stop it from moving then the problem would be resolved. They missed a trick inside that base, the airhole is massive and gives a very airy draw, a simple threaded ring could be inserted that would be able to provide airflow control, there's plenty of room and the threads go all the way even though the base doesn't but it meant that I could insert a 13mm o-ring that effectively halved the size of the hole and gave me a perfect airflow wicking is a breeze, plenty of room to work and I used two 1mm lengths of wick for the channels, one I cut to length and the other I let run about 5mm into the tank through the hole at the bottom of the channel. I put a 3mm buffer wick at the coil and wound it to 2ohms. Now, unless you remove the top O-ring in the top cap under the drip tip - you will find that every time you remove the top cap the inner chamber will unscrew too, even putting juice on the o-ring doesn't prevent this so I added some blue foam in place of the o-ring and it now remains still as the cap is turned as well providing a bit of a seal. Not necessary if you tighten the inner chamber right down and have no use for the juice control. In-fact I don't believe it was intended to be a juice control at all, I think it's just removable to allow access to the coil but without doubt it will allow a better flow of juice if it's unscrewed and exposing more of the wick. So, with the coil primed and the tank full of cocomel I fired it up at 4v on the provari- well impressed, lovely flavour and a full and thick vapour No leaks, no gurgling and consistent juice feeding. That's pretty much all you want an attie to do aesthetics aside.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Jan 16, 2013 18:06:36 GMT
PS- Cheers macca
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Greigster
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Post by Greigster on Jan 16, 2013 18:08:47 GMT
I suppose if using the supplied coils then both strands could be wound clockwise in the manner of my earlier post, with each leg of the wick laying above but over the juice channel.
I am down to about quarter tank and chain vaping,(not inhaling, don't want a headache), and vaping like a steam train without any dry hits. Will report back later when tank is empty.
I think I could easily get used to this airy vape, I rather like it.
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steve386
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Post by steve386 on Jan 16, 2013 18:14:37 GMT
Some excellent tips there Blakey.
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DiscoDes
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Post by DiscoDes on Jan 16, 2013 18:16:06 GMT
OK, I've found the reason for the short: It was the positive post that runs up to the coil plinth screwed in too tight. I just gradually took it apart, testing the resistance at each stage, unfortunately it was the last stage that showed the short. The bottom of the post that the air runs through to the coil plinth must be threaded it has the air hole in the middle but it also has a slot that I used a large screw driver to undo it about half a turn and the short disappeared. At a later time I may remove the post completely and check the grommet. Here's a picture from below, you can see the air hole and slot in the bottom of the positive post.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Jan 16, 2013 18:20:26 GMT
Sorry Des, forgot to mention..Yes you can unscrew the posi screw from the inside base with a screw driver and the whole posi piece comes out..The screw is hollow for the airflow.
Below that piece is a plastic insulator with cut outs which keeps it from grounding. If that is damaged it will short.
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DiscoDes
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Post by DiscoDes on Jan 16, 2013 18:31:04 GMT
Sorry Des, forgot to mention..Yes you can unscrew the posi screw from the inside base with a screw driver and the whole posi piece comes out..The screw is hollow for the airflow. Below that piece is a plastic insulator with cut outs which keeps it from grounding. If that is damaged it will short. No worries Macca As I have taken it apart and man handled it I have foobar'd the wick and bent the coil a bit, so I really need to put a new assembly in then give my thoughts. But even before I do that it does seem well made and is great value for money. Thanks for spotting this Macca and doing the buy in your usual efficient style
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meeee
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Post by meeee on Jan 16, 2013 18:52:15 GMT
Thanks Macca mine arrived today, also thanks to everyone for the tips. I will give it a go later.
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