Ford Car Rant...

[chrisjw]

You could try taking the EGR off & giving it a thorough clean with carb cleaner & petrol......I had to do this on mine & it was well coked up....by the way, mine isn't a ford

[jakethevape]

Feb 5, 2013 17:51:17 GMT chrisjw said:

You could try taking the EGR off & giving it a thorough clean with carb cleaner & petrol......I had to do this on mine & it was well coked up....by the way, mine isn't a ford

I was going to do this but cant afford the downtime on my car so need a direct swap out for a working one. Managed to get a genuine ford one @ trade price for £90. Going to clean the old one up and sell on ebay.

[vapertrainjames]

Feb 5, 2013 17:10:18 GMT bomberharris said:

ive had quite a few fords , focus st170, focus st ,fiesta zs deisel, all good cars. no probs with any

Same as Focus ST / Mondeo ST24 V6 & my old one Mondeo SI 94 plate still going strong/ Sapphire Cosworth / Escort Cosworth / god knows how many standard Escorts (cars people cars) & an XR3I = all flawless.

I think the issue lies with the French engine not the ford (joke)

[ChillerVapes]

(Ford Geek Here)
The car has not been looked after. The problem with the turbo is that the oil has not been changed / right type used.

MANY people still believe that fully synthetic oil is only for high performance cars but when your talking about Diesels with Turbos, you need to use fully synthetic to minimise the carbon build up.

The Focus 1.6 and Fiesta 1.6 (as well as the BMW Mini 1.6 and Kia Ceed 1.6 and a few more cars I can't think of) all share the same Peugeot HDI engine. Ford have totally rebuilt it and made it much better although one of the main problems (Gunk in the oil blocking the turbo oil feeder pipe) still remains unless the right oil is used.

Even "some" genuine ford dealers were using the wrong oil until the Ford data sheet was updated about 2 years ago.

I had a 55 plate 1.6TDCI Fiesta until recently... I had it for 5 years right from 11k on the clock up until I sold it with 82k and never had any problems with it except ware and tare (new brake disks, pads, handbrake tightening and tires.)

I always made sure I used fully synthetic oil and had the oil and filter changed every 5000k


What to do with your car.... Hmmm this is a tricky one depending how badly the engine is gunked up.

If you could get a mechanic to remove the oil sump and visually inspect the amount of gunk built up inside it would give you a better idea on what to do.

If it's salvageable, you will need to have an upgraded oil feeder pipe to the turbo but 1st, get the engine oil professionally flushed out at least 3 times gently running the car for 100 miles between flushes.
then, get a high performance oil filter. I recommend K&N (also upgrade your air filter to K&N as they allow the car to breathe more freely.)
On the final flush, have the garage use a very high quality fully synthetic oil (brands are not important although do not use Castrol Magnatec as it actually has a negative impact on the pistons.)

I would also get the Clutch system looked at. (I know this may sound odd but if the flywheel is on it's way out, it will send sooty deposits into the engine which clog the EGR Valve, cam shaft and crank shaft sensors and everything inbetween)
Your injectors may have been replaced in error as if either the cam or crank shaft sensor is faulty or clogged, it will have similar symptoms as a faulty injector.

If it IS the injectors. you may need to replace your fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel line as the fuel tank may be rusty and iron filings are building up blocking the injectors.

I hope that helps.

[kibbster]

Ford diesel = bad idea.
I avoided the Mondeo diesel for the well known reliability issues.

I've got the Mk3 V6 petrol Mondy and nothing has gone wrong apart from a flat battery from sitting there in the cold with all all the electrics on and engine off for twenty minutes on the original 12 year old battery lol

The car is unbreakable no matter how I cane it!
*touch wood*

[kibbster]

About the Pug diesel engines...
The old man has a 406 HDi that's on 250k and still going

[jakethevape]

The injectors are leaking from the seals inside.

Basically it is only held down by a single clamp which is then bolted down. If you pull the injectors out the only "seal" is a copper washer (O ring) nothing else. But as diesels have a STUPID amount of PSI it escapes without much difficulty. Injector 1 was replaced only a few months back, n02 is leaking (bubbling around the edges) no3 is Fine and no4 has started to leak.

I only paid £2000 for the car @ 110k miles and knew it had a couple of issues, and the guy who had it before me didnt look like the kind to have taken care of it....
I do change the oil regulary, not sure on the type of the top of my head but its what we use in all of the 2ltr Turbo diesels @ work like the golfs etc..

I do like to put my foot down now and again but I keep it within reason and allow the turbo to do the work. Not sure if being heavy footed could cause the injectors to become loose and thus cause it to start leaking?....

As I said, I am a bike man not really into cars. But due to long LONG drives up and down the motorways a diesel made sense at the time.

[ChillerVapes]

My God! I thought they solved the injector seal problem with the 1.4tdci fiesta mk6!
(the 1.6 didn't suffer from the problem)
hmm... Perhaps see if ford did a recall on the seals, you might need them upgrading to a better version. I'm sure they recalled the 1.4 tdci fiesta iirc.

What about the clutch? Is it needing to be replaced or new? If its new, it might need all the old flywheel dust cleaning out.

I strongly recommend you look in detail at the oil you're putting in too, it could end up with your turbo going bang if its the wrong stuff.

Also, don't worry about putting you're foot down, they can take it believe me and tbh, it's actually good for the engine because its running faster and hotter which stops carbon deposits building up. If it was drove slowly or on short journeys or both by its previous owners, it will need someone to physically open the engine up and clear them out as after a while, they go solid as a rock.

If I was you I would get the engine oil flushed 2 or 3 times and then use a high quality fully synthetic oil replacing the oil filter with a performance one (k&n)
get the internals of the engine cleaned.
if you can get upgraded injector seals, get them fitted.
Put a performance air filter in (k&n) (not the mushroom head kits, just one which fits in the standard air filter box)
give it a nice clean with every bit of meguires nxt tech products you can find (oh and meguires hot wheels for the tyres) and plenty of big microfibre cloths.

Once you have done that, you will have a car what looks like new and hopefully runs like new too.

[farzooks]

Feb 5, 2013 18:14:42 GMT ChillerVapes said:

I always made sure I used fully synthetic oil and had the oil and filter changed every 5000k

That there - that's the single most important thing you can do to any engine, of any age or design.
Ignore the factory oil-change light, that are often set to come on at 14K miles or more. I always change my car /van oils at 5 or 6K and my bike oils at 2 or 3K.
To date, I've put hundreds of thousands of miles on my bikes and the only mechanical failure had been caused by overheating one stinking hot day in London traffic and the rings lost their tension - on stripdown, the bores, pistons, everything were perfect - on an engine that had done 180-odd Kmiles.
My four-wheelers are the same - in the past I put very high mileages up and changed the oil religiously. It doesn't even have to be an expensive oil, just decent and changed often.

[kibbster]

Yup my oil generally gets changed every service (3k)
*remembers he didn't get the car serviced this year* lol