Ithaka Tips, Tricks and Q&A

[thinwhiteduck]

Lovely stuff - thanks bennyboy.

I will definitely skip to the nitty gritty at some point but I'd say my attention span will be reduced to a matter of seconds when I open the package tonight

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Update: it's a fog machine

[blakey]

In stock for a little while here www.e-smokeguru.gr/en/ithaka-en.html

[baconandeggs]

Apr 11, 2013 18:41:30 GMT blakey said:

In stock for a little while here www.e-smokeguru.gr/en/ithaka-en.html

Ive seen 4th hand Oddy v2's sell for that, get in whilst you can.

[maccafan]

Been reading up on this atty..How many O rings has this thing got?

Something that might be of interest to owners is that the air control can be used with the Odysseus with what looks like a simple hack..I am sure most of you are already aware..

www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/404065-how-use-ithaka-air-control-base-native-odysseus.html

[blakey]

6 o-rings mate, one between each tank section
The ody can be used in the 510 adapter using a small 510 insulator and pin.
Works a treat.

[scs]

My Ithaka is on the way, and my first step in rebuildables. Jumped in at the deep end

Just looking at wires.co.uk and noticed they have a few different types. What size/resistance wire would you guys recommend for the Ithaka for dual coil?

Cheers.

[blakey]

Get some .2 kanthal or ni-chrome, that'll give you a good coverage of the wick inside the ceramic.
If you'e going for dual coil then you need a mechanical mod and I'd start with two 2ohm coils for an over all resistance of 1ohm. will be quite intense on a freshly charged battery but is a good starting point

[scs]

Apr 14, 2013 11:04:06 GMT blakey said:

Get some .2 kanthal or ni-chrome, that'll give you a good coverage of the wick inside the ceramic.
If you'e going for dual coil then you need a mechanical mod and I'd start with two 2ohm coils for an over all resistance of 1ohm. will be quite intense on a freshly charged battery but is a good starting point

Many thanks blakey.  Was getting lost in the many wire variations people use.

Purchased some 0.20mm kanthal A1 5m from eBay.  £5 delivered.  The A kanthal is much cheaper but it seems A1 is more stable at higher temperatures.

I'm going with dual coil as recommended and will be using the Ithaka on my Provari and Vamo.  Can't wait for it to arrive so I can pop my re-coil cherry

[blakey]

Quite honestly mate, any grade kanthal as well as ni-chrome is going to be fine, in reality there isn't much difference between them especially when using silica wick.
I've been using kanthal D for years and can hardly notice anything between that or the kanthal A1.
On genesis atties the kanthal A1 will heat very slightly quicker than the rest and starts to make more sense.
Dual coils in an Itheka with a mechanical mod is quite an experience I have to say but TBH, I've gone back to single coil and electronic mod.

Try this, two lengths of 3mm wick and two small lengths of 1.5mm wick, one on top and one underneath as buffers, wrap a 1.8-2ohm coil around the whole lot and you'll find that the wick takes up quite a lot of space inside the ceramic. It performs almost but not quite as good as a dual coil, and you have much more choice over the type of mod you use it on.

[baconandeggs]

Ive been using dual coil 3mm singles all week and just kept refilling with loads of juices thick and thin and no probs at all apart from dual coil eats batteries. I measured the ohms at 1.7 but after trimming the Provari gave me a reading of 1.4. this I could vape to 4.7V on the Prov before it gave me an error but to be honest 4.5v is what i settled on so not a problem for me.
Today I have done a single coil double wick and Prov is at 1.9 ohm. I am finding that i have more variations in voltage and throat hit / vapour is exactly the same but i have not had to change the battery.

[scs]

Just taken delivery of my new Ithaka. What a toy!

Since it's my first time out with a rebuildable I decided to just follow Imeo's video on youtube for a single coil setup, mainly because I had no idea what all the parts did lol.

I started unscrewing a few things (like you do) and ended up with a stainless steel mess on my table ???

Anyway, after following his video to the T, I got myself a proper smoke machine. I was a little worried one of my coils was touching another but it actually looked neater than Imeo's so carried out the first test (without filling the tank). Dead. Then I remembered the centre positive pin needed to be screwed down a little to make contact. Vapour! Yeahhh.  The excitement then grew to anguish as the Provari gave an E1 error after 1 second.  A quick look at the manual suggested I had to switch voltage down so set it to 3.3v and a cloud of vape bellowed in to the air.

Screwed it all together, filled the tank with Grizwalds arctic lemon and p*ssed myself with excitement from the throat hit.

/goes to change pants.

[scs]

A few questions:

What voltage would you say the Provari should be set to for the 4 wrap coil with the supplied wick/wire (as per Imeo's video on youtube)? Also, the supplied wire had a smaller gauge welded in the middle.  Is this non-resistance and the best method of making the next coil?

How do you guys use the juice limiter? Shouldn't it always be fully open for best results?

How do you guys use the air limiter at the base? Are these functions just preference? What do you normally set yours to?

Lastly, how the heck do you fit 4 wicks in to such a small space (as per the above method recommended by blakey)? Any pics?


That should start the Q&A for the thread quite nicely, for now

[blakey]

I'm at work mate so I can't be of much use, no chance of a pic tutorial from me till next week
The thinner strand of wire is the resistance wire. The wires either side are the no-resistance wires.
The basic feeding I leave and will forever leave closed off.
The air control ring at the bottom adjusts the draw so its very useful.
I never use the ready wires as I prefer to make my own to my spec but if memory serves they come in at 1.7ish ohms so I would set the provari to 3.8v as a starting point.

[scs]

EDIT: I figured it out.

[scs]

Apr 18, 2013 14:38:25 GMT blakey said:

I'm at work mate so I can't be of much use, no chance of a pic tutorial from me till next week
The thinner strand of wire is the resistance wire. The wires either side are the no-resistance wires.
The basic feeding I leave and will forever leave closed off.
The air control ring at the bottom adjusts the draw so its very useful.
I never use the ready wires as I prefer to make my own to my spec but if memory serves they come in at 1.7ish ohms so I would set the provari to 3.8v as a starting point.

Thanks for the info blakey. That makes sense.

I had my juice feeder visually set to half and it was great.  I just closed it off and it seems better somehow (although I can't explain how/why).  I assumed more juice the better, but not too much, thus the half setting I was using.