Ithaka Tips, Tricks and Q&A

[baconandeggs]

Apr 18, 2013 14:38:25 GMT blakey said:

I'm at work mate so I can't be of much use, no chance of a pic tutorial from me till next week
The thinner strand of wire is the resistance wire. The wires either side are the no-resistance wires.
The basic feeding I leave and will forever leave closed off.
The air control ring at the bottom adjusts the draw so its very useful.
I never use the ready wires as I prefer to make my own to my spec but if memory serves they come in at 1.7ish ohms so I would set the provari to 3.8v as a starting point.

I initially setup with the basic feed open (holes in both channels) and i kept it like that. I have never had a problem with flooding etc.
My juice control is also at 1 1/2 turns, left like that and again not experienced any flooding and i have put though it very thin and thick (custard) juices to try them.

[thinwhiteduck]

Apr 18, 2013 14:42:36 GMT scs said:

Once you recoil the Ithaka and screw the first section on the ceramic, make sure you don't screw it flush or past the rubber o-ring. I screwed to more or less flush as per Imeo's video and I lost 2ml of juice straight in to the Provari. After cleaning it I left 2 or 3mm gap before the o-ring and it sealed nicely.

Cheers.

Was it that you weren't then screwing the rebuildable part (containing the ceramic) down into the first section (the basic feed control) as this would cause a leak. From 'Ithaka the movie' as I now call it the sequence should be:
1) screw the basic feed down to the o-ring
2) screw the basic feed into the base
3) screw the rebuildbale part further into the basic feed until you can't screw it further and the basic feed hole is either over the wick / blocking the wick as you prefer.

[baconandeggs]

Apr 18, 2013 12:19:25 GMT scs said:

A few questions:

What voltage would you say the Provari should be set to for the 4 wrap coil with the supplied wick/wire (as per Imeo's video on youtube)? Also, the supplied wire had a smaller gauge welded in the middle.  Is this non-resistance and the best method of making the next coil?
***I think i measured the coil at 2 ohm (not used it because i lost it out the van window) made my own at 1.9 - 2 ohm and tend to use 4.5v on the prov but it's all down to the user's tastes, throat hit etc***

How do you guys use the juice limiter? Shouldn't it always be fully open for best results?
*** Mine has been left with both channels open, never tried it closed***

How do you guys use the air limiter at the base? Are these functions just preference? What do you normally set yours to?
***Just preference to tighten the draw***

Lastly, how the heck do you fit 4 wicks in to such a small space (as per the above method recommended by blakey)? Any pics?
***Blakey will supply pics when he leaves the clippy's alone***


That should start the Q&A for the thread quite nicely, for now

[blakey]

Apr 18, 2013 17:17:59 GMT baconandeggs said:

Apr 18, 2013 14:38:25 GMT blakey said:

I'm at work mate so I can't be of much use, no chance of a pic tutorial from me till next week
The thinner strand of wire is the resistance wire. The wires either side are the no-resistance wires.
The basic feeding I leave and will forever leave closed off.
The air control ring at the bottom adjusts the draw so its very useful.
I never use the ready wires as I prefer to make my own to my spec but if memory serves they come in at 1.7ish ohms so I would set the provari to 3.8v as a starting point.

I initially setup with the basic feed open (holes in both channels) and i kept it like that. I have never had a problem with flooding etc.
My juice control is also at 1 1/2 turns, left like that and again not experienced any flooding and i have put though it very thin and thick (custard) juices to try them.

Its when you refill that you can have issues with leaving it open, as you screw down the top cap you create pressure inside that forces juice through the basic feeding holes onto wicks that are already saturated.
If you're careful then its no issue but for me there really is no need for basic feeding.

[baconandeggs]

Gotta,

[baconandeggs]

Apr 18, 2013 12:19:25 GMT scs said:

Lastly, how the heck do you fit 4 wicks in to such a small space (as per the above method recommended by blakey)? Any pics?

4 wicks that all

[scs]

Apr 18, 2013 17:19:29 GMT thinwhiteduck said:

Apr 18, 2013 14:42:36 GMT scs said:

Once you recoil the Ithaka and screw the first section on the ceramic, make sure you don't screw it flush or past the rubber o-ring. I screwed to more or less flush as per Imeo's video and I lost 2ml of juice straight in to the Provari. After cleaning it I left 2 or 3mm gap before the o-ring and it sealed nicely.

Cheers.

Was it that you weren't then screwing the rebuildable part (containing the ceramic) down into the first section (the basic feed control) as this would cause a leak. From 'Ithaka the movie' as I now call it the sequence should be:
1) screw the basic feed down to the o-ring
2) screw the basic feed into the base
3) screw the rebuildbale part further into the basic feed until you can't screw it further and the basic feed hole is either over the wick / blocking the wick as you prefer.

Not sure what I did wrong the first time thinwhiteduck.  I just rebuilt it and it seems you are right, if you follow the instruction it should tighten up regardles. Will edit that post as it doesn't make sense now.

Cheers.

[scs]

Well after I flooded the chamber and got juice in the battery mod, I decided to strip the Ithaka and give it a right good clean because I was still getting a little juice coming from the centre pin. I also wanted to reduce the darn awful metallic taste, so now it's clean clean.

Re-assembled and put a little juice in. Checked the battery connection and would you believe it.....more juice in there. Cleaned the connections last night and used it again. 15 minutes later....juice in the connection ???

And again this morning. I got a leak!

I have screwed the ceramic to the base tight, there is no way (without pliers) that the rubber o-ring will seal tighter. Anybody have any ideas as I'm scratching my head as to how that o-ring is leaking?

I have one wrap of wire around that post, as per Imeo's video. How many times has everyone else wrapped around that post and has it caused any leaks?

[blakey]

It's more likely that the juice is leaking via the ceramic and center tube mate, Try setting it up with basic feeding closed off and when you first fill leave the juice control closed for a few puffs and let the pressure inside the tank equalise.

[scs]

Apr 20, 2013 8:43:51 GMT blakey said:

It's more likely that the juice is leaking via the ceramic and center tube mate, Try setting it up with basic feeding closed off and when you first fill leave the juice control closed for a few puffs and let the pressure inside the tank equalise.

Hi blakey,

Since I realised I could quite easily flood the chamber I have gone with not opening the juice feed at all. I also wanted to rule that out of the leak equation so the last 2 small refills have been carried out with it completely shut.

Still leaking I'm afraid

[blakey]

Apr 20, 2013 11:59:51 GMT scs said:

Apr 20, 2013 8:43:51 GMT blakey said:

It's more likely that the juice is leaking via the ceramic and center tube mate, Try setting it up with basic feeding closed off and when you first fill leave the juice control closed for a few puffs and let the pressure inside the tank equalise.

Hi blakey,

Since I realised I could quite easily flood the chamber I have gone with not opening the juice feed at all. I also wanted to rule that out of the leak equation so the last 2 small refills have been carried out with it completely shut.

Still leaking I'm afraid

Do you have enough wick in the channels?
3mm thickness for each channel is required.

Also the basic feeding from the section that the rebuildable part goes into, are the holes in the closed position? if not then there's nothing to stop the juice getting to the wicks so if you start to get flooding you wont be able to stop it.
Almost certainly the juice is flooding through the ceramic center tube because the wick at the coil is being overwhelmed.

[scs]

Apr 20, 2013 12:19:23 GMT blakey said:

Apr 20, 2013 11:59:51 GMT scs said:

Hi blakey,

Since I realised I could quite easily flood the chamber I have gone with not opening the juice feed at all. I also wanted to rule that out of the leak equation so the last 2 small refills have been carried out with it completely shut.

Still leaking I'm afraid

Do you have enough wick in the channels?
3mm thickness for each channel is required.

Also the basic feeding from the section that the rebuildable part goes into, are the holes in the closed position? if not then there's nothing to stop the juice getting to the wicks so if you start to get flooding you wont be able to stop it.
Almost certainly the juice is flooding through the ceramic center tube because the wick at the coil is being overwhelmed.

I'm using the wick that came with the Ithaka, looks thicker than my 2mm stuff. It's trimmed directly to the bottom of the ceramic as per instructions (as that can cause it to leak too).

Not exactly sure what you mean by the holes but I think you mean the bit with two holes in that you screw on to the top of the ceramic.  Imea suggets these are are aligned away from the wick channels, and mine are bang centre of the thread.  Is that closed position or am I in the wrong area lol.

[scs]

Well I'm a lot more advanced with my knowledge of the Ithaka now.

I have switched to basic feeding (with holes aligned to one wick) and closed juice control for the most part. Seems to be working better and far less dry hits. As soon as I find it's getting dry, just a quick turn of the juice control for a few hits does the trick.

I'm still getting a leak through the centre post so I will align the holes in the bottom of the ceramic on my next rebuild so as to use the secondary tank on the Ithaka. As far I can tell, if I do this, it's "impossible" for it to leak. I will soon find out.

Whilst I wasn't sure what the heck I was doing these last few days, I have picked up a few tips:

FLOODING

Trim the wicks so they don't go past the o-ring
Switch to basic feeding. Either half wick, one wick or both wicks.
Open up the secondary tank (align the holes at the bottom of the ceramic).
When filling, never screw both tops on together. They should be screwed on seperately.
When filling, make sure juice control is completely shut off.

GURGLING

Shake the Ithaka forward (like you were whipping something with it) holding the battery/mod end. Put a tissue over the mouth piece and you will see the excess juice.
Suck hard 5 or 6 times on the mouth piece without pressing the button.
Blow hard 5 or 6 times in to the mouth piece without pressing the button.

HEAT CONTROL

You can extend the mouth piece off the ceramic thread to make further distance from coil to mouth.


Hope this helps anyone who hasn't spent all weekend looking at video's and reading countless Ithika threads

[baconandeggs]

Anyone know if cov and Guru are doing the preorders on mouth pieces etc cause i can't find it.

[Moggy]

May 26, 2013 11:36:19 GMT baconandeggs said:

Anyone know if cov and Guru are doing the preorders on mouth pieces etc cause i can't find it.

The extendable ? Imeo said that would be done after the current pre-orders are completed. Tempted to email him to add a own DripTips one to my order.

EDIT : www.e-smokeguru.gr/en/apparel/preorders-en/