Dual Coil Tank, or modding the mod.

[vereybowring]

After being asked I tried to get a dual coil cartomiser (I hate saying it since its a bugger of a tongue twister - you'll see what I mean) to fit in one of my tanks.

Good news, it can and it works - bad news you need some tools in the form of a reamer or cone grinder or if you are patient a round file. You also need something to put a hole in the DCC be it a drill or bradawl.
I done did a diddy viddy.



So to summarise the hasty video, using a file, reamer or whatever you have widen the holes on the bottom of the tank and in the rubber top of the tank so they fit the DCC snuggly - if the fit is too loose you risk a leak.
At the connector end of the DCC put a hole in the side not more than 1mm diameter to let liquid flow from the tank to the DCC filler.
Slot the DCC into the bottom of the tank up to about the last 2-3mm of its main body are out, run a little glue round it like I do with the clearos then push all the way in so only the battery connector is sticking out.
You leave to dry for a bit.
Fill the DCC (with a syringe is quicker usually, then fill the tank.
Then you can put the rubber seal on top sealing the gap between the DCC and the tank.
You can then just pop a drip tip on a vape away.

[roachieuk (aka eciggery2011)]

Thank you very much verey very informative something which is a great help.

TY very much indeed.

And thank you for the name of the tool needed as ive been searching for a god week for the cone grinder but been putting in cone drill bit lol.

And its a dcctm lol

Duel coil clearo tank mod hehe

[roachieuk (aka eciggery2011)]

Well i made one lol i used a stanley knife and a lil screw lol as i dont have the tools you have but still done the trick and ty very much for the vid tut mate much appreciated.

[vereybowring]

No problem, just remember to take the seal off the top when filling or you'll get a lap of juice.

Having now tried the DCC clear version I can see why some people like them so much thay produce loads of TH and vapour.
Saying that I still prefer the flavour I get from clearos in a tank, much better for my more delicate flavours.
I think I'll leave the DCC's for the stronger tobacco flavours where the extra hit is not overpowering the flavours.
My favourite vape is still 2.8 Ohm clearo (tanked) with a lovely fruit flavour like watermelon or strawberry & vanilla - although the Perpetu leche is a good indulgence on that too.
The DCC just seems to kill lots of the flavour for me, although it is also good for my capuccino mix.

[Perpetua]

Thank you for the video Verey.

[spikeychops]

Mind if i pick your brains Verey?

I've made a tank similar to your one (you inspired me), but i have a problem..

I have a cut down syringe tube, open both ends, holding a DC carto with a tight fitting rubber washer at each end, sealing the tube and the carto.

Problem is though, i leave the top rubber off to fill the carto and tank but juice starts leaking from the bottom of the straight away, and continues to fall out of the bottom air hole, until it is almost gone...left with a couple of mm in the tank..

I'm thinking that i messed up drilling the hole in the carto tube..it turned out a lot bigger than i intended, and it's probably about 2-3mm in size, well roughly anyway. I know it's supposed to be 1mm (max?) but i had a problem drilling it and it ended up too big.

Here's some photo's so you can see what i mean.



You can see the hole.



DC Carto tube protrudes about 1mm from the syringe tank..is this OK?



Rubbers are flush with the edges of the tank.

Would the hole in the DC carto being too big account for all (most) of the juice falling from the bottom? I only have 1 DC carto left, and didn't want to ruin it trying again.

Mind you, the one i used was nearly dead, but the TH and flavour are really good in this tank...so it's not all bad.

Cheers for any help you or anyone in the know can offer.

[vereybowring]

Right, I've thought about this with my own experiment and also for refilling the tank it's annoying to take it apart each time.
To fill it without it leaking all over the place, assemble it completely including both ends.
To fill turn it upside down so the hole in the carto is at the top.
Insert a needle (with filled syringe) down the side of the rubber at the opposite end from the carto hole.
Start filling - it will gurgle a bit as the air forces its way out and you might get a little juice coming out of the DCC.
When you have almost reached the carto hole with the liquid level, slant the tank with the holeon top so it's at an angle - keep filling till the liquid reaches the hole.
You now should have a filled tank - easy.
The bigger the hole you make in the carto the worse the leakage can be when trying to fill - it's all a learning experience though.

[spikeychops]

Cheers Verey.

I've updated the post above with a few images of what i've done.

I'll try filling again, by sneaking the needle between the syringe wall and the rubber seal..i'll have plenty of kitchen towels at the ready!!

Thanks again.

[spikeychops]

Well, looks like it's back to the old drawing board for me.

Tried filling the way you suggest, and it filled fine...turned it upside down, flipped it the other way and no leaking...soon as i attached it to the batt and took a drag on the mouth tip, it all flooded out again (apart from a tiny bit in the bottom, about 1mm height).

It has me stumped...but then fluid dynamics / pressure and fluids aren't my thing.

Something's gone wrong somewhere. Maybe if i tried blocking the hole in the carto up with a bit of silicon?

Thanks for your help Verey, i appreciate it.

[vereybowring]

Jul 5, 2011 12:52:23 GMT spikeychops said:

Well, looks like it's back to the old drawing board for me.

Tried filling the way you suggest, and it filled fine...turned it upside down, flipped it the other way and no leaking...soon as i attached it to the batt and took a drag on the mouth tip, it all flooded out again (apart from a tiny bit in the bottom, about 1mm height).

It has me stumped...but then fluid dynamics / pressure and fluids aren't my thing.

Something's gone wrong somewhere. Maybe if i tried blocking the hole in the carto up with a bit of silicon?

Thanks for your help Verey, i appreciate it.

Well it was worth a try but the hole in the DCC was just too big.
The hole size is vital since it has to be big enough to let the juice through but only when it gets draw from the filler in the carto.
This is why 1mm is about the biggest you want it to be - otherwise the juice is free to flow out the hole.
To repair the problem, you can diaasemble the tank. Clean off round the hole thoroughly then put a piece of duct tape over it, then punch a small hole in the duct tape - an easy enough fix.
In futire if you use a drill to get a hole it needs to be a model drill size as the smallest regular drill bits go to is 1mm which is right on the edge of size limit.
If you don't have a model drill and bits then a bradawl is a good solution.

[spikeychops]

Yeah, i agree it's always worth a try.

Good idea with the duct tape thing...used some metal tape i had, but no joy, still leaks out of the central air hole/tube.

Can't think what's wrong. The hole is now quite small...perhaps not small enough i guess.

I'll add a bit more tape, make the hole barely a pinprick and try again.
I remember seeing a tiny drill bit in the shed...i'll hunt for it next time i do this..or buy some of yours instead! ;-)

Cheers anyway Verey.

[clockworks]

I wonder if you damaged the filler inside the carto? The wadding should prevent leakage, but only if it's completely filling the space between the metal tube and the central air tube/coil. If you snagged it with the drill, it'll leak.
It's also possible that the swarf (metal chips from drilling) is bridging the gap inside, making it leak. Best to cut your losses and start again with a fresh carto.

I use cartos inside my own Arry-style tanks, and never have any leakage. This style of tank should work just as well, although it's harder to fill. I struggled to make the holes using a small nail - the nail just bent!
What I do now is punch the tube with an automatic centre punch (spring-loaded device that doesn't need hitting with a hammer), then drill the hole with a 1mm tungsten carbide drill bit. TC bits make light work of the stainless tube, but they are very brittle. Not a problem as the broken stub drills just as well, and won't go too far into the wadding.

[spikeychops]

Hi Clockworks,

You're right.

A small bit of the filler wadding did come out of the hole, although only a few 'hairs' worth, but it still may have disturbed it enough for it do what it's doing.

I've only got one DC carto left, not brave enough to risk it until it starts to dies on me, then i'll try again. As it stands now, i've a tank that doesn't hold liquid, but strangely it has given the almost dead DC carto inside a new lease of life, so it's not for nought.

Thanks for your help Clockworks.

[johnnyjames]

Well I few observations.

It's basically a pressure thing. Obviously the hole (most folks in the States use demeled slits) has to be sized right. I may have to try a hole, but 1mm sure sounds small. Is that just one hole?

Back to the pressure thing, With the CE2s when in the tank they are never really perfectly sealed/air tight like with the DCs. Once you fill and start pressing in the grommet/washer the pressure will have to push the liquid through your hole. It has to, whether the hole is big or small. With a fresh empty carto, the first time, don't pre-fill the carto. Install it, fill your tank and just drip a few drops on top. Then slowly push your rubber in place and as soon as you can hold it horizontal then let it sit awhile.

Probably the best bet is simply a port, that can also be used for filling. There are a few ways to do this.



The yellow dot is where a small hole can be placed, What this one will do is allow air to escape until the very end till your rubber finally covers it. The red dot is good but will need a removable plug of some sort.

I'm sure you can think of many ways to make a little plug.

The red line is where I usually cut my slit.

[spikeychops]

Thanks for that johnnyjames.

I've kinda given up on this one, feeling it would be better to either just buy a carto tank, or follow a design using a leur syringe bottom piece to hold the carto, cut to fit into the bottom half of an Arry tank.

Thanks very much for your help though mate.

Andy.