Sophia issues

[Greg]

So I decided to split my two 30ml 40/60 RA mixes into four 15ml quantities in four half full 30ml bottles then calculated the quantities required to make each of the four bottles 30ml of 60/40 RA.
Tank was quite low so I just topped up with the new mix and it's a lot more fluid in the tank.
I can even fill the sat ang pepper now with forcing the liquid out of the second air hole

Super-Shiny thanks for all your help, I think I'm slowly learning what to do and what not to do with it, no burnt taste today and I'm hoping the thinner liquid will prevent further occurrences.
On another note it looks absolutely stunning

So what have I learnt so far

Don't put too thick liquid in as it's likely to not wick quick enough even with the Sophia juice control really open.
Make your own coils.
When filling the S&P close the juice control !
Be patient after filling and opening the Sophia juice control, ensure all the air escapes first before using to prevent leaks.

And my top tip if you get stuck - ask Super-Shiny

[Super-Shiny]

Great news Greg it is a learning curve with it but once it is sussed it is a cracking bit of kit

p.s If anyone else has problems with the Sophia just PM Greg his your man

[Greg]

Dec 26, 2013 20:08:57 GMT Super-Shiny said:

Great news Greg it is a learning curve with it but once it is sussed it is a cracking bit of kit

p.s If anyone else has problems with the Sophia just PM Greg his your man

[Greg]

Dec 26, 2013 20:08:57 GMT Super-Shiny said:

Great news Greg it is a learning curve with it but once it is sussed it is a cracking bit of kit

p.s If anyone else has problems with the Sophia just PM Greg his your man

Peeps don't PM me just yet, major disaster last night. Well a minor hiccup really 

So last night my coil went open circuit again, took it apart and whipped the coil out, stretched it out and still intact
Then I noticed a small chip out of the bottom of the ceramic cup, anyway recoiled the ceramic and refitted and when trying to refit the ceramic positive connector split in half. I've found fitting the ceramic back in quite tight each time so wondering if the ceramic may have been a bit dodgy, my pre made wires are too thick or most likely I'm poking a bit too much of the positive wire back up the whole and need to keep it shorter to offer less mechanical resistance to pushing home.
I'm now back on the pro tanks until new ceramics arrive, thankfully HOM's have them in stock.

Super-Shiny its appears I'm still on the slope of the learning curve 

[Super-Shiny]

Greg i think you get the same pre-made wires as me, these ones: 2.2ohm pack so i don't think it is the thickness of the wire.

Could be a slighty to big ceramic or could also be that you are pushing it down too hard....could be many things.

When i push mine down i hold the top of the ceramic with my index finger and hold the bottom of the base with my thumb and use both with the same amount of pressure to push the ceramic into place.

As long as the wires look like this:









And it is pushed down this far as per following picture you should not have a problem:

[Greg]

Super-Shiny I'm really not sure but the bare ceramic without any wire slipped onto the base really easily but I guess margins are tight, yes I got the same wires from grey haze. I just found it really tight to push home, maybe that's the way. I made the positive wire a little longer in my later attempts but were only talking 1 or 2 mill longer. I'm at a loss really why I keep getting open circuit coils, only been using a few dats as you know and although the ceramic may be loses if I progressively damaged it it doesn't explain why it was fine all Xmas day then open circuit in the evening. On my final arrempt I threw the base in the uc bath juice incase the positive pin was crudded up in some way due to earlier flooding issues but not had a chance to retry due to ceramic failure, the good news is house of mods dispa tched my replacement ceramics this morning.
Although its hard to push down the ceramic it does kinda naturally bottom out but maybe I'm just using a little to much force as it bottoms out, I'll try your method.
When you install yours are you bottoming out the ceramic on the base or does it stop short if that makes sense, could you advise the measurement gap left between the bottom of the larger part of the ceramic and the top of the metal base, ie the length of still visible small diameter ceramic tube in the wick slot ?
The other thing I noticed is that with the ceramic fully home the negative wire moved easily from side to side, it's almost as if the negative part of the ceramic not tight enough and the positive is too tight, hopefully the new ceramics will sort my issues. Damn thing broke just as I was getting to grips with it too.

[Super-Shiny]

Greg i get 2.5mm left showing of the ceramic at the top once fully inserted, i wouldn't worry about the negative wire moving about a bit, mine does too.

[Greg]

Okey dokey I'll give it a whirl soon as I can. Yes thinking about the neg wire I guess it will get a good contact at the bottom where it transitions from the smaller to bigger diameter of the ceramic.

How often do you need to change your coils and do they ever go open circuit or just lose performance with gunkiness

[Super-Shiny]

Dec 27, 2013 15:34:59 GMT Greg said:

How often do you need to change your coils and do they ever go open circuit or just lose performance with gunkiness

I wash and dry burn it after about 3 tank fulls and change the coil completely after about 15 tank full's

The ohms will increase from 2.2ohms too around 2.4ohms after about 3 tank fulls so i just wash and dry burn the coil to bring it back down to 2.2ohms

[Greg]

Dec 27, 2013 15:38:50 GMT Super-Shiny said:

Dec 27, 2013 15:34:59 GMT Greg said:

How often do you need to change your coils and do they ever go open circuit or just lose performance with gunkiness

I wash and dry burn it after about 3 tank fulls and change the coil completely after about 15 tank full's

The ohms will increase from 2.2ohms too around 2.4ohms after about 3 tank fulls so i just wash and dry burn the coil to bring it back down to 2.2ohms

I'll be more than happy if I get there 

[Greg]

Super-Shiny Received new ceramics today. Rather than recoil I thought I'll just see if I can get it working with supplied coils to start.
First thing I noticed was that the new ceramic slotted home significantly easier than the original.
Second thing I found was both my mvp2 and little black box showed the new coil to be open circuit, out with the multimeter and 2.2 so all good. Quite strange as I measured the Sophia coil on the black box originally just fine. Filled her up and on the nemmy and nothing. Off with the nemmy top cap and what I found was with the thumb screw connector just in contact, 2.2 ohms, tighten a little further and the resistance plummets to almost zero. So I suspect that previously I've been getting short circuit rather than open, good job I'm using a kick. Anyway I've played with it, took it apart and if I get it to work just changing the battery and nipping up the bottom can make it stop working.
Not really sure what else to try now, can only think the original tight ceramic has moved the positive pin externally somehow.
Fed up now so back to the protank and a distress with Capella lemon meringue pie.

[Super-Shiny]

Greg i am wrecking my brains out trying to figure out what is wrong but cannot, so hard to tell what is wrong without the thing in my hand, it's such a solid device i cannot see how things would move/adjust out of place.

And bit confused with thumb screw? what thumb screw?.

Also have you tried it on a different mod?

[Greg]

Dec 28, 2013 19:03:12 GMT Super-Shiny said:

Greg i am wrecking my brains out trying to figure out what is wrong but cannot, so hard to tell what is wrong without the thing in my hand, it's such a solid device i cannot see how things would move/adjust out of place.

And bit confused with thumb screw? what thumb screw?.

Also have you tried it on a different mod?

Super-Shiny you and me both mate. Thumb screw probably a bad term, I mean the top positive connector screw on the nemmy. 
The only other mod I have is mvp2 and the Sophia 510 is not long enough to make contact. I did try iton a minuscule mirage ego battery and it fired consistently although little oomph.

I have two protank 2s and they both work flawlessly on the nemmy.

[Super-Shiny]

Greg maybe it's not the Sophia but a lack of connection, un-screw the 510 pin in the nemesis all the way down and screw the SnP/Sophia tank all the way down and then screw the 510 pin on the nemesis tight so it connects with the SnP/Sophia tank.

Then adjust the nemesis firing button screw until all is connecting properly, there should be no battery rattle in the nemesis if all is snug.

[Greg]

Dec 28, 2013 19:18:31 GMT Super-Shiny said:

Greg maybe it's not the Sophia but a lack of connection, un-screw the 510 pin in the nemesis all the way down and screw the SnP/Sophia tank all the way down and then screw the 510 pin on the nemesis tight so it connects with the SnP/Sophia tank.

Then adjust the nemesis firing button screw until all is connecting properly, there should be no battery rattle in the nemesis if all is snug.

Super-Shiny yes I've been doing that, I got to the point where I took the nemmy 510 pin out completely, screwed the Sophia down into the head then screwed in the nemmy 510 pin so it was just touching the Sophia. Checked with multimeter and 2.2 ohms, then nipped the 510 a fraction tighter and tested with multimeter and virtually a short circuit. The above checks with multimeter are very repeatable. So I set up so 510 is just touching, nip up the nemmy firing button and it either works or it doesn't. If it works and I nip the firing button a little more then nothing, I'm thinking this last action is causing the short again.it almost suggests the nemmy 510 pin is opening the Sophia positive pin slightly and shorting it against the outer negative body