How to solder

[Super-Shiny]

How much of this is correct i don't know but a good read:

www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/336870-how-solder-correctly-not-so-brief-lesson.html

WARNING: It's a long read

[meeee]

I worked in electronics for over 10 years and had a brief read through the article. A couple of points I would raise -

Flux does not act a cleaner it main purpose is to allow the solder to flow without oxidizing. When soldering both surfaces should always be free from oxidization and dirt before you start. 60/40 or 63/37 there is no real difference they both melt around the same temp. Personally I always use a multicore flux filled solder which is generally the standard in most electronics companies. If you use this type of solder there is no need to add additional flux. The only time you would add additional flux is if you were re-soldering a joint that had already been soldered. Also the 6 second rule quoted is far to long to keep the heat on a joint, the flux would have burn off way before 6 seconds have passed.

A few tools which are always handy when soldering apart from a soldering iron are - A solder Sucker, Desoldering Braid, flux pen (used when retouching joints) & a tin of tip tinner (Ideal for reconditioning a soldering iron tip) and finally a bulldog clip screwed to a piece of wood for holding items when soldering.

Also I tend to use rubber sleeving / hellerman oil rather than heat shrink sleeving as it allows the wire to ben more easily.


Meeee

[otter]

I agree with meeee 6 seconds is waaaay too long for the stuff that is being worked on by forum members- there is a risk of burning/overheating insulation/components Once you see the solder flowing across the joint remove the iron. Should take about 1 second of heat to make a joint.

[ronaldo]

ha ha if you read on a few posts after his he says the prc 2000 is his favourite soldering station with built in dremil type tool he says they are about 5000 dollars i worked in the industry for over 30 years and my company installed one in my own van when i worked for them but they went into liquidation 2 weeks ago and are refusing to speak to us about our wages if they wont speak to me about my wages i wont be able to speak to them about there soldering station and i know my soldering station cost over £7700.00

[ronaldo]

deleted repeat post 

[meeee]

I always liked the metcal solder stations, they are very good value for money. A bit pricey for the home user though.

[ronaldo]

lidl keep getting a half decent one in for about twenty quid with 2 rolls of solder and 2 tips with variable heat control i have used one in someones home to repair a tv set and was quite impressed

[bkkkpewsey]

I would add 3 items I personally find essential to meeee list.

• Tub of cold water to insert hand into after picking up the wrong end of soldering iron
• First Aid kit
• Fire Extinguisher

If you think thats bad you ought to see me welding list

[ronaldo]

Mar 3, 2014 22:46:17 GMT bkkkpewsey said:

I would add 3 items I personally find essential to meeee list.

• Tub of cold water to insert hand into after picking up the wrong end of soldering iron
• First Aid kit
• Fire Extinguisher

If you think thats bad you ought to see me welding list

if your that bad i would add safety goggles gas mask and welding gloves 

[DiscoDes]

I have a lovely Weller TCP solder Station that was *cough* aquired from a previous employer.

When I did my electronics Technician Apprenticeship we spent most of the first 2 weeks soldering up thousands of connections on old telephone relay switches that had loads of tabs that we had to attach a perfectly stripped then soldered 2" piece of wire to. If we got one wrong we'd have to do the whole thing again!

[ronaldo]

nothing wrong with weller irons i love them very reliable

[DiscoDes]

Mar 3, 2014 22:53:25 GMT ronaldo said:

nothing wrong with weller irons i love them very reliable

ronaldo

The Weller TCP (temperature controlled point) is great, it has magnetic tips that you can change dependant on what you're doing I have some very fine point ones for doing small electronic circuitry, also you can get different temperature points to tailor to the work you're doing.

And I agree a solder sucker is a must!

[a1laserboy]

don't use a damp anything to clean the tip, usually a flick will get off a bubble of solder if you end up with some there. If you really need to wipe, tear off a piece of cardboard and wipe it on the raggy edge - quick swipe on one side of tip, then quick swipe on the other side. Then you need to re apply solder to the tip to use it again. Using a damp thing kills the heat and can glaze the tip.

Get the iron as hot as possible, tin the parts to solder first, the quickest of touches is what you want. If you are too cool you will heat the components too much before you get the right temp to join. Always touch solder to tip first, then tip onto target, then apply solder, then remove iron and hold target steady. should all be done in one swift movement.

Use a thin pointy tipped end on your iron, never buy one from maplin! I use one of these - very good portable iron: www.jbctools.com/sl2020-temperature-controlled-product-686-category-8-menu-1.html


Been soldering for work for over 21 years. With practise and the right iron, you can solder upside down in the dark in the middle of a rave after 10 pints and a couple of illegal tablet things ……. not that i've done that of course………