ionian
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Post by ionian on Mar 4, 2014 17:00:44 GMT
Hello! catfish asked for some pictures showing how I set up my genesis. I'm not one to do things by halves, and I have no shame so will happily rip of Super-Shiny's guide style, so thought I'd write this quick set up with some pics. Huge thanks to Super-Shiny for teaching me to coil with his guides, and Riptripper for making a vid on this set up which I blatantly copied.
Step 1 - make your micrcoil (see Super-Shiny's guide for help). I'm using 0.28 kathnal, 10 wraps around a 2mm drill bit will give 2ohms. I use a kick so this is fine for me - unkicked mods will benefit from a lower resistance. Keep the coils nice and tight - it's tricky to adjust them when mounted. Step 2 - mount the coil making sure it is directly above the feeder hole. I use a toy screwdriver as my pokey device of choice, threaded through the hole to hold it in place. Step 3 - CHECK YOUR COIL - always check at various stages throughout the process for shorts and to make sure your resistance is where you want it. If you're careful, you can heat the coil and squeeze it with tweezers at this stage to tighten up any gaps. Never touch the coil when the power is on, and be super careful not to move it away from the feeder hole. Check your alignment with your pokey device if you do tighten it here. Perfect! Step 4 - get some cotton. Just a small pinch is always too much. See how sparse it is in the picture below - this will be just right. Roll it in your fingers, one end should be as tight as possible and the other slightly looser. Step 5 - thread it through the coil, top to bottom. Use some tweezers to catch it out of the hole if you need to, but if it's rolled right it should be ok. Pull it further than it needs to go, making sure there is excess on both ends. Gently untwist the cotton a little - it shouldn't be too tight or it won't wick as well as it can. Step 6 - trim the wick so the bottom sits at the base of the tank, and the top is just above the positive post. Sharp scissors needed! In true Blue Peter style, ask an adult to help if you need to Step 7 - fill the tank to about three quarters the way up (I've slightly overfilled it here). It will start to wick immediately, but always add some drops to the wick at the top around the coil. Step 8 - put the cover on. Make sure the air hole is near the coil, but not directly over it. Step 9 - now you just tilt to saturate the wick...
...and vape! There's no need to tilt every time, but when the wick starts to dry you must re-saturate it or it will burn the cotton. This tastes horrid, and if it burns to the coil you will need to completely rebuild the beast to get rid of the bitterness. Always tilt and let it saturate if you're picking it up for the first time in a few hours. The coil will last for ages, so you can just rewick and dry burn every couple of tanks or when you change juice.
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catfish
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Post by catfish on Mar 4, 2014 17:34:36 GMT
Thank you so much I have bookmarked this page for when my Rsst turns up.
A big thumbs up
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vigowomble
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Post by vigowomble on Mar 4, 2014 17:36:02 GMT
Very informative ionian, thanks. Doubt I'll be trying this anytime soon, but a couple of questions for you. Do you not need to heat the coil up with a blowtorch once you've wound it? and what is kicked or unkicked? Cheers
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ionian
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Post by ionian on Mar 4, 2014 18:05:32 GMT
Glad it's helpful catfish. vigowomble - you heat the coil with a blowtorch while squeezing to tighten the coil, and to burn off any impurities from the wire. I haven't included that here because it's really a part of the coil building process, covered in other guides. So to answer your question, yes, you should heat the coil once it's built, especially if the coils aren't tight and together. A kick is a little piece of electronics that sits on top of the battery in a mechanical mod and turns it into a regulated device. You set the watts (like you would on a MVP for example) using a small potentiometer. It allows you to have the aesthetics and small size of a mech mod without the voltage drop as the battery drains. www.vapegear.co.uk/product/kickMany mech purists would say they aren't necessary, because if you build your coil at the right ohms you can have a good vape for the life of the battery, but I prefer to use one when out and about so I don't have to faff around changing batteries to get a constant vape.
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smarties
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Post by smarties on Mar 4, 2014 18:44:30 GMT
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wolfvape
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Waiting for my new kit to arrive and looking forward to the new generation vape!
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Post by wolfvape on Mar 4, 2014 21:08:28 GMT
Blimey - that is impressive / so out of my knowledge zone / not going to happen in this Wolfspace any time soon but I just felt I had to post to say *bowing down in admiration* smiley!!
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ionian
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Post by ionian on Mar 4, 2014 21:41:40 GMT
Blimey - that is impressive / so out of my knowledge zone / not going to happen in this Wolfspace any time soon but I just felt I had to post to say *bowing down in admiration* smiley!! Honestly, if you'd said to me in November that I would vaping on rebuildables I would have thought you were crazy. But as an ex rollie smoker I like the building and tinkering, and it just takes a little practice. I promise it's not that complicated once you've made a few - it took me 15 minutes to build this set up (including taking pics). It took much longer to write it all down of course...
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vigowomble
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Post by vigowomble on Mar 4, 2014 21:45:18 GMT
Thanks for the detailed answers ionian. Can't wait to start doing rebuildables, but I will because I'm skint
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wolfvape
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Post by wolfvape on Mar 5, 2014 20:18:03 GMT
Give me a couple of months, then I'll be on the old PM to you!! ionian
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